the details for programming the tri are in the installers guide, level 1. since you're using a boondocker converter, set P1 to 13.5v, P2 to 2a, P3 to your bank's ah capacity, and P4 to amps. then do a charge.
then set P7 to level 3, and P10 to 85%, and next time you charge, see if the tri says 100% soc and about 0Ah's after a full charge to a little under 2a at 13.6v. if it takes over 100% to get to a full charge, decrease P10 to say 84%,, and vice versa.
the boondocker converter has a preset setpoint of 14.6v. this is the point at which, once battery voltage reaches 14.6v, during "bulk" charging, the converter switches to "abs" or "normal" voltage, which is 13.6v. it's working as it should. however, when it drops to 13.6v, amps will drop by about 70% of it's amps rating, and thus increase charge time considerably... like many more hours.
my pm4b-45 would drop from 45a to about 19a, for example, and then taper from there, instead of tapering from 45a. if you're running a generator, this is not good. if you're on shore power, it means it will take a long time to reach full charge, and will likely never get the bank's sg (specific gravity) readings up to their potential.