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Take apart signal lite switch? - Hi beam on with right turn

Truck in sig, 2007 GMC Classic:

I have the most annoying issue with my signal light switch. When I flip it on to turn right, my high beams come on and of course I flash everyone in front of me. If I grab the lever, pull it towards me a bit, it stops. Totally frustrating...:M
Truck has 469,000 K on the odometer, almost broke in now!

This happens when the truck is cold, first started up and driving. Once the cab has been up to temperature, it typically stops.

Question is for you all, has anyone tried disassembling the signal light switch? Are there screws to take it apart? I like fixing stuff instead of replacing it.

I know I can buy a new one for a small fortune and just replace it, but I'd like to try fixing it. That's just how I work... I have to take the airbag out, steering wheel off, ignition switch out and more just to get at the blinkin thing.

I'll likely wind up buying a new one, I know, but just thought I'd ask.

What a lot of work and a total pain in the adams apple to change the switch out.
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ Dmax/Allison - 2007 Pacific Coachworks Tango 306RLSS
RV Rebuild Website - Site launched Aug 22, 2021 - www.rv-rebuild.com
11 REPLIES 11

Chum_lee
Explorer
Explorer
BobsYourUncle wrote:
Truck in sig, 2007 GMC Classic:

I have the most annoying issue with my signal light switch.

Question is for you all, has anyone tried disassembling the signal light switch? Are there screws to take it apart? I like fixing stuff instead of replacing it.

I know I can buy a new one for a small fortune and just replace it, but I'd like to try fixing it.

I'll likely wind up buying a new one, I know, but just thought I'd ask.



I've done the same thing for years with good results, but with German cars which generally have Bosch, Siemens, Hella, etc. electricals so I haven't done much (anything) with AC/Delco headlight switches. AC/Delco programmer motors, . . . yes. All you can do is remove the switch and see how it was manufactured/assembled. Usually it will be with snaps, rivets, tabs, screws, glue, heat bonding, or any combination. If your problem is with dirty/worn internal contacts, often it is repairable with cleaning/resurfacing, then reassembly. If the problem is with ratcheting assemblies/gears/cams/bushings, etc., often they break or just wear out. Finding/fabricating replacement parts can be difficult and generally not worth your time. If air bag equipped, use caution. (for obvious reasons)

Good luck with it. Be aware: Many new electrical parts that show evidence of previous installation are not returnable for credit. IMO, you're definitely about to learn something. (that's a good thing)

Chum lee

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
For Non Functioning take it apart clean it up ,
This sounds like worn out allowing contacts for different functions that should not touch, to connect,
Although it could be worn wires touching in the steering column harness
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
For Non Functioning take it apart clean it up ,
This sounds like worn out allowing contacts for different functions that should not touch, to connect,
Although it could be worn wires touching in the steering column harness
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
I would start by using some contact cleaner. Amsoil makes a nice one. Don't use WD-40.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

StirCrazy
Nomad III
Nomad III
BobsYourUncle wrote:

70 bucks for OEM is decent. I found it to be a lot more than that through some GM wholesale suppliers.
I am leery of stuff on Amazon - mostly China junk. Even something labeled as genuine GM could be a ripoff part, made to look genuine.



ya GM is like ford and puts a 400% markup on all their parts. if you don't want to get it off amazon then look at places like, bumper to bumper, and such. amazon isn't bad you have to look at the brand, seller, and reviews to filter out the junk.
2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK
1991 Slumberqueen WS100

Thanks for the input. 🙂
It's not that I can't afford a new one, for me it's the satisfaction factor of fixing something.
70 bucks for OEM is decent. I found it to be a lot more than that through some GM wholesale suppliers.
I am leery of stuff on Amazon - mostly China junk. Even something labeled as genuine GM could be a ripoff part, made to look genuine.

It is a big pile of work getting the thing out of there - airbag is easy, it's the rest of the stuff that has to come off just to get at the screws holding the switch on.

Grit dog -
"If you’re curious and have time, rip ‘er apart and see what you can figure out. Maybe a Wrigleys gum wrapper and a dab of JB weld can fix it. "
Yeah you're speaking my language!

I'll have a new OEM on hand when I take it apart. If a simple fix I can always return it.
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ Dmax/Allison - 2007 Pacific Coachworks Tango 306RLSS
RV Rebuild Website - Site launched Aug 22, 2021 - www.rv-rebuild.com

Krusty
Nomad
Nomad
I took the multifunction switch on my old F250 apart and fixed it years ago. Needed the contacts cleaned up. Still working good. Wasn't a bad job. Lots of little springs in there you have to keep an eye on when it comes apart. They can travel pretty fast.
Krusty
92 F-250 4x4 460 5spd 4.10LS Prodigy
97 Rustler RT190
EU2000i
Garmin

StirCrazy
Nomad III
Nomad III
Grit dog wrote:
^This.
To be fair though, the quality of the cheapo ones is, well, suspect.
Something that if going through all the effort to replace, and hoping for a long term service life, is worth going OE or at least known quality aftermarket.

If you’re curious and have time, rip ‘er apart and see what you can figure out. Maybe a Wrigleys gum wrapper and a dab of JB weld can fix it.


that price ws for a ac delco replacement, not a generic el cheepo as AC delco is the OEM manufacture.
2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK
1991 Slumberqueen WS100

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
^This.
To be fair though, the quality of the cheapo ones is, well, suspect.
Something that if going through all the effort to replace, and hoping for a long term service life, is worth going OE or at least known quality aftermarket.

If you’re curious and have time, rip ‘er apart and see what you can figure out. Maybe a Wrigleys gum wrapper and a dab of JB weld can fix it.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

StirCrazy
Nomad III
Nomad III
BobsYourUncle wrote:
Truck in sig, 2007 GMC Classic:

I have the most annoying issue with my signal light switch. When I flip it on to turn right, my high beams come on and of course I flash everyone in front of me. If I grab the lever, pull it towards me a bit, it stops. Totally frustrating...:M
Truck has 469,000 K on the odometer, almost broke in now!

This happens when the truck is cold, first started up and driving. Once the cab has been up to temperature, it typically stops.

Question is for you all, has anyone tried disassembling the signal light switch? Are there screws to take it apart? I like fixing stuff instead of replacing it.

I know I can buy a new one for a small fortune and just replace it, but I'd like to try fixing it. That's just how I work... I have to take the airbag out, steering wheel off, ignition switch out and more just to get at the blinkin thing.

I'll likely wind up buying a new one, I know, but just thought I'd ask.

What a lot of work and a total pain in the adams apple to change the switch out.


a new multifunction switch for a 2007 GMC 3500 is 70 bucks CDN from amazon.
2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK
1991 Slumberqueen WS100

QCMan
Nomad II
Nomad II
Most assemblies in vehicles are not repairable as they are riveted, welded or bonded together. Your signal switch seems to have done you well for the last 16 years and it is time to retire it and move on.
2020 Keystone Cougar 22RBS, Ram 1500, two Jacks and plenty of time to roam!
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. A.E.
Good Sam Life Member