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Sulfur Smell from Water Heater - Please Help!

SnugBugs
Explorer
Explorer
So, we are getting our 2006 Winnebago Outlook 326A ready for an extended journey, and are encountering the sulfur smell coming out of the water heater (apparently caused by bacteria proliferating in water left in the heater while it was stored...yay!). We have already done a bleach flush of the heater (dump old water from heater through drain, add dilute of bleach to fresh tank, run hot taps until bleach water fills heater, wait overnight, blow out heater water through heater drain, flush whole system with fresh water), and though it did take the stank down from a 10 to about a 3, it's still there. We have a camphost position starting in 2 weeks and need to have hot water! Can anyone assist us who can offer advice we can count on? We don't have time to experiment, unfortunately, we just need it fixed.

Water heater is an Atwood.

Thank you, O great ones, please share your wisdom with us newbies so we may not stink of old eggs...
21 REPLIES 21

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
j-d wrote:
Our OEM magnesium anodes look about like OB's picture after two seasons. When we first got the RV the anode rod looked like a coat hanger with a little goop on it and the WH itself needed a good flushing. I used one of those wands like pictured above.
Now, as I said above, two seasons and the rod looks like the photo, so I see no need to go to the aluminum ones.
The Suburban-branded one is a couple dollars more than the generic and results have been so good that I don't want to change products. Never an odor.
RV before this one had Atwood with the aluminum tank and again, no odor. All I ever did was flush it, and rarely at that.


Good water source therefore no stink.
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
Our OEM magnesium anodes look about like OB's picture after two seasons. When we first got the RV the anode rod looked like a coat hanger with a little goop on it and the WH itself needed a good flushing. I used one of those wands like pictured above.
Now, as I said above, two seasons and the rod looks like the photo, so I see no need to go to the aluminum ones.
The Suburban-branded one is a couple dollars more than the generic and results have been so good that I don't want to change products. Never an odor.
RV before this one had Atwood with the aluminum tank and again, no odor. All I ever did was flush it, and rarely at that.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
kevden wrote:
I did not know there were different types of anode rods, ours is due for replacement, I will look into the zinc. Ours gets stinky if left for a few weeks without use, but leaving a faucet open for 5 minutes has been enough to flush it out.


Pros/cons for the two types of RV anode Rods available

Magnesium anodes produce a stronger current making them more effective at keeping the water tank from corroding.
Magnesium may react with bacteria causing a sulfurous smell.

Aluminum rods donโ€™t have this problem as often.
Aluminum rods collect a buildup of corrosive materials that harden and make taking them out for inspection or replacement a challenge.

These are the 2 types available for Suburban RV water heaters.

No need to replace an anode rod until 75% of rod has deteriorated. That's what they are suppose to do.
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

kevden
Explorer
Explorer
I did not know there were different types of anode rods, ours is due for replacement, I will look into the zinc. Ours gets stinky if left for a few weeks without use, but leaving a faucet open for 5 minutes has been enough to flush it out.
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red31
Explorer
Explorer
Change the source of your water ๐Ÿ˜‰

Canadian_Rainbi
Explorer
Explorer
It also depends on how well your hot water tank is insulated and what the ambient temperature is where you are when you do the heat-cool cycles. We're in southern Mexico and if we turn the hot water off after doing the supper dishes in the evening, in the morning the water is still warm enough for a shower. It would take several days here.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
SnugBugs wrote:
Wow, thank you all so much for your help!

And yes, Old Biscuit, we have no anode as it is an aluminum tank (but thanks to you all regardless!). We are resigned to do the vinegar flush, as it seems necessary.

Can anyone clarify what the instructions mean by "allow the heater to cycle 4-5 times"? I do not know what that means, and it SEEMS important...also, how does one remove the pressure relief valve anyway? HELP!!!

(sorry for the drama, just had my morning coffee...)


Pressure relief valve is in outside compartment top center with lever on it.
It is screwed into the tank. It may be tough to break free.

'allow heater to cycle 4-5 times'......that means let it heat up & then cool down....repeat 4-5 times.
That will take several hours because you have to let it cool naturally not by running hot water out and cold water in.
So when ready to do the heat soak, turn it on and then 5 hours later start the draining/flushing process.
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

SnugBugs
Explorer
Explorer
Wow, thank you all so much for your help!

And yes, Old Biscuit, we have no anode as it is an aluminum tank (but thanks to you all regardless!). We are resigned to do the vinegar flush, as it seems necessary.

Can anyone clarify what the instructions mean by "allow the heater to cycle 4-5 times"? I do not know what that means, and it SEEMS important...also, how does one remove the pressure relief valve anyway? HELP!!!

(sorry for the drama, just had my morning coffee...)

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
It's an Atwood water heater.......there is NO anode rod.

They have flushed it after the bleach job.

It still stinks.

They need to do the vinegar soak as recommended by Atwood to remove the smell.
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

BruceMc
Explorer III
Explorer III
We are on well water; our new home WH had the sulpher smell after a few days, we discussed it with the business where we purchased the WH, they replied - replace the anode rod with a new one made from zinc, as "Zinc don't stink"! Never had an issue since then.

I've never had to look for a zinc rod for the RV WH. Our current MH has no anode rod as the tank is made of aluminum. The fiver had one, I installed a new anode but never had a problem with the smell.
2016 Forest River Sunseeker 2250SLEC Chevrolet 6.0L

msiminoff
Explorer II
Explorer II
As others have mentioned, the sulphur smell is a result of the anode rod. Anaerobic bacteria in the tank reacts with the aluminum and/or magnesium from the anode and creates hydrogen sulfide gas (that's the sulphur smell).

I suggest that you drain the water heater, replace the anode with "combo anode" that is made from aluminum & zinc. Then add a bottle of hydrogen peroxide (just as effective and much safer than chlorine bleach) to the heater tank, fill with water, and allow it to sit for a few hours. Then flush another two times with fresh water and your you'll be odor free.

Cheers,
-Mark
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RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
I also get the same smell when my batteries are being boiled out... Might check the battery fluid levels as well...

Roy ken
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n7bsn
Explorer
Explorer
If you remove the Anode, replace it; or you will be replacing more then just the anode. It's there for a reason.
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When someone tells you to buy the same rig they own, listen, they might be right. When they tell you to buy a different rig then they own, really pay attention, they probably know something you don't.

ReneeG
Explorer
Explorer
Dusty R wrote:
Look for an aniod rod in the water heater, and remove it.

Dusty


We had the problem of the sulfur smell, so we checked our anode rod - nearly eaten away. Replaced it and no more smell.
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