Forum Discussion
- MEXICOWANDERERExplorer
- Outlet in your garage has 20-amp service. Looks like 15-amp but has a cross-cut in the neutral slot
- Use a 12 gauge extension cord
- Flip breakers inside rig to turn off everything but the A/C
- The A/C should start and run. As long an nothing else is connected the 20 amp breaker will carry the load.
- DrewEExplorer IIPlug into a normal 20A circuit at home and try it without using other major appliances/devices (fridge off, water heater off electric, house batteries more or less charged so the converter isn't working overtime, etc.). The air conditioner on its own is fine on a 20A circuit; it has one in the RV, in fact. It's just the total of the air conditioner plus not very much else that could overload it. If all you have are 15A circuits, that could be a difficulty.
If you have an appropriately sized generator, you can check both at the same time. - j-dExplorer IIWhen we had a Class C with a 13500 Coleman Mach A/C, we could run it on a 20A branch circuit that had nothing else on it. I don't think that setup would run the 15000 unit on our present RV.
Part of the issue will be your adapter and any extension cord(s). I installed a 30A RV Receptacle and weatherproof cover so I could use the RV's shore tie cable and no adapter.
How old is your RV's A/C? If more than a couple years, have you cleaned it? I thought I'd have replace the old 13500. Cleaning the Evaporator at the front of the unit (requires removing shrouding) restored good performance and that A/C was over 20 years old. - MEXICOWANDERERExplorerI have connected several brands of 15K roof airs to a 20 amp receptacle.
Not only do they start fine, they RE-start fine against high head pressure. This is for testing not a permanent installation.
THIMK!
30 amp to 20 amp
Rigs connect to 30 amp service AND operate their hot water heater, refrigerator, and converter AND the 15K roof air... - Sam_SpadeExplorer
Mickeyfan0805 wrote:
We are headed to TN and then on to FL in July.
You will be coming to Florida in July....hurricane season....without a generator ??? Probably NOT a good plan. - LwiddisExplorer IIUsing a 20 amp circuit is how I test the AC appliances...one by one. Agree with the above comment regarding 12 gauge extension cord, and keep that cord short as you can.
- rk911Explorer
Mickeyfan0805 wrote:
We are headed to TN and then on to FL in July. This will be our first trip of the year and, given the temps we will be facing, I'd like to test the AC before we leave - just to make sure it is in working order. We have no 30a plug at home. Other than pulling into a campground somewhere, is there any option anyone can suggest to do a quick test on the unit?
how about running your generator? - MEXICOWANDERERExplorerPROFILE
2006 Suburban 2500 with 8.1L engine, 4.1 gears, upgraded hitch and MaxBrake controller towing a 2013 Rockwood 8312ss. - BoomerwepsExplorer
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
I have connected several brands of 15K roof airs to a 20 amp receptacle.
Not only do they start fine, they RE-start fine against high head pressure. This is for testing not a permanent installation.
THIMK!
30 amp to 20 amp
Rigs connect to 30 amp service AND operate their hot water heater, refrigerator, and converter AND the 15K roof air...
What he said.
I picked up a Kill-A-Watt plug in meter at Harbor Freight on sale a while back. I took the time and plugged it in to my TT AC line using a 30 to 15 amp adapter. The house circuit it plugs into is 20 amp (former submariner, I have all my house circuit breakers and what they supply mapped out ;). My AC is a 13,500 BTU and measured a constant 12 amps on high. Actually 1446 watts. - wa8yxmExplorer IIITurn off all circuit breakers in RV save MAIN and A/C. use a 20 amp circuit and a 12ga extension cord. you can get those at Home Depot, Lowes or Sears/K-mart, The latter has one with a push button on the outlet. I like it.
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