The "Perfect" Battery Box Protective Paint

I used threaded rod and 1 inch angle iron to secure my 2 6 v CG batteries 10 years ago. 4 years ago I had to replace the angle iron because the acid pretty much ate it up. I used regular Rustoleum to paint it. The bed liner sounds like much better protection.

Oasisbob wrote:
That's great advice. I have to ask why we have a need on protecting a battery box? Mine are holding up ncely after fourteen years.. Different climate perhaps

Got a metal box?

Well, bedliner can do several things for you..

Protect from acid spills (and yes this covers sealed valve types since they can vent), road salt (Here in the northeast road salt eats everything it touches) and even can provide electrical insulation (ever swing a wrench into uninsulated metal with battery connected?)..

Once cured, bedliner does make a really tough surface which also will not be electrically conductive and is impervious to many chemical spills..

Heck, even the Mythbusters found it is virtually "bomb proof", attack dog proof and lots of other "proof" type things..

The question has come up a number of times on this forum. Some folks go 50 years and NEVER *need* auto insurance. Spill proof plastic is a great way to go, except for L-16's. My Rolls' steel shells have about 1/4" of cured tar inside.

Oasisbob wrote:
That's great advice. I have to ask why we have a need on protecting a battery box? Mine are holding up ncely after fourteen years.. Different climate perhaps

Or plastic...Portland gets plenty of rain and roads are treated with deicer in the winter.

That's great advice. I have to ask why we have a need on protecting a battery box? Mine are holding up ncely after fourteen years.. Different climate perhaps

I don't think I would recommend the Rust-O-Leum for doing a pickup truck bed, but it slops on plenty thick for a battery box, and two or three coats would be one thick coating. I like the sleazy no-work approach - no brushes, no sprayer. Shake the can and go for it. I painted the BORG with it. Damned tough coating, I'll say that for it...

Hammerite can be painted over lightly rusted metal and also meets the requirements listed above. Comes in a few color aside from black.

ClickyClicky

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
I wire brushed off the loose rust, and wiped it with a rag and it stuck like an Olongapo bar hostess to a sailor with an inch thick stack of wenties.

Don't get many Subic Bay references on here.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:

• Should be commonly available
• Should be spray paint for no cleanup
• Should be easy to apply - absolute minimum of prep needed
• Should stick to surfaces like crazy
• Should not be sticky or gummy like asphalt undercoating
• Should not clog the spray nozzleeasily
• Should dry hard as nails
• Extremely scuff resistant
• Reasonably priced

RUST-O-Leum BED LINER PAINT.

Available at Wal-Mart

Don't like black? You can paint over this stuff.

Three tablespoons of full strength battery acid on a test panel for a month and the Rust-O-Leum laughed st it.

X2 on "bedliner" paint..

However, the Rust-o-leum version is pretty darn watered down..

Take a can of it and shake it.. It will sound very sloppy and watery inside the can (non spray type)..

Go to Harbor Freight and try shaking one of their cans of bed liner.. No cheap sloppy sloshing sounds will be heard.. Goes on OK with roller or brush and supposedly can be applied via sprayer.. They do sell spray bombs of it at HF..

HF you can also use the 20%-25% off coupons also!

I wire brushed off the loose rust, and wiped it with a rag and it stuck like an Olongapo bar hostess to a sailor with an inch thick stack of wenties.