Suburban Water Heater Thermostat Replacement

[Cholla_Bob]

The 120V Tstat/switch electric thermostat on my 10 gallon Suburban needs to be replaced as it is confirmed blown. Is there a 130/140 degree Rheems or Camco household equivalent thermostat for a 1500 watt Camco coil? It would be great to start buying thermostats at the local hardware than driving 60 miles to get the Suburban 520788 120V switches at premium cost. Water heater is hooked up to non-mobile 120V household electric. Thanks!

[Old-Biscuit]

j-d wrote:
Congratulations! Glad you have it working. Sounds to me you did a good job finding the problem, getting the right part and up and running in one try.

I don't think anything will protect against the element burning out if we don't have enough water in the tank. What's way worse is the "standing pilot" LPG models. At least in Atwood, the high limit of the thermostat in the Gas Control is called ECO (Energy Cut Off) is a One-Time setup. Ever overheat that, like with a dry tank, and it needs an expensive new Control to get it going again.

Suburban pilot flame models have same one-time ECO probe.
As with Atwood.....it is an integral part of gas control valve and requires complete replacement if it trips (190*F)

[Cholla_Bob]

Thanks for all the help! Yes, the biggest problem out here is if the incoming water line to the hot water heater freezes up and the hot water gets drained through use: without any incoming water to heat, that electric coil will burn up real quick. Changing a coil in the middle of a storm is no fun. Good to hear a no-reset situation is good news. Appreciate all your advise.

[j-d]

Congratulations! Glad you have it working. Sounds to me you did a good job finding the problem, getting the right part and up and running in one try.

I don't think anything will protect against the element burning out if we don't have enough water in the tank. What's way worse is the "standing pilot" LPG models. At least in Atwood, the high limit of the thermostat in the Gas Control is called ECO (Energy Cut Off) is a One-Time setup. Ever overheat that, like with a dry tank, and it needs an expensive new Control to get it going again.

[Old-Biscuit]

Cholla Bob wrote:
I drove the 60 miles and bought the Suburban 232306 thermostat. Realized the small thermostat niche had a screw in the center and that I would have to engineer to make the Rheems, Camco, or Everbilt thermostat fit. dougrainer's comment above captures the problem. As it was starting to storm here; I went with the Suburban. These other hardware store thermostats have a 170 degree limit, not 150 as I had been previously told. Also a reset and variable temp control for under ten bucks. All the single element electric hot water tanks are 120V wired to a thermostat to an electric coil with a pressure valve; basically all the same; however, the Suburban thermostat was the easiest to install, so I went with it. Thanks for all the help on this one: I have hot water again just before it started snowing.

Old-Biscuit got the problem: the coil side hot out of the thermostat burned up because the thermostat compartment insulation got wet and shorted with the tank. Important to tighten the cover screws good and I am now sealing with silicone.

PS: For ten years, the Suburban reset button has never worked once. Hope everyone else has had better luck with that.

The RESET should NEVER need to be pushed (reset) unless the HIGH temp t-stat has operated (OPENED)
IT only should open when the normal t-stat has FAILED
10 years and NOT having to reset is GREAT. Means system has been functioning properly ie: Normal t-stat Opening/Closing as designed controlling heating of water
Hight temp is a BACKUP Safety.....to shutdown system and prevent dangerous high temp conditions

[Cholla_Bob]

I drove the 60 miles and bought the Suburban 232306 thermostat. Realized the small thermostat niche had a screw in the center and that I would have to engineer to make the Rheems, Camco, or Everbilt thermostat fit. dougrainer's comment above captures the problem. As it was starting to storm here; I went with the Suburban. These other hardware store thermostats have a 170 degree limit, not 150 as I had been previously told. Also a reset and variable temp control for under ten bucks. All the single element electric hot water tanks are 120V wired to a thermostat to an electric coil with a pressure valve; basically all the same; however, the Suburban thermostat was the easiest to install, so I went with it. Thanks for all the help on this one: I have hot water again just before it started snowing.

Old-Biscuit got the problem: the coil side hot out of the thermostat burned up because the thermostat compartment insulation got wet and shorted with the tank. Important to tighten the cover screws good and I am now sealing with silicone.

PS: For ten years, the Suburban reset button has never worked once. Hope everyone else has had better luck with that.

[Old-Biscuit]

Suburban t-stat sets (120V AC and 12V DC) have a 'manual' reset so that owner has to investigate and reset it when tripped. No 'fault light' indication when HI Temp t-stat trips.

Atwood ECO (Energy Cut Off---HI Temp) 'auto' resets when temp drops below 150*F BUT triggers 'Fault Light' and no reheating can occur until reset by owner.

All OEM T-stats are 'snap disc' FIXED temp.
Atwood does have an 'Optional' adjustable t-stat (110*-150*F) to replace normal temp t-stat (140*F) ECO remains same.


The HI Temp t-stats should only OPEN when the normal t-stat has failed to shut-down heating -----so if they have operated then t-stats s/b replaced.

High amp flow thru connecting wire between HI and Normal on Suburban will burn wire into. SO if that has occurred then wiring/element s/b checked for shorts

[j-d]

Doug, Thanks for explaining that! I just had the t'stat cover off of our SW6DE, and I must've missed the "pusher" on the high limit t'stat.

[dougrainer]

Cholla Bob wrote:
I called Rheem tech and their Rheem Protech Marathon thermostat will directly replace the Suburban, has a lower hi-limit safety (150 than 180); has variable temperature control; and is way less expensive. Probably a more durable thermostat. Sounds like a good way to go.

I looked at the Rheem tstats. Unless there is a Tstat NOT listed, HOW are you going to MOUNT a Rheem where the Suburban tstat goes?????? Besides, Don't you think Suburban has a REASON they have the hi limit of 180 degrees, instead of 150????? Can you post the Rheem tstat Part Number? Doug

[dougrainer]

j-d wrote:
Went back and looked at the Amazon link and a reviewer says that one's a 150*. But the little "knob" makes me wonder if it's adjustable... The numbers OB posted are for a 130* standard and 140* optional. Decision where to go or wait for an order, might need to be based on the temp you want.

I think it was OB, posted a pic with that solid wire connecting the two t'stats burnt through.

That is NOT a knob. That is the resettable overload button. Doug

[Cholla_Bob]

I may currently have the Suburban # 232317 as Old-Biscuit listed, as the last thermostat I replaced was rated for 140 degrees. The #520788 is the most expensive and gets online ratings differing from 120 to 150 degrees: I don't think its a variable, but it may be!

[Cholla_Bob]

I called Rheem tech and their Rheem Protech Marathon thermostat will directly replace the Suburban, has a lower hi-limit safety (150 than 180); has variable temperature control; and is way less expensive. Probably a more durable thermostat. Sounds like a good way to go.

[j-d]

Went back and looked at the Amazon link and a reviewer says that one's a 150*. But the little "knob" makes me wonder if it's adjustable... The numbers OB posted are for a 130* standard and 140* optional. Decision where to go or wait for an order, might need to be based on the temp you want.

I think it was OB, posted a pic with that solid wire connecting the two t'stats burnt through.

[Cholla_Bob]

The current Suburban thermostat is black with the element wire burnt in half. No doubt this is the problem. House fuse box switch was still active - not thrown. There had been contact with a small piece of fiberglass insulation.

Probably easiest to take the 60 mile drive today and get a new Suburban; however, I may call Rheems tech; as j-d said, this is a simple circuit. There should be a Rheems equivalent-some with variable temperature controls. I would imagine this is what cpaulsen is purchasing at Home Depot and Lowes.

I have replaced the heating element several times now with a hardware store Camco 1500W, as our hard water seems to be the cause of element failure. Definitely the thermostat this time, but never have seen a burnt up one.

Thanks for the help!!!

[cpaulsen]

I have almost got my replacement thermostats from Lowes/Home Depot or Ace