What's the fridge flame supposed to look like ?

I get it, but as I've mentioned before, this probe is completely loose: see pix. Also notice the notch in the probe. It was dead Jim.... Chris has seen more than me so I don't know if this is salt erosion, heat, or both.

I still hear an occasional backfire when buttoned up, so I think I'll call the vendor and work on exchanging it. The original factory burner did this and I couldn't fix it

What's curious it pic #3. Dunno what the residue is from
POSITION 1


AND VERY LIGHT PRESSURE DOES THIS

As far as back firing goes, my money is still on Chris. The sparker also acts as a sensor (at least the ones I've worked on.)

I would also make sure the high intensity wire is clean on both ends and always has continuity with a meter when you twist that wire a little.

John&Joey wrote:
Might just as well add my 2c's. Go up on the roof of the rig with a leaf blower. Take both covers off and then shoot some air down the shaft. Make sure no one is standing near the bottom panel when all the **** comes flying out.

You're near salt water, the flue has metal in it, and a nice blue flame with an OEM burner has tips of yellow here and there. Thinking you got some very fine stuff falling into that flame when you're sending a stream of hot air up the flue.

For the shutting off, I would always do what Chris says first.

Yep, Salt will do that because it doesn't burn. Its already had a blowout when the burner was out. My primary concern once I can keep the thing lit is the occasional backfireing I see

Chris Bryant wrote:
I'll say again, electrode adjustment. That can cause all of the problems you are seeing.

its loose in its insulator I can move it anywhere I want with very slight pressure. Waiting for Package Man... Stby

Might just as well add my 2c's. Go up on the roof of the rig with a leaf blower. Take both covers off and then shoot some air down the shaft. Make sure no one is standing near the bottom panel when all the **** comes flying out.

You're near salt water, the flue has metal in it, and a nice blue flame with an OEM burner has tips of yellow here and there. Thinking you got some very fine stuff falling into that flame when you're sending a stream of hot air up the flue.

For the shutting off, I would always do what Chris says first.

I'll say again, electrode adjustment. That can cause all of the problems you are seeing.

Either thermocoupler, or loose electrical connection to thermocoupler?

O-Boye ... :(

My meter arrived today....
Pressure is dead on at 11", but now the thing is shutting off about 60sec into startup. It's been trying to respark itself so maybe the thermocouple is wonky. It's definitely loose in the bracket

Yes, exact factory replacement. Waiting for the pressure gauge to show up to check that next

SCVJeff wrote:
This is a brand new burner assy. I've cleaned the old one but waiting for my meter to show up to make sure the regulator is behaving before calling the vendor back again. Hopefully by the end of the week

So this is a brand new burner tube, that was my question, if that is the case the slots in the tube regulate the propane flow. Is the tube the same as your old one? When I was trying to find a replacement for mine I noticed some tubes had an extra slot. If your tube is an exact replacement I would look more at the propane delivery system, (gas valve, orifice).