Forum Discussion
rambleonrose
Apr 02, 2020Explorer II
Yikes! Sorry about the giant pics. Thanks for the tips. Fixed now.
Thanks for the links re: the converter - I'll study them.
So black in my hot line - Yes? I'm not familiar with Auto color standards, and I think another poster said the colors/black were backwards.... I'm sorry if I seem daft and full of questions, I'm trying to correlate the DC terms with what's already in my brain. I'm a visual/hands on learner, so this has been challenging for me, as I have nothing at all to refer to, and finding videos online that are even close to my setup has left me fairly empty-handed...
Thanks for your detailed & patient response, Doug. I really appreciate it! I don't think I'm in over my head just yet, but I'm definitely treading water, trying to learn as I go.
Thanks for the links re: the converter - I'll study them.
dougrainer wrote:
1. There is no such thing as a DC neutral buss.
I knew that was the wrong word, but I wasn't sure what to call it - I should have used a question mark or something. That's the AC term...
2. If outside the box, it is usually the GROUND/Negative BUSS for the 12 volt DC appliances and connection from the Chassis frame ground
Ok, my DC understanding is still shaky, and I"m trying to differentiate it between AC, and remember the **** terms... So AC has 'hot' 'neutral' and 'ground', C only has 'hot' and 'ground' (because it's direct - single direction flow(?) - current)?
3. The wire(Black) that has the 2 wires soldered together, that is the HOT 120 wire that comes from the CONVERTER to the 120 breaker in the breaker box. The soldered end is installed in the breaker(15 or 20 amp) and the Black loose pigtail is wire nutted to a 120 appliance or 120 wall receptacle as its FEED 120 power.
4. The box on the bottom of your power center is the Magnetek Power Converter itself.
So that whole bottom portion is the converter - Ok. Is an INVERTER not needed, then? One poster suggested an upgrade to just an inverter... Unless I misunderstood their post, it sounded like they were saying to do away with the converter altogether, and only have AC when connected to SP... I do want the option of off-grid, and I'd like to keep at least one 120VAC - phone or computer charging, likely - I suppose my old cigarette lighter plug could do that, though... Thoughts?
5. The ONLY stranded wires will be the 3 120 wires FROM the 30 amp Power cord in the pic where you are holding the soldered wire. The other stranded wires will be that black soldered wire you are holding and the WHITE Neutral wire that runs from the CONVERTER along with the Black soldered wire that connects to the 30 amp breaker
6. Remember, EXCEPT for item 5 above. any other stranded wires will be 12 volt DC wires. The Romex 120 wiring leaving the Breaker panel going to 120 receptacles and 120 appliances will be solid core copper.
ok makes sense.
7. Here is where it gets tricky. From your last 2 pics, it appears the 12 volt DC wires were 2 stranded Black and white together. USUALLY, the WHITE is the Ground/Negative. The BLACK will be 12 volt positive. This is standard RV wire color. Don't use Automobile color standards.
I state this because you stated the WHITE wires were all together on an outside the power center wire BUSS. They use a common Ground. The Black wires will be connected to the 12 volt fuse panel. Doug
So black in my hot line - Yes? I'm not familiar with Auto color standards, and I think another poster said the colors/black were backwards.... I'm sorry if I seem daft and full of questions, I'm trying to correlate the DC terms with what's already in my brain. I'm a visual/hands on learner, so this has been challenging for me, as I have nothing at all to refer to, and finding videos online that are even close to my setup has left me fairly empty-handed...
Thanks for your detailed & patient response, Doug. I really appreciate it! I don't think I'm in over my head just yet, but I'm definitely treading water, trying to learn as I go.
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