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Trojan T-105 Storage

pauldub
Explorer
Explorer
What is the best scheme for my T-105 batteries when I'm not using my motor home for 3-4 months? Will battery longevity be better if they are floated continuously at 13.5 volts for the pair, or should I disconnect them and periodically give them a boost charge?
15 REPLIES 15

opnspaces
Navigator
Navigator
Be careful ordering this model from Amazon. I did a search for the model number 12117TC and I found what looked like the same minder for the same price. But in reality it was 12117 not 12117TC and therefore no temperature compensation. I could only find the 12117TC for sale on the Northern Tool website. In fact when I went to the manufacturers website Batteryminders.com the model is not on the website for purchase. But when I typed 12117TC into the search box it shows up as exclusive for Northern Tools.


DFord wrote:
Battery Minder on sale at Northern Tools

.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup

down_home
Explorer
Explorer
We keep ours plugged in and float charge controlled by power management system.
For over ten years we have had it stored at full service indoor storage. This fall it will be in enclosed but no services so we will have to travel and check batteries and other things ourselves every two weeks. So long as they are charged full and batteries are full they should not freeze. Those things weigh about 75 lb?? each I think and have to get down on the floor to take them out. not going to try to do that.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
I wouldn't hesitate to store a battery at -20F if the origin of the power to operate the maintainer is high guarantee of operation like no brown or blackouts in several years.

Cold electrolyte can get to the point where it will allow a mere ten percent of the activity as compared to the same battery at 20c.

Many folks believe that in polar regions they keep engines running because cold oil would freeze an engine dead. Frigid oil will not lubricate but IT'S THE TEN TIMES THE BATTERY NEEDED THAT TURNS 500 CCA into 50 CCA THAT'S THE CORKER.

They have lube that will flow at -70F now. Synthetic at around fifty dollars a quart. But the battery issue is a challenge as well as the weakening of tensile strength of metals when temperatures get ridiculously frigid. Titanium anyone $$$$$$$$$$$$ ???

I did a CCA check on fully charged NEW Caterpillar 8-D batteries when it was -39F at Bridgeport around 40 years ago. The CCA was less than 300 amperes each.

Well that's winter. But to prolong life in a battery year-round colder rather than warmer temperatures is a major player. The batteries in my Rolls bank rejoiced in tropical 1.260 blend electrolyte and had .300" plate thickness to sacrifice. Year-round ave temp of near 80F. Extreme cold will aid a battery to stratify the acid faster than a warm battery. But the same cold temperature will reduce plate erosion by 50% or more. No free lunches.

The zinger with cold temps is the possibility of losing the grid and having the bank sit for four months. But weather like that happens above the arctic circle. When batteries had a destination of Pt Barrow. or the south Pole they had 1.300 polar blend electrolyte.
there is always loss at extreme temperatures. And the reduction differential between say 0F and -30F is not worth it realistically in battery life gains so battery maintenance chargers do not encourage age degradation and actually help stir electrolyte or more correctly slows down thermal stratification under extreme thermal conditions.

I've seen stored batteries that have gone a few years at polar conditions. The top inch or so lost density and froze solid and destroyed the battery,

But hauling the batteries from the rig to a cozy place on the hearth isn't doing them any favors.

Simple isolation from any possibility of accidental discharging, and a battery maintenance charger that has temperature compensation seems to be the smartest choice.

road-runner
Explorer III
Explorer III
With the RV stored inside and kept above freezing, I remove all parasitic loads and charge the T105s for a few hours every month or two over winter. I'm not making a claim that this is good, just reporting that they're 10 years old and still working.
2009 Fleetwood Icon

Dave_H_M
Explorer
Explorer
Look them up on ebay or amazon. Deltran battery tenders are my pick of the litter.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
The reason that they are so reasonably priced is they have to manage mere trickle amounts of current. They are genuine battery life extenders.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
The reason that they are so reasonably priced is they have to manage mere trickle amounts of current. They are genuine battery life extenders.

DFord
Explorer
Explorer
Battery Minder on sale at Northern Tools


I have several of these BatteryMinders - I use them on my lawnmower and the chassis battery on my MH. I have 4 vehicles - I tow one and leave the others at home over the winter. I remove their batteries and connect them to BatteryMinders so their well charged when I get home. Never had to add water to them. This sale price is very good right now.
Don Ford
2004 Safari Trek 31SBD (F53/V10 20,500GVW)
'09 HHR 2LT or '97 Aerostar MiniVan (Remco driveshaft disconnect) for Towed vehicles
BlueOx Aventa II Towbar - ReadyBrake Inertia Brake System

pauldub
Explorer
Explorer
Hmmmm, maybe I should just run some volts into my solar charge controller and let it do the maintaining. It has temp compensation. My solar panels are all in the shade when in storage but I could use a power supply to feed the charge controller as long as the controller doesn't try to fully recharge the batteries every day.

pauldub
Explorer
Explorer
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
You live in a perfect environment for battery storage.

The best way to store it is to switch it off circuit so there is zero chance of a fault draining the battery. Absolutely 0% chance of accident.

A battery maintainer that compensates for temperature is another must. This will reduce stratification to near zero. A maintainer with a potential of >1.0 amps would be my choice. The maintainer stays connected 24/7,


Mex, Do have a particular one in mind?

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
You live in a perfect environment for battery storage.

The best way to store it is to switch it off circuit so there is zero chance of a fault draining the battery. Absolutely 0% chance of accident.

A battery maintainer that compensates for temperature is another must. This will reduce stratification to near zero. A maintainer with a potential of >1.0 amps would be my choice. The maintainer stays connected 24/7,

Ski_Pro_3
Explorer
Explorer
I take mine out of the RV and place them in a garage that stays above freezing; around 40 or 50 degrees. I then check the electrolyte for specific gravity and trickle charge to at least 1.27 and then disconnect from the charger and place a digital voltage gauge on it. (draws no power until the button for display is pressed) I check it for 12.6 volts and specific gravity maybe once or twice during the down time. I've never seen the voltage change from 12.6 or the specific gravity drop below 1.265.
I suppose it's overkill as just charging them and leaving for 3 months wouldn't have changed anything.

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
A Trojan ain't no different than any other L/A battree, despite what battery knowitalls would have you believe, Keep it fully charged, and it will last forever. And I myself would like a continuous float charge of 13.2 in warm weather
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

jkwilson
Explorer II
Explorer II
Storage temperature and frequency youโ€™ll be able to check them and charge as required are important. Iโ€™d be reluctant to let them go more than 30 days without charging if they are stored where it is warm.
John & Kathy
2014 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS
2014 F250 SBCC 6.2L 3.73