Tioga propane light blinks green, heater not functioning

[RV_Harvey1]

Greetings from an Autozone parking lot. I’m Harvey and I bought a nineteen foot 1998 Ford Tioga in pristine condition two weeks ago. In order to best explain the problem in full, I’ll need to start at the beginning. A day after I bought the vehicle the carbon monoxide detector started to intermittently beep occasionally in about 30 second intervals. I noticed it periodically during the week I spent planning for my big adventure, occasionally stepping in the vehicle and hearing the sound. When it was finally time to hit the road I went to turn on some lights but they would not go on. The short story with that is that the two Interstate GC2 house batteries had drained completely and could not even be resuscitated. So then I went out and bought two Interstate deep cycle GC2-ECL-UTL 6 volt batteries (an upgrade) on my way to my first state park. I turned the propane on via the Pre-Tell 2 LP Gas Detector, eventually noticing that, unlike before, the green light did not stop flashing, did not turn a solid green. But the lights now worked, and the stove worked, so I figured everything was OK. Cut to 2 days into my trip into the cold desert, and I gradually found that the heater would basically not work - it would blow cold/normal air, or occasionally blow hot air for a very short while, then turn cold. Also, the fridge/freezer seems to have a mind of its own, getting cold quickly or very slowly or not at all. Additionally the bathroom light stopped working altogether. Eventually I googled the issue of the flashing green light and… It signifies something to do with… the current/ flow/electricity not being properly conducted. I had the batteries tested and the AutoZone man says they’re in perfect health, along with the hood battery. Meanwhile, all the electrical functions in this RV worked fine until the old batteries died and were replaced - so are somehow these deep cycle batteries the wrong fit for this rig?? Incidentally, regarding the carbon monoxide alarm, I’ve had to wonder whether it was actually broken or was just responding to a dying battery (it lights up green, but I’ve actually tested it using the tester button, and it doesn’t work - but it’s no longer broken in the sense of intermittently beeping). I am providing all of this information because basically I can’t figure out why the green light doesn’t stop flashing, and I associate the flashing with all the mentioned problems I’m having with the appliances. Because apparently the propane is not getting the proper signal/electricity/current/flow. Although I am also confused with how the heater actually works - I thought it ran on propane, but even when I turn the propane off, when I turn the heater on via the Coleman Mach controls, the air still turns on (although almost never hot, as mentioned).

So, I need help in solving the flashing green light issue. I’ve cleaned and tightened the various terminals associated with the house battery, and also removed and reinserted certain fuses, checked the hood battery (it’s fine) but no luck. Mr. Goodly AutoZone Man also took a good long look, but couldn’t uncover the issue. He recommended I get on this forum so here I am. Any help would be much appreciated.

[RV_Harvey1]

QC, haha, yes, I could conceivably be in this parking lot for the rest of my days with present luck and stingy mindset. Fortunately I am maybe a half step ahead of you; depending on how you count. I found an RV repair place 3,3 miles from my present parking space aside a Home Depot. I’m not saying I will fork over my credit card to whatever charge they first estimate for me, and I’m hoping some free or nearly free advice might solve things in a pinch (but more likely my wallet will feel some kind of pinch), but given what I’ve gathered through hard knocks and all y’all responses, this is more mysterious and uneasily diagnosable than originally thought. And yeah, if they fix it so I have heat them a new CO alarm is in tall order (can make do with a $50 screw-in alarm such as for houses, yeah?, or do I need special built-in version?). Anyhow, thank you much for taking the time to try and help (and you have helped). Much appreciated and happy holidays and stay safe!

[QCMan]

This is no time for electric 101. Sounds like you need a mobil rv tech or you will become a fixture in that parking lot. There is a time for learning and a time for pros. Now is pro time! Not caring about a C0 alarm puts you in a very dangerous position. You need to rethink your position on that.

[RV_Harvey1]

Yes, alarm is broke but this is not my concern now. Am presently stalled in my adventure stick in a big box parking lot unable to go into the mountains because it is too cold without the heat working properly.
Yes stove works fine, as does water pump, house lights & fan.
“Have you tested for 12 volts at any of the affected items? No, can you please tell
me how to do that? Also I’m not exactly clear how the information could help me. Whether or not it produces the right readings or not, the issues will still persist, which again, have to do with not receiving the proper current. As indicated by the flashing green light. Unless all my understandings of the situation thus far are flawed and full of holes.

[QCMan]

" Incidentally, regarding the carbon monoxide alarm, I’ve had to wonder whether it was actually broken or was just responding to a dying battery (it lights up green, but I’ve actually tested it using the tester button, and it doesn’t work - but it’s no longer broken in the sense of intermittently beeping)."
To me that statement makes me think you tested it and it didn't work. It should sound out loud if it is working. Pull it out and look at the back where it will have manufacturing date and lifespan. Molded into the front or on a label on the back it will have a reference to the flashing codes it can use.have you tested for 12 volts at any of the affected items? The stove typically requires no 12 volt power so it will work as long as it has propane. Keep in mind that a 23 year old unit could have lots of issues no matter how good it looks. Brand new high end units have flaws!
Might be time to go over the entire unit checking connections. A pristine unit may have had very little use which can be worse for some systems than heavy use.

[RV_Harvey1]

Just saw your reply, Ed, after replying to Gene. Interesting - I have been uncertain of if the failing house batteries caused the monoxide alarm to misfire, or if the failing alarm drained the batteries to zilch. Pretty sure it was the later. The alarm lights up since putting the new batteries in, but the test button produces not a sound. But anyway, the carbon monoxide alarm is not my concern right now. It’s getting the LP propane detector to stop blinking green.

[RV_Harvey1]

Hey guys, sorry - I have probably confused the issue/situation here. Or maybe, Gene, you got confused all by yourself. Or maybe I’m the one especially confused. Indeed “more than one issue”. My main issue is that the LP Gas detector is blinking green instead of a solid light; and this is causing problems and some havoc with heater/fridge/bathroom lights. Separately: there is carbon monoxide detector that died and took down the old house batteries with it. I am much less concerned with that alarm at the moment, Although I agree I need to get it replaced!

[mr__ed]

I agree that a failing coach battery can cause issues with the CO detector. The detector in my fifth wheel was also giving problems . There were 2 batteries in my unit, two 12 volt wired in parallel. One became defective. Replacing it solved the CO detector problem.

[OkieGene]

I think you have more than one issue, I mean separate issues, not related to each other.

Carbon Monoxide detectors have roughly a 10 year life span, smoke detectors also have a limited life span. They do wear out, they go bad, they are meant to be replaced. Take yours off and look at it, it may have an original date or an expiration date. While you have it off, throw it away and install a new one.

I'll stay out of the electrical and propane issues, others are probably more able to advise you on that. My advice would be for you to call a good reputation mobil rv tech to come out and diagnose your electrical and propane problem.

Good luck to you.

[RV_Harvey1]

Thanks for the reply. I would guess the CO detector is the original. I did not state that “it will not test successfully”. Maybe this is true, but my understanding is that it is working as it should, but that it is not successfully receiving the right connection that would flip it from blinking green to solid green. Do you disagree with that assessment? As to the idea that it needs replacing, I guess it s a possibility but what I find strange is that it was working perfectly until I installed the new batteries. Mere coincidence? So maybe it still IS working, and the trouble lies in something to do with either the new batteries or the connections. Yet this isn’t rocket science and the batteries are deemed good and the connections appear solid and just as before.

The original/previous batteries were two linked 6 volts. Same as these.

[QCMan]

If the C0 detector is original, I would say it needs replacing as you state that it will not test successfully. As for the rest, did you hook up the batteries the same way the originals were? If you did then you are trying to run things on 6 volts instead of 12 volts as the originals were wired in parallel to maintain 12 volts and if you hooked up the new batteries the same way you only have 6 volts. You need to hook up the new batteries in series to get 12 volts. That will probably fix all your problems. Keep us posted.