PART #1 OF 8Howdy. I'm not an RV expert, but recently I researched 12 volt freshwater pumps in DETAIL to replace my Fleetwood trailer’s original 2007 Shurflow pump that finally expired. My porous skull absorbed enough info that I thought I'd share it in the hopes that others might benefit, definitely the LONG version here. The pump info below relates to small, medium and many larger RVs, but you might consult an expert if you own a mega beast, a complex water system, a high filtration or reverse-osmosis system. RV experts, feel free to correct any errant info here. Skip to “Just Pick a Pump” (Part 5) below for a quick pump recommendation.These eight posts relate to "standard" 3 gpm pumps. If you're replacing a "single fixture" 1 gpm pump in a small RV, see the later follow-up post as well as the general details below.An RV's water pump pressurizes water from the freshwater tank, allowing you to use the various water fixtures in the rig including the sink, shower and toilet. Leaks, excessive noise or poor performance are all reasons to consider replacing an old water pump, but causes can also be unrelated to the pump itself. To check your water pump (a generalized test), turn on your kitchen sink faucet to a minimal water flow. If the water pump cycles and its “off-time” is two seconds or longer, it’s operating correctly. Sometimes when the water flow is restricted, a water pump will resort to a “rapid cycle.” This means the cycling will cut on or off in less than two seconds. If this happens during your test, check the pump owner’s manual to see if you can make any adjustments. If not, you may need a different pump or an RV accumulator tank (see below).

PART #2 OF 8IS THE HYDRO-OBLITERATOR PUMP THE PROPER REPLACEMENT FOR MY OLD MEGA-WATERSLAYER PUMP?That's a common question on websites, although more likely mentioning other pump brands. The answer is generally yes. Common aftermarket pumps are generally meant to be fairly universal replacements for OEM, and they all typically have the same plastic 1/2 inch x 14 MNPT (National Pipe Taper - male - 14 threads per inch) inlet/outlet like your OEM pump. (Note that the similar, but metallic, 1/2" fittings at Home Depot/Lowes may not have the same threads as the universal plastic connectors that come with new pumps, the latter available online via a search of "Shurflo NPT." But the "SharkBite" connectors at hardware stores MAY work.) So you just need to ensure that your replacement pump has similar GPM flow (gal per min), comparable PSI pressure (pounds per square inch), and a compatible electrical fuse amperage. Compare the spec label on your OEM pump to the specs for a replacement, and also check your RV fuse box pump amperage as well. If your current pump is not original, don't assume the installer made the right pump choice. There may be a date of manufacture on your pump label that jives with your RV's model year, ensuring it’s OEM.HOW MUCH FLOW?Simply mimicking your OEM pump's specs is fine since you're deferring to the RV manufacturer. Otherwise Flojet suggests 1 GPM per water fixture (sink, shower, toilet, washer, etc.) under simultaneous use. If you just anticipate a sink and toilet operating at the same time, then a 2 GPM pump may suffice, although a higher flow pump won't be harmful, you simply won't fully utilize its capabilities. Flojet states that 1/2" barbed hose fittings (and therefore the entire water system) can flow up to 4.0 gpm. For yet more flow, one would presumably need to upgrade to 3/4" hose, with fittings that max out at 7.0 gpm, or eliminate all constricting "insertion" fittings such as barbed connectors, which all these flow numbers are based on. Lastly, 2.1 gpm max for 3/8" fittings. Being the smallest diameter part of the hose system, fittings are the limiting factor in regards to flow other than pump gpm rating.

PART #3 OF 8HOW MUCH PRESSURE?Prior to roughly 2000 many RVs used gray color polybutylene pipe, but it proved vulnerable to chlorine disinfectant in tap water. Since then the great majority of modern RVs now use durable PEX polyethylene piping, typically white, red or blue in color with a minimum 30 year lifespan and decent expansion to resist freezing damage. PEX is rated to 160 psi at 73 F (room temp) and 100 psi at 180 F (hot water). The actual burst point is closer to 400 psi for PEX in new condition. Since most pumps operate in the 30 to 55 psi range, your PEX plumbing is designed to withstand at least TWICE the pump pressure, a decent safety margin. Moving from a 45 psi OEM pump to a 55 psi aftermarket pump, for example, should generally not cause leaks or other problems, and is commonly done. Experts nonetheless suggest limiting pump pressure to 60 psi or less unless you have a need to go higher. The water fixtures in your RV have pressure limits as well, so it's not just about the pipe and fittings.PUMP AMPERAGE Flow (gpm) is more important than pressure (psi) for most RVs, especially with multiple water fixtures in simultaneous use. But pump amperage draw is largely dictated by flow. So going big on a pump flow rating can potentially overtax your pump's electrical circuit, and there's no need for a little teardrop trailer to have a 7 gpm mega-pump. As an example, Everflo pump max gpm/max amps draw for six of their pump models: 1.0 gpm/4.0 max amps, 2.2/8.0, 3.0/10.0, 4.0/13.0, 5.5/17.0, 7.0/23.0. (Their 3 gpm pump uses a max 10 amps, for example.) Notice how with these pumps if you double the flow (first number), you almost double the amperage (second number). I believe that many RVs come with 10 amp pump fuses/circuits, so you can see how going much above 3 gpm starts to become problematic. Therefore you might limit your choice of pump gpm to only what’s needed. And Flojet suggests 3 gpm equals three RV water fixtures in simultaneous use, and how many people exceed that? Note that other pump brands can have very different numbers than those above.

PART #4 OF 8MADE IN CHINAThere's so many pumps to choose from, my poor German Shepherd suffered heart palpitations when I subcontracted the online research to him. Personally I'd avoid the weird Chinese brands on sites like Amazon – they have little or no brand name to protect. That said, Made in China is NOT the bugaboo many think it is since many Fortune 1000 firms manufacture premium products in their Chinese plants. The Uniroyal tires I put on my VW were made by Michelin in their Chinese plant, and were absolutely the equal of any Michelin tire made in their U.S. plants. Corporate and ISO quality standards/audits help ensure that. On the other hand, a water pump engineered AND made AND sold by a Chinese firm, well that's problematic for me. Bottom line: You're NOT buying a country of manufacture. You're buying a brand name, or lack of same, and everything that brand name represents. Made in China is NOT a quality problem – it's WHO makes it in China that matters. Fortune 1000 firms routinely make first-rate products in their Chinese plants. But Chinese companies? Well, typically not so much...SO WHICH PUMP?So what brand and pump model to buy? There's lovers and haters for every pump model available, and you can wade into that deep end of the pool if you like via the Amazon buyer reviews. Rather than a subjective "Best water pump" thread, I'll stick to generalities here and comment on several U.S. brands and the reliability that suggests. (Sorry, Seaflo, a Chinese firm.)Pumps I would suggest considering, in random order, include the Lippert Flow Max, the Valterra HydroMax (both Lippert and Valterra are large OEM parts suppliers to the RV industry), Shurflo pumps (various part numbers), and Flojet pumps (various). These are all established U.S. brands with generally good reputations. There’s a few other U.S. brands as well, but they’re less common.

PART #5 OF 8JUST PICK ONE FOR DOG'S SAKEIf you're ultimately confused or overwhelmed by the choices, I might simply recommend either a Valterra or Lippert pump, both good choices. Not because they're better than the competition – they're likely not – but simply because both firms offer only a single, one-size-fits-all, semi-universal 12 volt RV/boat pump. So an easy choice! The Shurflo and Flojet pumps are good too, and they both offer various pump models. Choosing from these four below based on lowest price is not a bad approach. If you're into preventive repairs and stumble across a fire sale price in an Ebay auction, and your pump is 10 years old, you might consider a PREVENTIVE replacement so a future vacation isn't ruined. Feel free to disagree – that's admittedly a subjective idea from me, and my Shurflo did last a long 16 years. Regarding the data below, note that pump labels and manufacturers' literature sometimes have modestly conflicting data, especially regarding psi and RV fuse amperage. I suggest using the pump motor label as the "bible."VALTERRA HYDROMAX-One pump model offered-3.0 gpm flow -55 psi max pressure-7.5 amps max draw-10 amps or higher RV pump fuse required-Bypass valve to reduce cycling and pulsation-Plumbing strainer and connectors provided-Can run dry without damage-2 year warranty LIPPERT FLOW MAX-One pump model offered, although specs can modestly vary-3.0 gpm flow -50 psi max pressure-8 to 9.5 amps max draw-10 amps or higher RV pump fuse required-Note that Lippert variation #DS-01230-D2 may state a 15 amp fuse, deferring to an unstated electrical code. But all Lippert pumps appear to use no more than 9.5 amps, and many of their 9.5 amp pumps explicitly call for a 10 amp RV fuse. Therefore it appears that ANY Lippert pump can likely get by with a common 10 amp RV fuse, even if it says “15 amp fuse” on the pump label. -Plumbing strainer and connectors provided-5/10 minute duty cycle – 5 min full flow, 10 min cooldown (see below) -Designed to survive freezing -Can run dry without damage-2 year warranty FLOJET-Several pump models available-Pump #R3526144D (or #03526-144) is popular-2.9 gpm flow -50 psi max pressure-5.2 to 7.5 amps max draw-10 amps or higher RV pump fuse required-Bypass valve to reduce cycling and pulsation-Plumbing strainer and connectors provided, proprietary o-ring style-Unique 58 mm x 81 mm mounting hole spacing-Can run dry without damage-2 year warranty SHURFLO-Several pump models available-Pump #4008-101-A65 is popular-A65 suffix is OEM, E65 suffix is aftermarket, same pump-3.0 gpm flow-55 psi max pressure-7.5 amps max draw-10 amps or higher RV pump fuse required-Bypass valve to reduce cycling and pulsation-No plumbing strainer or connectors provided, so extra $$, search online for “Shurflo NPT”-Can mount in any position including motor down-Can run dry without damage-2 year warranty

PART #6 OF 8SOME PUMPALICIOUS NOTESIn addition to the mainstream pumps above, there’s beefier and pricier pumps available such as the Jabsco and Remco brands, often used on boats but applicable for RVs as well. (Trivia: Boats can be thought of as waterborne motorhomes and they share many components. But boat components and installations tend to be more robust than RVs, and for a simple reason. If stuck on the highway outside Yellowstone you can call AAA for help. But a boat component failing 100 miles from shore in a squall is much more serious.) Unlike other brands, Shurflos generally don't come with a strainer (it’s just a debris strainer, not a true filter) or selection of connector fittings, so you may need to reuse your old fittings if possible or buy those separately, about $8 each online via universal “Shurflo NPT” fittings you can use with almost any brand of pump (fittings generally not found in Home Depot and Lowes stores). And Flojets have unique proprietary fittings with internal o-rings (similar to BMW cooling systems), although that won't be a complication for most people – they'll hook right up to your current plumbing. The Lippert pump has a 5/10 duty cycle. That means you can substantially flow water through it for a continuous 5 minutes, but then need to let it rest and cool down for 10 minutes before resuming water use. For most folks I suspect that would only be an issue if showering, unless you have a mega RV. RV pumps are generally engineered for intermittent use rather than continuous use like industrial pumps. They'll get hot if overtaxed, and may shut off until cooled sufficiently to automatically reset via their thermal sensor (180 F overheat shutoff temp for Remco, for example). And should you see a little water leak from your pump right out of the box, rather than a "used pump" scenario, that's likely just from post-assembly factory pump testing. Some people freak out about that water, assuming “used, returned, resold,” and it shows up in Amazon negative reviews.

Tips for Choosing a 12V Replacement Water Pump | Good Sam Community

TCBear
Explorer
Oct 18, 2023
ONLINE RV WATER PUMP OPERATION MANUALS

LIPPERT
https://support.lci1.com/flow-max

VALTERRA
https://www.valterra.com/downloads/

FLOJET
https://www.xylem.com/en-us/brands/flojet/flojet-products/rv-water-system-pump-series/documentation/

SHURFLO
https://www.pentair.com/en-us/products/residential/water-supply-disposal/recreational-vehicle/shurflo-revolution-4008-series-by-pass-pump.html?queryID=db4b20705223bbb3e90973034b84ba63&objectID=https://www.pentair.com/en-us/products/residential/water-supply-disposal/recreational-vehicle/shurflo-revolution-4008-series-by-pass-pump.html&indexName=prod_pentair_products

REMCO
https://remcoindustries.com/pump-products/rv-pumps/3200-rv-series/

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/remco-power-rv-3200-series-32-gpm-45-psi-12-vdc-on-demand-rv-fresh-water-pumps-fittings-and-filter-included

CAMCO
(Manual unavailable)
TCBear
Explorer
Oct 17, 2023

Image above-right of recommended 36 inch long noise/pulse reduction hose loops as depicted in Flojet owner's manuals. Helpful for any brand or type of RV/boat water pump.

Text says "Note: To help reduce noise and vibration of the pump through the system use flexible lines on the inlet and outlet of the pump as shown above. Be sure to use lines rated to not collapse under pump vacuum." (Shouldn't be an issue with the reinforced thickwall hose previously mentioned.)
TCBear
Explorer
Oct 11, 2023
TWO ADDITIONAL U.S. BRAND PUMP CHOICES

In case you wanted yet more options for U.S. branded 3 gpm pumps, I recently came across two additional obscure options, the Camco #22491 and the made-in-USA Remco Series 3200. Remco is a longtime manufacturer of boat pumps and other pumps, and Camco is an established component supplier to the RV industry. (Remco also makes 1 gpm pumps for small RVs.) Little in the way of Amazon user reviews for either pump -- they're somewhat obscure choices -- although that shouldn't necessarily be a disqualifier.

CAMCO #22491
-One pump model offered
-3.0 gpm flow
-55 psi max pressure
-7.5 amps max draw
-10 amps or higher RV pump fuse assumed
-Bypass valve to reduce cycling and pulsation
-Plumbing strainer and two straight ½ inch connectors provided
-Can run dry without damage
-5/10 minute duty cycle – 5 min full flow, 10 min cooldown, like the Lippert pump
-2 year warranty

REMCO SERIES 3200
-3.2 gpm flow
-45 psi max pressure
-8 amps max draw
-10 amps or higher RV pump fuse assumed
-Unknown if bypass valve is provided
-Plumbing strainer and two connectors provided, one straight, one 90 elbow. Like Flojet, Remco uses proprietary o-ring fittings, which shouldn’t be a complication for most folks. Note that Remco confusingly refers to "3/4 inch" fittings, but they're talking about the 3/4" holes in the pump head the fittings press into. The barbed hose end of each fitting appears to be a standard 1/2". Their catalog lists alternate proprietary fittings available.
-Can run dry without damage
-Can be wall mounted with the pump module above the motor
-Made in the USA
-1 year warranty
valhalla360
Navigator
Oct 10, 2023
jimh406 wrote:
All kidding aside, I could have used something like this before I bought my last pump. Mine is still working years later, so I guess I got lucky.

We replaced a 20yr old pump many years ago and then used it flawlessly for 5yr before selling the boat. Never had another fail. We just bought the cheapest readily available pump.

We full time and only operate off the fresh water tank, so they get heavy use.... must be lucky or they are all pretty reliable.
StirCrazy
Moderator
Oct 09, 2023
TCBear wrote:
RV WATER PRESSURE REGULATORS

Reiterating StirCrazy's concerns from an earlier post, wherein he was unknowingly experiencing 120 psi municipal water pressure spikes in his RV (spikes, if any, most often occur at night after industry shuts down and water demand slows, allowing pressure to rise). If you connect to a community water supply at campgrounds or RV parks (rather than simply filling your freshwater tank with a hose), you should definitely install a $15+ water pressure regulator, which limits water pressure into an RV at a manageable 40 to 55 psi. Very easy to install. There's many to choose from, adjustable and non-adjustable, with psi gauge and without. Google "Camco 40055" to Camco's website for a good description and photos of how they work.

And don't forget that while you can fill a freshwater tank with any garden hose so long as you flush it for at least 5 seconds (avoid dubious RV dump station hoses), for an RV park connection you need to use a "drinking water" hose, often white in color. These won't leech vinyl byproducts into the stored water as the hose warms in the sun.

I solely boondock camp, no utilities, so perhaps others can comment on their experience with these pressure regulators.

that was actually in my house. if you got that in a RV you would swimming in no time and launching the cheap plastic tap sets all over the place haha I always use a regulator on my rv's, I just assumed when I bought the house there was one installed already as it is required under building codes up here.
TCBear
Explorer
Oct 08, 2023
RV WATER PRESSURE REGULATORS

Reiterating StirCrazy's concerns from an earlier post, wherein he was unknowingly experiencing 120 psi municipal water pressure spikes in his RV (spikes, if any, most often occur at night after industry shuts down and water demand slows, allowing pressure to rise). If you connect to a community water supply at campgrounds or RV parks (rather than simply filling your freshwater tank with a hose), you should definitely install a $15+ water pressure regulator, which limits water pressure into an RV at a manageable 40 to 55 psi. Very easy to install. There's many to choose from, adjustable and non-adjustable, with psi gauge and without. Google "Camco 40055" to Camco's website for a good description and photos of how they work.

And don't forget that while you can fill a freshwater tank with any garden hose so long as you flush it for at least 5 seconds (avoid dubious RV dump station hoses), for an RV park connection you need to use a "drinking water" hose, often white in color. These won't leech vinyl byproducts into the stored water as the hose warms in the sun.

I solely boondock camp, no utilities, so perhaps others can comment on their experience with these pressure regulators.
TCBear
Explorer
Oct 07, 2023
1 GPM "SINGLE FIXTURE" WATER PUMPS FOR SMALL RVS

The posts above relate to "standard" RV water pumps in the 3 gpm range. These come with 1/2 inch hose fittings for both inlet and outlet, and generally require a 10 amp RV fuse.

Should you need to replace a 1 gpm "single water fixture" pump in a small RV, these have smaller 3/8 inch inlet/outlet fittings due to their lesser flow, and usually require a 5 amp RV fuse.

For some reason the 1 gpm pumps tend to operate at lower pressures (typically 30 to 35 psi) than the 3 gpm pumps (typically 45 to 55 psi), perhaps because it's anticipated that pumps for small RVs will have shorter lengths of plumbing to push water through, and therefore less overall flow resistance to overcome via a higher pressure. (Imagine pumping a gallon of water through 10 miles of pipe versus 10 feet of pipe. HUGE difference. Pumps push...but pipe and fittings push back.) So long as you keep pressure below 60 psi in a common PEX RV plumbing system (generally white, red or blue tubing rather than older gray tubing, the industry standard since circa 2000), you should be fine.

In addition to the off-brands of 1 gpm pumps, here's two name brands:

FLOJET
-#RLFP122202A or #LF122022
-12 volts
-1 gpm
-35 psi
-3.5 to 4.0 max amps
-5 amp or higher RV pump fuse
-Bypass valve to reduce cycling and pulsation
-56 mm x 84 mm mounting hole spacing
-Run-dry survivability
-Two 3/8" barbed fittings included, strainer sold separately. Can use Flojet #01720023S or #01740-003S in-line 3/8" strainer or generic via search of "3/8 pump strainer."
-2 year warranty

SHURFLO
-#105-003 OEM or #105-013 Aftermarket, same pump
-12 volts
-1 gpm
-30 psi
-2.5 to 3.0 max amps
-5 amp or higher RV pump fuse
-57 mm x 81 mm mounting hole spacing
-Run-dry survivability
-Two 3/8" barbed fittings included, strainer sold separately. Can use Flojet #01720023S or #01740-003S in-line 3/8" strainer or generic via search of "3/8 pump strainer."
-1 year warranty

It's easiest to replace a standard pump with a standard pump, and a single fixture pump with a single fixture pump. The original pump choice made by your RV builder is most likely accurate, with little need to upsize or downsize for most folks. But should you want or need to switch from one flow range to the other, you'll need to address both the differently sized fittings and possibly fuse amperage and switch amperage as well. You may be able to find different threaded adaptor fittings to do so. If not, simply use barbed hose adapters via an InterTube search of "reducer barb 1/2 3/8." #APXC1238 is carried in Home Depot stores, #BHB-393NL (sharper and better barbs -- you can use it as a prison shiv) is carried in Lowes stores, and also see #RF885 online. For a simple coupler to join two pieces of 3/8" tubing together, see #BHB-290NLB, #APXC3838, or Everbilt #800069. For potable 3/8" reinforced vinyl tubing (3/8" ID, 5/8" OD), see Eastman #98627, EZ-Flo #98626, Everbilt #HKP002-PVC001, or generic bulk hose on EBay. Use proper, small hose clamps that max out close to 5/8" such as Ideal #6260419, Apollo #IDL15 or Everbilt #6260294. Note that some of the generic 3/8" strainers have a bizarre 0.492" outer dia. barb that is intended to fit both 3/8" and 1/2" tubing, so read carefully and consider paying extra for the Flojet strainer. Flojet states that 3/8" barbed hose fittings (and therefore the entire water system) can flow up to 2.1 gpm, so a standard 3 gpm pump can't likely be fully utilized to its capabilities in a 3/8" system.

Or you can train your dog to push a manual hand-pump with his paws whenever you're in your RV. Trust me, he'll do it for hot dogs.
jimh406
Explorer III
Oct 06, 2023
All kidding aside, I could have used something like this before I bought my last pump. Mine is still working years later, so I guess I got lucky.
TCBear
Explorer
Oct 06, 2023
Thanks for the feedback and shout-outs, folks! Much appreciated. As was likely obvious, I didn't want to write a short reference guide to pumps since those are readily found on the InterTubes. I was actually going for the very LONG version with a dump truck's worth of details, one that even explains what NSF51 means and mentions the burst point of PEX. Many won't read my novella, but there's many factoids there for those who want that detail. I suppose I wrote it for you real and faux engineers out there.

Speaking of PEX, thanks for your details on that, StirCrazy. You're correct that there's several variations of PEX, and its reliability and capabilities including burst pressure start to get fuzzy after a decade of use, vibration and summer heat.

Glad my lengthy mosh pit o' wordage proved helpful.
opnspaces
Navigator II
Oct 06, 2023
Agreed, TCBear thanks for putting in the effort for the write up. Not only was was very informative but I'm sure we're going to see people referring to your post in the future as well.