Transfer switch freaking out

NOTHING in the RV will cause your problem, UNLESS your WHITE Neutral wire at the main breaker panel is loose or not making good contac. Same at the Shore Cord and connection to the shore cord. IF the Neutral wire is loose or not making contac, that will destroy Transfer boxes and other components in the RV. Loose Black or Red wires will not cause a problem except arcing at the loose connection or just no power on that leg. But will not burn out items. When you install or replace a 30 or 50 amp transfer box, you MUST tighten the nuts/screws down tight and then wait about 15 minutes and then go back and retorque the screws/nuts. The copper will give a little after the first tightening. You will be suprised at how much your 2nd tightening allows. Low voltage is also a transfer box killer under load. Doug

Another update:
Went into camper yesterday to turn fridge on in prep for our trip tomorrow when all a sudden the main AC stops...I then smell electrical burning....low and behold my transfer switch is smoking!!! The T1 wire from the load side of the contactor melted and arched until the wore actually broke. I put in the old transfer switch and have been taking amp readings all night and this morning and only running at 14amp with once AC and 2 refrigerators running. Factory working on a solution but wanted to see if any of you have any idears?


Tim

UPDATE:
Factory sent me a new transfer switch, 2 weekends ago after a good rain, I plugged the camper in and right away the switch started freaking out. So i took the load wires off the contactors and turned on again. Switch still freaking out so I have narrowed it down to something between the house power to the incoming wires on line side of contactor. I went and cleaned all connections on power cable and add dieletric grease to all connections. Turned power on and bingo!!!! So I assume that I had moisture somewhere in the line and by adding the grease i solved my mystery. I went ahead and replaced the Transfer switch and for the past 2 weeks been running perfect!!!

I have a volt meter that i keep in the camper.....THe issue is how to recreate this at the house now that I am back home.......

I have TRC's 30 Amp Portable Surge Guard. There have been times I have plugged it in and after 128 seconds it passes the self-test. THEN a bit later I walk by the pedestal and the relay inside it is chattering continuously. I shut the breaker off, plug in a 50-to-30 amp dogbone in the 50 amp side, and plug in the Surge Guard - and it is happy. The 30 amp side of the pedestal was faulty.

Your 50A Hardwire - Model 41260 Automatic Transfer Switch has basic surge protection properties, but has no status indicators to show what is tripping it.

Where am I going with this? Your transfer switch's hammering sounds like my surge protector's freak out over bad power. Have you tested the pedestal? It could be a bad breaker, a loose terminal causing a short, or ground issue. There may be nothing wrong with the transfer switch.

It is the Surge Guard hammering away at the surges. A nickle and dime plug-in AC volt meter would reveal all there is to know about the problem.

Fish- THat was kind of what i was thinking is maybe the park power went low. I have camped at 5 different camp grounds and this is the first event like this. So it is a******shoot on if it is a bad switch or bad power?

Tim

I suspect your transfer switch is sensing low voltage, and is protecting your rig from damage.

The more draw you have on the post, the lower the voltage. So, when you have two air conditioning units running and something else is turned on, your rig is drawing quite a bit of power which drops the voltage to an unsafe level.

The solution would be to reduce your power demand.

From taking the cover off it is bone dry in there. There is still dust and debris from when the unit was built that is dry.......I am a bit baffled as well....

Tim

The one and only transfer switch that I am familiar with used the 120 VAC voltage from the "Generator" via a time delay circuit to power the transfer relay to CLOSE the Normally Open contacts. Since you do not have a generator then this "Generator Ready" circuitry must be receiving sufficient voltage FROM THE SHORE POWER (and in some fashion bypass the delay circuit) to cause the relay to energize THEN, because the shore power has been cut off" immediately disengage only to be repeated.

So, the question becomes. how is this shore power "leaking" to the generator ready wiring? You will need to be the judge of that, any chance there is condensation or moisture inside the transfer switch box? I say this because there is a MOSFET (I think) in the delay circuit that could be sensitive and trigger via condensation and moisture (and thereby bypassing the delay aspect which is based on heating a thermal device). etc etc

(On edit, FET changed to MOSFET and thermal aspect of delay circuit)