What you need to know if you buy a macerator

We have a Noco Boost 2000 to power our macerator. We have that one as a charger for our diesel truck in case we need it when camping in freezing temps.

NOTE I have a portable that ... Well.

It hooks directly to the RV. no hose between it and the RV just a short hard clear "extension" so no leakage issues.

Works well when I use it.

2oldman wrote:
And as the pic above shows, connect it to a small battery. Macs draw a lot of power and get hot. My wires are barely a foot long.

My wires are 30 feet long so I can use them to power not only the macerator, but a 12v air compressor I set by the wheels. However, it is 10g wire.

2oldman wrote:
And as the pic above shows, connect it to a small battery. Macs draw a lot of power and get hot. My wires are barely a foot long.

Suggestions on battery? I will only use macerator intermittently when I am staying on family farm.

I normally dump the black tank first. The way my rv is set up I can raise the outlet hose to a level above the tank levels, then open both valves to allow my gray water to back flush into the black tank. Then close the gray water valve and dump the black again. After this, I finish by draining the gray tank. I purposely try to end my stay with a lot of water in the gray tank to help accomplish this.

I hope this is clear enough to understand. This is an easy way to get a little extra flush from the black tank. This actually has nothing to do with a macerator. I have done this for years. Seems to help when I don't have the time to hook up a flush hose or if I have people behind me waiting to dump.

My Macerator will not connect directly to the RV. I need a 5" extension to get below the bay then the macerator connects.
I use a clear plastic connection so I can see when the tank is empty on the rare occasion I use my portable Macerator.

ONE WORD OF CAUTION
The pump sufferes from "Sticksion" that is once it has been used if it sits for any period of time the impellers stick and the thing wont' run (Will pop the fuse in the handle) the solution is to look at the non-pump end of the motor. shaft has a slot in it take a flat tool (quarter works, or key, screwdriver or a flat metal bar) and give it a twist to break it free. then hook up and "go".

And as the pic above shows, connect it to a small battery. Macs draw a lot of power and get hot. My wires are barely a foot long.

We had a built in Macerator on a previous MH and frankly I miss it. It had pretty heavy duty hose and was hard wired. The downside to a permanently installed macerator is that despite leaving the valve open, nothing happens unless you activate the pump. So I installed a remote control with a key fob so I could dump remotely. If I was in the camper and on a extended stay, I would remain hooked up and dump the tanks from inside the RV if I noticed they were full. The other advantage was that my septic clean out at the house was about 50' away from the driveway and it allowed me to clean and flush my tanks in the RV at home without driving through the grass.

I connect my Sanicon Turboo 300 directly to the outlet pipe on the RV - -

NRALIFR wrote:
If possible, connect the macerator directly to the RV sewage pipe without a flexible hose.

:):)

I was about to say the same.