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TCBear
Explorer
Oct 06, 2023

Tips for Choosing a 12V Replacement Water Pump

PART #1 OF 8

Howdy. I'm not an RV expert, but recently I researched 12 volt freshwater pumps in DETAIL to replace my Fleetwood trailer’s original 2007 Shurflow pump that finally expired. My porous skull absorbed enough info that I thought I'd share it in the hopes that others might benefit, definitely the LONG version here. The pump info below relates to small, medium and many larger RVs, but you might consult an expert if you own a mega beast, a complex water system, a high filtration or reverse-osmosis system. RV experts, feel free to correct any errant info here.

Skip to “Just Pick a Pump” (Part 5) below for a quick pump recommendation.

These eight posts relate to "standard" 3 gpm pumps. If you're replacing a "single fixture" 1 gpm pump in a small RV, see the later follow-up post as well as the general details below.

An RV's water pump pressurizes water from the freshwater tank, allowing you to use the various water fixtures in the rig including the sink, shower and toilet. Leaks, excessive noise or poor performance are all reasons to consider replacing an old water pump, but causes can also be unrelated to the pump itself. To check your water pump (a generalized test), turn on your kitchen sink faucet to a minimal water flow. If the water pump cycles and its “off-time” is two seconds or longer, it’s operating correctly. Sometimes when the water flow is restricted, a water pump will resort to a “rapid cycle.” This means the cycling will cut on or off in less than two seconds. If this happens during your test, check the pump owner’s manual to see if you can make any adjustments. If not, you may need a different pump or an RV accumulator tank (see below).

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