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Trojan T-105 charging specs

Jetta03
Explorer
Explorer
Hi all. Thx for the help with my previous question re: 6v battery selection

So I went ahead and bought the Trojan T-105's mostly because of reputation, the shop (Rocky's in Edmonton, awesome btw) matched the price, and they were a bit shorter than the Crown's and fit my battery box better.

Question is around charging. In looking at the specsheet for the T-105's I saw they specify a 14.8 volt absorption charge. Is there really any noticeable difference to be seen in capacity or lifespan by going to the extra trouble of increasing to 14.8? I believe most chargers are probably 14 or so volts at this stage. Thoughts?

Thx
25 REPLIES 25

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Mine has been verified full charge with hydrometer. And I really try to avoid using the thing.

The 15 minute daily boost in storage is very similar to the Progressive Dynamics converter.
Seems to work for me.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
HOLYGEEMANEEZ

With solar, set float maintenance energy by amp hour accumulation. Then verify with a dip de dip de dip doo-wah.

Dirtpig
Explorer
Explorer
OK i had mine set at 2hrs when we were using it, just changed it to 1hr but maybe ill adjust it to like 15min then for the next 3mo since its not going to be used at all.
2015 Nash 25C bumper pull /w 300watts solar my install
My Truck & RV youtube channel
2005 F-350 Diesel 4x4 CC SB SRW
2001 Honda XR400: many mods
12ft Lund WC boat & 9.9 Yamaha 4 stroke on custom loader.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
IIRC My absorption is set at 14.35 volts. 15 minutes if battery starts above 12.5(storage), 135 minutes if above 11.9(normal use), all day if below 11.9 volts(dilithium crystals are melting). My voltage is a bit lower than most recommend as the batteries are getting old and gas quite a bit heavy if I go 14.6+ volts. Bulk resets if accumulated time loads the battery below 12.2 for 20 minutes (heavy microwave use). Float is 13.35 volts.

Dirtpig
Explorer
Explorer
smkettner wrote:
SunSaver is a slam dunk to keep the Trojans happy. I especially like the availability to automatically adjust absorption time when in use vs. in storage.


Hi smkettner what amount of time do u set the absorption charge at 14.8v while trailer is stored? (battery disconnected but still attached to solar charging)
2015 Nash 25C bumper pull /w 300watts solar my install
My Truck & RV youtube channel
2005 F-350 Diesel 4x4 CC SB SRW
2001 Honda XR400: many mods
12ft Lund WC boat & 9.9 Yamaha 4 stroke on custom loader.

jrnymn7
Explorer
Explorer
hmmm, I wouldn't recommend "torquing down" a set of heads by feel.

It would be beneficial for all, if folks were to express the "age" of their batteries in cycles and d.o.d.'s; not years. A battery essentially sitting on float for 5 years proves nothing as to its durability or state of health.

As for AGM's, the inability to check their SG is a CON of agm's, not a pro.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
SunSaver is a slam dunk to keep the Trojans happy. I especially like the availability to automatically adjust absorption time when in use vs. in storage.

Jetta03
Explorer
Explorer
So I wanted to follow-up. Received the USB-Meterbus adapter today and gave it a try. It was very easy to setup the software and you have access to literally every setting via MSView. I was able to match exactly the charging setpoints of the Sunsaver MPPT controller to the Trojan T-105s.

At the end of the day I have no way of really telling how much benefit this will bring (just geeking out here really), but its kind of cool to know you can match up your system to the exact specs of your chosen batteries. Just need to get it out for some spring dry camping now ๐Ÿ™‚

Thx for all the help.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Jetta03 wrote:
westend wrote:
I think a lot of folks are also using a serial to USB conversion as USB is easier to manage for connectivity. Do you have the serial cable that ships with the controller or are you using a meter bus accessory?


Thx. The controller has RJ-11, and there is a new RJ-11 to USB adapter you can buy that replaces the old RJ-11 to serial unit. I think I might have a line on a distributor who may have it.
Good choice. I still haven't mastered MSView but I can make most of the functions work (having a time with saving files and making graphs).
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

Jetta03
Explorer
Explorer
westend wrote:
I think a lot of folks are also using a serial to USB conversion as USB is easier to manage for connectivity. Do you have the serial cable that ships with the controller or are you using a meter bus accessory?


Thx. The controller has RJ-11, and there is a new RJ-11 to USB adapter you can buy that replaces the old RJ-11 to serial unit. I think I might have a line on a distributor who may have it.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
The solar charge controller I use (sunsaver MPPT) has adjustable setpoints that should keep the trojan's happy, I just need the meterbus adapter to connect with the software to update the settings. Sounds like it would be great insurance.
The programmable settings are a large part of the functionality of the controller. I have the same controller and have the absorption setpoint at 14.8. I choose not to use the programmable equalization function because I have other chargers that are capable and I monitor SG levels throughout the year.

I think a lot of folks are also using a serial to USB conversion as USB is easier to manage for connectivity. Do you have the serial cable that ships with the controller or are you using a meter bus accessory?
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

grizzzman
Explorer
Explorer
Jetta03 wrote:
grizzzman wrote:
The short answer.....depends. As an example do you think that a person that uses there rv twice a year or two weekends a month durring the summer or is full time has the same charging needs? Or a RV park hopper and a boondocker? There isnt a converter out there thats a true battery charger(some are better then others) And alot of cheaper solar controllers cant do the job correctly. Do you REALY believe that the manufacturer who designed tested and built the battery dosent know whats best for it? You know MEX is right the battery hydrometer will tell you the truth. I suggest you use it. In fact just an hour ago i condemed a 2 month shy of a 5 year old kirkland battery using a hydrometer...its a handy tool.


I'm not trying to second guess the manufacturer, to the contrary my question is around putting out the effort/expense to do what the specsheet is indicating. Time and resources are not in unlimited supply unfortunately.

The solar charge controller I use (sunsaver MPPT) has adjustable setpoints that should keep the trojan's happy, I just need the meterbus adapter to connect with the software to update the settings. Sounds like it would be great insurance.


Seems like you knew the answer to your question all along.:) If you dont use a generator to charge your batteries then i wouldnt worry about the WFCO converter. I have one and the batteries have to be real low for bulk to work.(trash the batteries low) I suspect you will enjoy playing with MS view. Be shure you set Absorption to spec if you can.
2019 Ford F150 EcoBoost SuperCrew
2016 Rockwood Mini Lite 2504S. TM2030 SC2030
640 Watts Solar. Costco CG2 208 AH and Lifepo4 3P4S 150 AH Hybrid. ElectroDacus. Renolagy DC to DC charger. 2000 Watt Inverter.
Boondocking is my Deal

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
With decent amp hour metering hydrometer use is minimal. Picking on the weak-sister cell makes it a two minute operation of verification. Batteries that are not used hard do not have the same issues as those that are...

Some seem to have a particularly hard time grasping the concept.

It's like a motorist tooling down the interstate and seeing a fast approaching police cruiser im the rear-view mirror...

"I don't need no steenking speedometer!"

Jetta03
Explorer
Explorer
grizzzman wrote:
The short answer.....depends. As an example do you think that a person that uses there rv twice a year or two weekends a month durring the summer or is full time has the same charging needs? Or a RV park hopper and a boondocker? There isnt a converter out there thats a true battery charger(some are better then others) And alot of cheaper solar controllers cant do the job correctly. Do you REALY believe that the manufacturer who designed tested and built the battery dosent know whats best for it? You know MEX is right the battery hydrometer will tell you the truth. I suggest you use it. In fact just an hour ago i condemed a 2 month shy of a 5 year old kirkland battery using a hydrometer...its a handy tool.


I'm not trying to second guess the manufacturer, to the contrary my question is around putting out the effort/expense to do what the specsheet is indicating. Time and resources are not in unlimited supply unfortunately.

The solar charge controller I use (sunsaver MPPT) has adjustable setpoints that should keep the trojan's happy, I just need the meterbus adapter to connect with the software to update the settings. Sounds like it would be great insurance.