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Voltage Drop - NOT Park Problem

ThruTraffic
Explorer
Explorer
Phoenix Cruiser 2551 30a service

- First noticed it when A/C turns on then stumbles. Voltage at another RV outlet dropped well below 100. Capacitors good. A/C working fine until this point. A/C did trip ITS 20a breaker one time. 30a main held.
- Problem persists when disconnected from shore power and generator running. Main indicator this is an RV wiring problem not shore power delivery system.
- Thermostat threw an E1.
- Inverter monitor behind driver seat threw an E2 and E5.
- Can turn on toaster at one outlet voltage drops 3v
- Can turn on hot water heater voltage drops 3v
- Hooked up a 15a draw elect device drops 5v
- System wide problem
- Checked connections at transfer switch, socket for shore power, junction where old EMS used to be, mains in RV breaker panel. Checked neutrals, grounds and feeds. All tight.

Shore power is my RV lot shop. I can find no voltage issues there even under load. Problem is on the load side of the RV sidewall shore power connector. Even tried different cables and installed a new 30a breaker.

Am I missing any 120v main connections in the RV not listed above?

Iโ€™m stumped.
47 REPLIES 47

marty1300
Explorer
Explorer
I had a 120 volt issue a while back. On shore power all was well. On generator is where the issue was. From our generator to where the transfer is made (manual transfer). There was a junction about 3 feet away where the stranded wire from generator was spliced into the solid wire that would go to transfer plug in back compartment. Look in a compartment near generator you may have same scenario. My wires had come apart an eventually burned.
Marty

ThruTraffic
Explorer
Explorer
ignore

ThruTraffic
Explorer
Explorer
BB_TX wrote:
Seems no one is actually reading thru the original post. :B


No shitsky! I hate to ask questions on a forum. Nearly always immediately destroyed as a way to collect 'relevant' information. One can supply a bulleted list of pre-gathered information and the first question will be "you haven't provided enough information".

BB_TX
Nomad
Nomad
So. Has the problem been found and resolved?

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
Lol, the lack of reading comprehension in this one was strong right out of the gates but the grumpy old man responses were in a close second and now taking the lead in the race!
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
BB_TX wrote:
Seems no one is actually reading thru the original post. :B


OK smarty..

Here is the first post the OP posted.

ThruTraffic wrote:
Phoenix Cruiser 2551 30a service

- First noticed it when A/C turns on then stumbles. Voltage at another RV outlet dropped well below 100. Capacitors good. A/C working fine until this point. A/C did trip ITS 20a breaker one time. 30a main held.
- Problem persists when disconnected from shore power and generator running. Main indicator this is an RV wiring problem not shore power delivery system.
- Thermostat threw an E1.
- Inverter monitor behind driver seat threw an E2 and E5.
- Can turn on toaster at one outlet voltage drops 3v
- Can turn on hot water heater voltage drops 3v
- Hooked up a 15a draw elect device drops 5v
- System wide problem
- Checked connections at transfer switch, socket for shore power, junction where old EMS used to be, mains in RV breaker panel. Checked neutrals, grounds and feeds. All tight.

Shore power is my RV lot shop. I can find no voltage issues there even under load. Problem is on the load side of the RV sidewall shore power connector. Even tried different cables and installed a new 30a breaker.

Am I missing any 120v main connections in the RV not listed above?

Iโ€™m stumped.


Absolutely where does the OP state that they checked VOLTAGES at every point I mentioned under load?

The OP only mentioned "checking" the connections and pronounced them good.

Checked them as in how?

Voltages?

Doubtful.

Looks?

Most likely, they mentioned the connections are "tight" which means they used a screw driver to see if any of the connections were "loose". Just because a connection is tight, doesn't mean it is electrically good.

You can have a "good looking" connection but yet have a poor electrical connection.

Op basically gave zero info that is helpful, no T stat brand and model, no inverter brand and model and all of the error codes are most likely some error stemming from low line voltage due to a bad connection in the 120V wiring.

If the problem is persistent across two or more electrical sources then you must go to the the common point where all electrical sources are tied in together.

Common points are EMS (if equipped), the place where EMS used to be (if removed), breaker panel and ATS.. Those are the first places to check in and out voltages. Checking voltage at an outlet is not the right place to start..

joebedford
Nomad II
Nomad II
I got E1 on my Dometic thermostat when I was running (by mistake) on low voltage.

BB_TX
Nomad
Nomad
Seems no one is actually reading thru the original post. :B

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
Not enough information given to hazard a guess.

T Stat brand with error code would be helpful.

Inverter brand and model also would be helpful with error code.

I guessed on the T stat to be a Dometic and E1 for that brand per HERE is..

"The E1 code indicates lack of communication between the CCC 2 thermostat and the power module boards. The system cannot operate and is about to shut down. Also, it may signal lack of communication between the CCC 2 thermostat and an individual power module board. The code contains the number of zone, which is out of communication, and it will appear on the LED screen. If an additional zone loses contact, it will blink next to the current one."

The A/C unit has a control board that digitally talks to the T stat via a cord that looks like a old style phone cord (but it isn't it is wired differently). In a nutshell communications between T stat and A/C is not happening any more.

Also instead of checking voltages at random places, start right at the beginning of your 120V system chain.

Check voltage at the RV end of the shore cord as well as at the generator.

Check voltage at your EMS input as well as the EMS output.

Check the voltage at the breaker panel on your main breaker.

Check the voltage at the inputs of the ATS and the output of the ATS.

Write everything down and then compare if or how much voltage drop you see between inputs and outputs. Where you find the greatest voltage drop under load you have found the problem.

Check the battery voltage at the battery and at the Inverter (you really need to give the brand and model or search the Internet using the name and trouble codes). Those error codes may be output overload, charging failure (if equipped with charger), too low of battery voltage (charging failure of the converter, faulty or worn out batteries).

ThruTraffic
Explorer
Explorer
1995brave wrote:
If it only happens when on generator and it's an on-board generator I would check the wiring of the generator. As someone stated it could be broken cable strands from the generator to the transfer switch. I would try a new cable from generator to transfer switch.



"- Problem persists when disconnected from shore power and generator running. Main indicator this is an RV wiring problem not shore power delivery system."

Problem exists whether on shore power OR generator power. This means the problem is not shore power or generator, or it's both (very highly unlikely). One or the other, no other options exist.

1995brave
Nomad
Nomad
If it only happens when on generator and it's an on-board generator I would check the wiring of the generator. As someone stated it could be broken cable strands from the generator to the transfer switch. I would try a new cable from generator to transfer switch.

ThruTraffic
Explorer
Explorer
wa8yxm wrote:
YOu said "Not a park problem" but how did you determine that.

Now.. measure voltage at park 120 NO LOAD
plug in and fire up water heater (A safe load for testing) Voltage 110.. Park problem.. (Measure voltage at the other outlets on the park pedestal not in the RV)

Other posiblities if a 50 amp RV you may have a weak/open neutral
OR you might have a bad connection the list of suspects here starts with the plug.

Bright and shiny or near black blades (Polish 'em up)
Connections inside the plug if not molded and welded connections
The outlet end of the cord where it hookes to the RV (If detachable) and the RV's INlet (Same song as the plug)

THe connection to the Auto Transfer switch (Both in and out) if any
The connection to the main distro panel and the Main breaker itself.

In short anywhere current flows.

Electricity is like water in a hose.. If at any point the hose is "pinched' or some idiot put a flow restrictor in a fitting.. LOW FLOW.


From initial post : Problem persists when disconnected from shore power and generator running. Main indicator this is an RV wiring problem not shore power delivery system." If I took the rig to Walmart's parking lot and ran it off the generator and still had the same problems would one believe it was shore power?

30amp service (has a neutral too)

Nothing wrong with transfer switch contactor contacts or lugs.

All power and neutral feeds have been checked. None cracked or broken. All terminals tight.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
YOu said "Not a park problem" but how did you determine that.

Now.. measure voltage at park 120 NO LOAD
plug in and fire up water heater (A safe load for testing) Voltage 110.. Park problem.. (Measure voltage at the other outlets on the park pedestal not in the RV)

Other posiblities if a 50 amp RV you may have a weak/open neutral
OR you might have a bad connection the list of suspects here starts with the plug.

Bright and shiny or near black blades (Polish 'em up)
Connections inside the plug if not molded and welded connections
The outlet end of the cord where it hookes to the RV (If detachable) and the RV's INlet (Same song as the plug)

THe connection to the Auto Transfer switch (Both in and out) if any
The connection to the main distro panel and the Main breaker itself.

In short anywhere current flows.

Electricity is like water in a hose.. If at any point the hose is "pinched' or some idiot put a flow restrictor in a fitting.. LOW FLOW.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

ThruTraffic
Explorer
Explorer
time2roll wrote:
ThruTraffic wrote:

- Checked connections at transfer switch, socket for shore power, junction where old EMS used to be, mains in RV breaker panel. Checked neutrals, grounds and feeds. All tight.
Ok they are tight. Now check voltage under load.

Could also be the compressor is failing. Get an amp draw on the air conditioner.


Already done both those things. Check initial post.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
ThruTraffic wrote:

- Checked connections at transfer switch, socket for shore power, junction where old EMS used to be, mains in RV breaker panel. Checked neutrals, grounds and feeds. All tight.
Ok they are tight. Now check voltage under load.

Could also be the compressor is failing. Get an amp draw on the air conditioner.