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shootandfish1's avatar
shootandfish1
Explorer
Jul 12, 2013

Trailer Tire Notes-Balancing Boo-Boo, Maybe?

This evening I jacked and blocked up the boat trailer, and removed the tires (14 in., radials).

Since this is a new boat and trailer, I needed to go thru the exercise for several reasons.

First, I needed to figure out what combo of jack and lumber needed to safely raise and support the trailer in the event of a roadside flat or a more serious problem. This is an Aluminum I-Beam trailer, and I want to only use a jack under the galvanized steel axle. This is going to require a 'low' jack.

Second, I need to grease the Super Lube Spindle while spinning the tires. FWIW, after quite a bit of research, I'm going to standardize on one grease for all of my trailer wheel bearings, Kendall, L-427, Super Blu Grease for Trailer Bearings (High Temp, High Pressure). This grease came highly recommended by a couple of marine mechanics (Lake Cumberland area) and was discussed at length with Tech Support at ConocoPhilips (owns Kendall) for higher speeds and heavier trailers, including boat trailers.

Now, for my 'Maybe a Boo-Boo', I was going to have the tires (and spare) balanced tomorrow since I already had the trailer axle blocked up. Loaded up the tires when it hit me, This trailer has been sitting for 2 weeks (parked on grass).

I'm concerned about 'flat' spots from sitting affecting the tire balance.

What say the Pros here?

My thoughts are to put the tires back on and run the trailer up the road, then immediately remove the tires. Due to the aluminum I-Beams, I really don't want the tire shop taking the tires off.

Thanks in advance,

Fred
  • shootandfish1's avatar
    shootandfish1
    Explorer
    Jul 19, 2013
    Thanks to all that responded.

    I need to find a source and order some Dyno Beads.

    I started this thread with a silly question and ended up learning something major about trailer wheels, (lug-centric verses hub-centric). BTW, the S-hook from a rubber tie-down (bungy?) strap made an excellent tool for removing the wheel weights.

    Fred
  • srd357's avatar
    srd357
    Explorer
    Jul 16, 2013
    I use Dyna Beads for the trailer and tow vehicle. Everything is super smooth.
  • 64thunderbolt's avatar
    64thunderbolt
    Explorer II
    Jul 13, 2013
    shootandfish1 wrote:
    did an internet search for lug plates and after a few minutes, I'm positive that this shop did not use a lug plate.

    Being in a smaller town, my guess is that I will have a hard time finding a shop with proper equipment for balanceing lug-centric rims.

    based on 'quick and dirty' research, Dyna-beads may be my best choice for Trailer (lug-centric) rims.

    Lesson learned, thanks to Huntingdog for clueing me in.

    Plan on removing the weights, since they are probably incorrectly installled.

    Fred


    The beads balance the entire rotating assembly, hub, brake drum, & wheel & tire. In the old days I had my semi's balanced with them mounted. Got amazing milage out of them. But I haven't seen one of thos rollers in years though so the beads are the nexy best thing.
  • shootandfish1's avatar
    shootandfish1
    Explorer
    Jul 13, 2013
    did an internet search for lug plates and after a few minutes, I'm positive that this shop did not use a lug plate.

    Being in a smaller town, my guess is that I will have a hard time finding a shop with proper equipment for balanceing lug-centric rims.

    based on 'quick and dirty' research, Dyna-beads may be my best choice for Trailer (lug-centric) rims.

    Lesson learned, thanks to Huntingdog for clueing me in.

    Plan on removing the weights, since they are probably incorrectly installled.

    Fred
  • shootandfish1's avatar
    shootandfish1
    Explorer
    Jul 13, 2013
    OP back.

    Wish I had paid a little closer attention while at the shop. I remember that the tech had to switch out the 'cone' shaped object that fit in the center hole.

    I take it that the 'cone' shape thingy is not a lug plate.

    I've towed at speeds up the 65 mph (trip home, interstate) , took the boat out 3 times, 2 hr.each trip at 55 mph, and did not notice any undue vibration (not that I would).

    So, until a find a shop with a lug plate, should I pull the weights off?
  • Huntindog's avatar
    Huntindog
    Explorer
    Jul 13, 2013
    wacdmc wrote:
    I'm no expert but I disagree. From what I have read, balancing keeps reduces tire vibration which in turn reduces bearing wear, tire heat and improper wear on the tire. The reason most don't balance is because no one is in the trailer to feel the vibration that unbalanced tires cause. I balance all of my trailer tires.
    Disagree all you want. Years ago when money was tight, a tire shop suggested that I could save a few bucks by not balancing the rear tires (solid rear axle) He said that there would be no vibration issues so long as they were not put on the front...He was right. Later on, one of those tires was retired to "spare service" and subsequently needed on the front... Terrible vibration. Most TTs use solid axles.

    But if you are gonna do it, make sure that they use a lug plate, or you may well be making the balance worse!!
  • wacdmc's avatar
    wacdmc
    Explorer
    Jul 13, 2013
    I'm no expert but I disagree. From what I have read, balancing keeps reduces tire vibration which in turn reduces bearing wear, tire heat and improper wear on the tire. The reason most don't balance is because no one is in the trailer to feel the vibration that unbalanced tires cause. I balance all of my trailer tires.
  • BFL13's avatar
    BFL13
    Explorer II
    Jul 13, 2013
    I have a fifth wheel trailer and from what I have gathered, there is no point in balancing its tires. (forget all the details why)

    Secondly, there was something about the trailer wheels not having the centre in the centre, so the balancing machine needed an adapter of some sort to get the hole in the middle.
  • Huntindog's avatar
    Huntindog
    Explorer
    Jul 12, 2013
    shootandfish1 wrote:
    Just got back, the shop 'spin' balanced versus the old school service station 'bubble' balance.

    I'm not sure what to think, the tech said I had 1 decent rim, 1 so-so, and 1 very poor. He told me that the rims were not real true, the worst acted as if bent. These are brand new, less than 800 mi.

    I measure the length of the weights, so to give you folks a sense of the situation,

    tire 1----3 3/4" inside, 5" outside

    tire 2----4 1/2" inside, 1 1/4" outside

    tire 3----3 1/2" inside, 1 1/2" outside


    Tires are Made in China, Karrier, ST205/75R14, LR C, 1760# at 50psi.

    Rims are galvanized steel, make unknown.

    I've been watching here long enough to plan on buying a set of Maxxis before any long trips(KY to Fl,ect,), but based on what I've got, I may need a set of 'quality' rims, too. Upgrading to 15" is also a thought.

    Suggestions? Any comment on the Kendall 'Super Blu' grease?
    He probably did not use a lug plate. Most trailer rims are lug centric, not hub centric. Using the hubcentric method will give results of a bad rim as the hub hole is not centered. And it CANNOT be balanced without a lug plate..In fact it may well make it worse. Tire shops hate to use them as it is more work. I request it and watch them to make sure they do it. Often they have to go get the right plate from another location. Even tried to tell me I was wrong once...Changed their tune after I insisted and they saw the difference for themselves.

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