Tow Vehicle Battery and Alternator
My trucks alternator is rated at 150 amps. Its starting battery is your typical 600 CCA AC Delco variety. My goal is to increase charging capability through the 7 pin pigtail connector near the hi...
Forum Discussion
I'm going to purchase and install the 40 amp DC to DC charger. Couple questions though.
A signal control (ignition line) is required to activate this device. Considering the application is a tow behind trailer, can I use the 7 pin trailer harness to tap into for a 12 volt source instead of running a separate line all the way back to the TV's ignition circuit? It would either be the #4 pin (aux) or #3 pin (tail/running lights). I think the tail lights would be a better option as I could control the unit's power via the headlight switch. Thoughts?
Most newer trucks switch off power to the plug with key off. With that said you would need to disconnect or install a diode to keep the trailer from back feeding and causing the charger to stay on. Any 12 volt circuit that would turn off when you want it to will work.
Also, the Renogy wiring diagram shows both positive and negative lines running from the starter battery to the DCDC charger. Is it possible to just wire in a negative line to the chassis of the TV (near the hitch) and run that along side the positive line from the starter battery? I would use a dual pole plug & socket like the Tectran recommended earlier in the thread.
I would not have an issue with using the frame as a ground.(just make sure battery to frame cable is adequate.)
Also, I would wire in a fuse or breaker on the positive feed near the starter battery. Is a 60 amp ok for 6 AWG wire? What is preferred, breaker or fuse?
If you used a breaker, you would not need to carry a spare. Either will work.
Finally, there are dip switches on the charger that customize the charging profile of the battery bank. Considering I'm using flooded GC2 6 volt batteries, what is the recommended absorption and float "end-of-charge" voltages for my configuration?
If it were me 14.7 and 13.2(you could bump up to 13.5 or 13.8 if you are using a lot of power.
A signal control (ignition line) is required to activate this device. Considering the application is a tow behind trailer, can I use the 7 pin trailer harness to tap into for a 12 volt source instead of running a separate line all the way back to the TV's ignition circuit? It would either be the #4 pin (aux) or #3 pin (tail/running lights). I think the tail lights would be a better option as I could control the unit's power via the headlight switch. Thoughts?
Most newer trucks switch off power to the plug with key off. With that said you would need to disconnect or install a diode to keep the trailer from back feeding and causing the charger to stay on. Any 12 volt circuit that would turn off when you want it to will work.
Also, the Renogy wiring diagram shows both positive and negative lines running from the starter battery to the DCDC charger. Is it possible to just wire in a negative line to the chassis of the TV (near the hitch) and run that along side the positive line from the starter battery? I would use a dual pole plug & socket like the Tectran recommended earlier in the thread.
I would not have an issue with using the frame as a ground.(just make sure battery to frame cable is adequate.)
Also, I would wire in a fuse or breaker on the positive feed near the starter battery. Is a 60 amp ok for 6 AWG wire? What is preferred, breaker or fuse?
If you used a breaker, you would not need to carry a spare. Either will work.
Finally, there are dip switches on the charger that customize the charging profile of the battery bank. Considering I'm using flooded GC2 6 volt batteries, what is the recommended absorption and float "end-of-charge" voltages for my configuration?
If it were me 14.7 and 13.2(you could bump up to 13.5 or 13.8 if you are using a lot of power.
