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Trying to find a suitable A/C load center replacement

scooterd145
Explorer
Explorer
Hi there, I have a QO Load Center that has gone bad. I am trying to locate a suitable replacement but of course mine is obsolete (QO4-7RM70TTS) and parts are no longer available. My main problem is space is limited of course and just heading down to my local HD or Lowes I come away with stuff that is way too big.

The DC stuff is working fine but I have no shore power and I eventually traced it inside the load center, the bus bar was cracked and has broken away from its mount. I discovered this while pulling the main circuit breaker thinking maybe it had gone bad

On my rig the power cord enters the load center directly into a main circuit breaker and then there are 3 additional circuit breakers that feed Air Conditioner - Microwave - Misc. The DC stuff is separate and like I mentioned is working fine.

The current breaker box is 10 x 7.5 x 3 I could go a little larger by doing some cutting of the opening but not a lot.

Is there a "standard" A/C load center I should look for? Should I look at doing away with this style and converting to some kind of combo AC/DC system?

I am fairly handy and build/fix my own stuff but my expertise is more along the line of motorcycles. I am pretty good with watching a youtube or three and figuring out stuff so let me know what you think.

P.S it is not for the Coachman rig in my profile
Scott
2005 F150 LARIAT
1992 Alpenlite 22XL
8 REPLIES 8

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
Make sure the neutral bus is isolated from the ground bus per NEC requirements.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate

scooterd145
Explorer
Explorer
Well I did it and it worked! I did add a ground bar and used every other circuit (was easy/obv) to follow on the bus bar which ones. In my case I onlt needed the 3 circuits so it worked out FANTASTIC. Hope this helps someone else out some day

Scott
2005 F150 LARIAT
1992 Alpenlite 22XL

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
scooterd145 wrote:
Thank you folks for taking the time to answer my question.

My rig is 30Amp 120V 3 wire.

I tried getting a replacement buss bar but this one was obsolete and not available

I ended up going with one from Home Depot that was almost as small and that I could modify the hole it fits in and still close the cupboard door that is in front of it. I was assured that even though this one is main lug (as opposed to main breaker) that the main breaker from the rig cord will back feed other breakers on that side of the buss bar. If he is right I am in business.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-Homeline-100-Amp-6-Space-12-Circuit-Indoor-Surface-Mount-Main-L...

It was certainly cheap enough and in stock, even with new breakers I am under $60. With any luck I will have it back together this weekend.
I'll let you know if this solves my problem!

Thanks
Scott


That should work, with a couple of caveats. First, you'll need (and maybe already have) the ground bus bar that is sold separately, as an RV needs to have the neutral and ground busses isolated from each other.

Second, it's a 120/240V load center, so you'll either have to skip every other breaker position (using three of the six) or else connect a jumper wire between the two main lugs of sufficient size to carry the full service current (i.e. 10 gauge or heavier). In either case, the main breaker needs to be a single pole breaker; a double pole main breaker should not be used in this application, as it's a 120V circuit and not a 120/240V circuit. I don't know that jumpering the main lugs would technically be acceptable per the NEC, but if done properly it's not unsafe.

scooterd145
Explorer
Explorer
Thank you folks for taking the time to answer my question.

My rig is 30Amp 120V 3 wire.

I tried getting a replacement buss bar but this one was obsolete and not available

I ended up going with one from Home Depot that was almost as small and that I could modify the hole it fits in and still close the cupboard door that is in front of it. I was assured that even though this one is main lug (as opposed to main breaker) that the main breaker from the rig cord will back feed other breakers on that side of the buss bar. If he is right I am in business.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-Homeline-100-Amp-6-Space-12-Circuit-Indoor-Surface-Mount-Main-L...

It was certainly cheap enough and in stock, even with new breakers I am under $60. With any luck I will have it back together this weekend.
I'll let you know if this solves my problem!

Thanks
Scott
2005 F150 LARIAT
1992 Alpenlite 22XL

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Check out Progressive Dynamics (you will have to google 'em)

THey make some nice and SMALL load centers. (I call them distribution panels) as well as intergrated load center/Converters. The load centers are in shapes you do not often see at Lowe's or Home Depot. (Like mine is one breaker high by several breakers wide 50 amp) and the converters.... I've been trying for over a deacade to find one better... Without success. (My of saying best made).
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
Doing some googling, I think the best you are going to do is a 2 space, 4 circuit load center, like this Homeline Homeline 2 space 4 circuit load center



It should accept tandem breaker. It is available at Home Depot, Lowes (both will likely have to order it) or Amazon. You will likely have to order a ground bar.

Any of the 4 space load centers are too big.

theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
What is your "feed" ? 50A (240V, 4 wire) or 30A (120V, 3 wire) ? Flush mount or surface mount ?

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
You may be able to replace the bus bar alone. Places like Home Depot sell them.
Or you could go to Bestconverter.com for a whole new load center.