This is a 12-24v Dc or 115vAC fridge. If plugged into both, it chooses 115v and switches over to DC automatically when no grid power or AC power is available.
https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us/products/food-and-beverage/coolers/electric-coolers/dometic-cf-35-_-140221#specifications
You DO NOT want to run this from an inverter, as it is made to run on 12 to 24vDC. It will be ~15%+ more efficient if you do not use an inverter to power it, due to inverter efficiency losses and the fact that the inverter, with a few exceptions, remains on the whole time, consuming a significant amount of electricity even when the fridge motor is not running, which it does 15 to 20 minutes per hour or so.
The issue with powering a portable 12vDC fridge is the Ciggy plug/12v receptacle. They are ubiquitous, but a very poor electrical connection that is highly unreliable, and gets worse the more wattage it is asked to pass and the duration of time in which it passed that current.
The Dometic either uses a Danfoss compressor or a newer Waeco compressor, which appears visibly very similar with the Danfoss/Secop as well as having similar specs.
In the Danfoss manual, regarding the recommended wire gauge , there is nothing less than 12AWG accceptable. Yet the ciggy plug cords come with a few feet of 16AWG.
The 12c ciggy 12v/ powerport receptacle this undersided wire is plugged into, is likely also not wired with very thick wire, contributing to more resistance on the power cord.
While if the ciggy plug does not work its way loose, this resistive circuit might only cause the fridge to shut down automatically, to save he battery, when the battery could still safely power it for significantly longer. The voltage drop on that thin circuit has the fridge see lower voltage, and assume the battery is more depleted than it actually is.
Ideally, with one of these chest style portable fridges not actively in portable mode, one would wire it right to the battery with its own fuse, with 10AWG, or thicker, and not use the provided ciggy plug at all, if possible.
The inverter wired to battery terminals powering the DC fridge via its 115vAC ability would be byassing the horrible 12v powerort/ ciggy plug receptacle, and is the ONLY time it makes sense to do so, when the ciggy plug has failed and one has not yet had time to repair it.
http://files.danfoss.com/TechnicalInfo/Dila/06/bd35-50f_electronic_unit_ac-dc_04-2009_ei100g402.pdfThe link above shows a danfoss bd35f compressor and has the chart that does not list anything thinner than 12awg as acceptable. Yet every portable 12vDC fridge comes with teh ciggy plug, and no thicker than 16AWG wire.
The spec sheet for your Dometic cf35 says it can pull 70 watts, which the Danfoss BD35f can also consume when it is at higher rpm as it can go from 2000 to 3500 rpm. Your portable will vary this rpm automatically, but it will pull the maximum 70watts on initial cool downs, and perhaps when a bunch of warm items are placed within.
Do not expect a Ciggy plug to be reliable long term when the fridge is working hard to keep things cool. The Ciggy plug will, without doubt, fail at some point, and spoil your food. Disregard the claims by those who have not yet reached that point. There are some sill faithful to this ubiquitous antique connection.
If I owned a new portable instead of an upright, I would use 45 Anderson powerpoles as the connector, with 10AWG leads. I would bypass the original DC connection/cord on the portable fridge body entirely, and feed this 10AWG through a side vent if necessary, right to compressor controller + and - DC inputs via some piggy back quick connectors.
On the other side of the 45 amp anderson powerpole connector, more 10AWG right to battery terminals with a 15 amp fuse 7 inches from battery + terminal.
Some might just cut the original DC cord close to the connector on portable fridge body and splice 10AWg into this, but it might cause warranty issues on new units, if required.
Some portable fridges marketers also sell an additional optional wiring product that is way more reliable than the standard ciggy plug, in order to bypass the ciggy plug. Buth these are usually very overpriced for what they are.
If they sell extra DC power cords, keep one for true portable temporary duty, and splice 10AWG into the other cord for longer term useage, and then no potential warranty issues.
One other option is feeding adequate girth wires right to the DC connector on fridge body rather than getting an additional cord or cutting the original, but there can be all sorts of issues with this method too.
Anyway, No inverter for this DC fridge, unless the original dc cord has failed and has not been fixed/eliminated yet.
Eliminate the inevitable 12v powerport ciggy plug/receptacle failure, by eliminating them from the equation, sooner rather than later, or at least have the back up plan and parts available for when that connector does fail.
