What do I do with a 12v plug that won't fit in the socket?

Is the problem in only one receptacle or many receptacles?

I've been using the same 90 watt DC to dC laptop car adapter for 6 years. PWR+ brand. 22$, and have results proving it is significantly more efficient than powering an inverter to power the original power brick, and more so when doing light internetting with a full laptop battery.

The only issue with it was the Ciggy plug overheating and melting its surrounding plastic.

No more issues once I cut it off and installed 30 amp Anderson Powerpoles. The 15/30 and 45 amps versions are all the same size and interconnect with each other. I now just buy 45s for everything and right at this moment one connector is passing 40 amps and are 106.5 degrees. 45's are harder to crimp properly without their special tool for doing so, 30's and 15's can be crimped with a simple dimple crimper.

I do have the Blueseas 12v receptacle and plug. They are definitely higher quality than most 12v plugs and receptacles. I never bothered installing them in the my Van though.

Here is a 12v receptacle that is claiming a rating of 20 amps:

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Outlet/dp/B00FBY3WPK/ref=pd_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41QedQYKLqL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0CNEFZJMDA3G3WKTDTR0

Just realize their limitations. I have 7 different 12v ciggy receptacles wired with 10 or 12AWG, and none of them are ever asked to pass more than 1.3 amps.

The 90 watts this laptop can sometimes pull is simply too much for long term use of a ciggy plug and receptacle. Why waste battery power heating spring steel?

Why waste battery power running an inverter to convert DC to AC then back to DC?

INverters are a necessary evil, and I will try to bypass their use whenever possible, and this DC to DC laptop car adapter with ciggy plug cut off, is by far the best energy saver I employ, other than using LEDs in place of incandescent lighting. Number 3 energy saver is extra insulation on my 12v compressor fridge and the extremely efficient fan sucking cool filtered air from the floor and blowing it through condenser, once, with no chance to recycle.

NO way in heck would I ever consider using the original powerbrick on one of my 2 inverters. The extra energy used would be enough to power my compressor fridge. When i am plugged in I don;t even use the original power brick, letting my Meanwell power supply take over.

My original 115Vac to 19vDC power brick only comes out when I fly cross country, and the **** thing gets way hotter than my DC to DC car adapter ever does.

Here are some Pics showing SAE 12v connectors next to 30 amp anderson powerpoles:


Here is the Blue seas 12v receptacle:


Here is the inside of the 12v plug where one 'might' be able to shoehorn 12AWG wire:



One thing to note is the Ciggy plugs have fuses in them rated to protect the wire leaving the plug. If cutting the plug off one effectively removes the fuse and the wire protection from there to powerbrick.

pianotuna wrote:
Hi Naio,

Apple user? No modified sine wave for you. Gotta have psw.

I'd be cautious with the dc to dc power brick for the computer. I'd definitely compare the output from it to the 120 volt power supply that comes with your computer.

What make of 12 volt power brick did you purchase?

Naio wrote:
No inverter because I killed 2 laptops that way.

No Apple.

How do I check the output accurately? You mean voltage or amps or ??? Not sure I can get a good reading from voltmeter off that little plug.

Also, do you have any idea what actually happened with my msw use? The computer charged off it fine, but a few weeks later, on shore power with same AC charger, it died. Not suspecting the charger, I shifted over to backup computer (uses same charger). Another instant death. So the MSW did something to my charger, something that took a few weeks of use on AC to manifest.

This is why I am now paranoid. If I add some blade connectors, and my crimping/soldering is not perfect, might I again have power quality that is bad in some mysterious way and kills another puter?

Edit: I bought the ONLY 12v charger I have found in the past year that suits my puter. It's a PWR+ brand.

Naio wrote:
No inverter because I killed 2 laptops that way.

No trouble with the inverter I recommend, GoPower brand sine wave.
But any sine wave should be fine.

Hi Naio,

Apple user? No modified sine wave for you. Gotta have psw.

I'd be cautious with the dc to dc power brick for the computer. I'd definitely compare the output from it to the 120 volt power supply that comes with your computer.

What make of 12 volt power brick did you purchase?

Naio wrote:
No inverter because I killed 2 laptops that way.

Wow, I had no idea there was so much pent up frustration with 12v plugs here! I can see why...

No inverter because I killed 2 laptops that way.

The Anderson connectors I have are huge, but I have some little blade connectors I could put on.

What I have done on occasion only out of complete desperation was to take a piece of string and wrap it one the sort parallel section of the plug body just before the side springs. You do this by holding the loose end of the string so it does not interfere with those springs. Then you keep wrapping and trying and when you can force the plug into the mouse hole, put on one more turn and push harder. This usually last as couple of days at best, then add another turn.

I used to do a lot of boat electrics work before the depression, one owner called me to his boat and asked what I would do about those. I showed him that both my boat and the coach that was my mobile workshop had gold pin round connectors. He had me do that for his boat.

I loath, detest and despise DC mouse holes......
They would qualify as a complete POS, but there are things missing.

Matt

Go with small inverter.

I've tried what you're trying with computer, and it doesn't work well, or for long.

Do you perchance know MEX? At first I thought this was one of his posts. You two would make excellent camping buddies! :B

I, umm, added a 12 volt charging center in the photo below. Says right on it it will do a whopping 10 amps... I only added it because I relocated some switches and needed something to fill the hole. I did run some new wire back to the converter tho. (12 ga. IIRC). DW uses the charging center for charging her phone and running our Verizon hotspot. No smoke yet. :) Actually, I might take out the cig. lighter plug and add another USB outlet.

landyacht318 wrote:
Junk Junk absolutely contemptible Junk.

Smash them with a hammer. Instant failure is so much more satisfying than a long prolonged death by heat and increasing resistance.

Ciggy plugs are Junk. Do not ask them to pass more than 60 watts continuously, and after much time passing 60 watts, don't pull the plug and put the spring loaded tip on your skin, unless you are a masochist and already have a forearm filled with cigarette burns and tattoos. If it is not hot enough to burn, give it a few more months passing 60 watts here and there. It is just a matter of time. Junk!!

Take your hammer and smash the Ciggy plug whilst chanting colorful curses. When nothing but pieces remain, Collect them and repeat with a bigger hammer.

When these are too small to keep smashing with a hammer, bust out the WD-40 and a lighter. When the room's oxygen is depleted to such a low level and WD-40 fumes threaten your consciousness so much so that you get lightheaded, bust out the hammer again.

Seriously.

smkettner wrote:
RV 12v cigar connectors are a size smaller than what you see in the car.
I have modified the plugs but eventually just installed a small inverter to run off the regular outlets.

x2

I think it has to do with the amperage available at that outlet. Old fashioned actual cigar lighter ports provided a lot of amps, to run the heating element. More modern 12v accessory outlets are usually limited to 5-7, maybe 10 amps if you're lucky. The outlet is supposed to not accept an actual cigar lighter device.