What are the differences in a T4 connector and a MC4?

I don't understand this about needing a tool either. It could be an "issue with the writing" or it could just be wrong.

I used Weather Paks in 1990 on the 4 Kyocera 51 watt panels on Quicksilver. Space Shuttle Endeavor/Discovery surplus refit wire from Lockheed. It's like brand new 27-years later. I literally "filled" the connection boxes with dielectric silicone grease then forced grease into all the panel seams. Reminds me - I need to replace the green fishnet coconut deflector on the roof.

mike-s wrote:
A tool most certainly is required for disconnecting them. Since 2008, the NEC requires it

Is it really that difficult to understand what people mean? A "complete disconnect" ... from reality :)

Mex, there is a decent o-ring already in place in original MC4. Can't say about clones - a better clone will likely have it too.

First I slip on the silicone o-ring.

I solder the Weather Pack pins onto the wire. Coat the pins in silicone grease and grease the o-ring. So when things are assembled, every bit of metal is overlaid with silicone grease.

If I want to get carried away, I slop on heavy duty silicone spray lube over the joined connector pair.

I'm lazy. As far as I'm concerned "repair work" means 7-year old work is like it happened "yesterday". But I use the convenient and politically correct excuse that lazily performed work that "fails too soon"is environmentally unconscionable landfill fodder. Waste of resources. Contributes to Global Climate Motormouth.

Almot wrote:
TUV is an international testing and certification body. No remarks on affiliation have been made.

Hard to say.

Almot wrote:
There is also H4 by Amphenol company in Germany...
TUV protocol (of their H4 testing) is by Germans.

That last statement isn't in understandable English, so it's not clear what was meant. It was your response when it was pointed out that Amphenol wasn't German as you claimed, and seemed to be some kind of support for that claim. That's an issue with the writing, not the reading.

Got it. Thanks. I'm in the next couple of days going to be assembling everything except hooking up the panels. All wiring is run, but the panels won't be picked up till tomorrow when my friend gets them in Massachusetts. I'm in Texas, so the panels will be brought down in around a week and I should wrap it all up. I much appreciate all the advice and tips. I think I'm in the closing segment of this project.

I would think - yes, down the hole. You don't want much grease on the outside, will make handling it difficult. Mex is in tropics, much more harsh environment.

So Mex, I should coat the MC4 to T4 electrical connections with silicone grease. Since you can't actually get at the metal conductors themselves, I guess I would smear some down the holes and when pressed together it should cost the connection. Correct?

I use Weather Pak® connectors. They are submersible. Easy to disconnect. Weather Pak can use three pin sizes, 22-18 ga. 16-14 ga. or 12-10 gauge. Black. UV proof nylon. Incredible strength against accidental pull-apart. To disconnect, no tools needed. Use a finger under the tab and pull. Silicone grease makes this even easier.

The ONLY connectors that I consider to not need silicone grease, use GOLD plating. Copper, bronze, brass, tin and silver plating all tarnish meaning oxidize. When things become coated with oxide resistance goes up. And with these materials oxidation keeps thickening. I have seen tinned wire and tinned terminals turn black. Tin oxide.