Where is my hot water heater drain located

[N-Trouble]

I have an Atwood 10Gal DSI on my new trailer. Looking though the Atwood manual there are a couple of sketches of different models but I couldn't find one that looked exactly like mine.

I believe it is the thing on the bottom with the plastic cap with the letter "N" on it in green. Took a crescent wrench to it and could not get the plastic plug to move. Just wanted someone to confirm if this is the drain before I go wrenching on it again.

[opnspaces]

I used to tighten mine down with a socket. Now I only put it in finger tight. It has never vibrated loose or leaked.

[DutchmenSport]

My first camper was a Dutchmen. It had a plastic drain plug (6 gallon). One of the first things I did was get some extra plugs. I replaced the plug every Spring with a new one. I drained every trip, so that kept it from being so tight. Once you get it out, it does not have to be "that" tight. Get extras. After you get it off, go to Lowe's or Home Depot and take it with you so you can match. Extras will come in handy.

[wa8yxm]

Let me make it simple.. It has a bit letter N on it, just below the tube that carries the gas to the burner.

That is an Atwood, so it is a nylon plug 1/2" IPT thread.

[haddy1]

The next time that you are at a RV parts store, be sure to pick up a couple of spare plugs. They do fail from time to time. Whatever you do, don't replace it with a metal (especially steel) plug.

[jfkmk]

Yes, that's the drain. You can relieve any pressure first by lifting the pressure/thermal relief valve.

[RoyB]

On the SUBURBAN model that I have here the bottom port is where the sacrificial anode is located. The ATWOOD models don't have one of these anodes rods.


In my case I remove my anode rod and drain all the water out of the hot water heater in the early fall time frame and inspect the Artificial Anode for replacement. This is when I flush out the sediments in the bottom of the water heater...

I normally drain my hot water heater thru the trailer low water point when camping using the blow-out 12VDC compressor connected to the city water port making sure the hot water bypass valves are in the correct position and also that the hot water heater pressure relief valve is in its open position. ALso having the hot water spigot at the sink open helps draining through the low water point on the trailer. AFter all of the water has been drained from the low point water valve then I add the pink stuff to the couple of P-traps I have on my trailer.

All of the water comes out of the hot water heater doing this method but in case it freezes up it has alot of room for expansion inside the hot water heater and has not done any damage here where I live in Northern Neck VA where we don't really have long periods of freezing temps. Usually warms back up the next day when it happens...

We like to be able to drain the fresh water tank and blow out the internal water lines including the hot water heater using the blow out method when camping in the late fall time frame when it may get down to freezing overnight. The day when it warms back up we just add back the fresh water water and continue on camping.

This is what we do - I'm sure others have a different solution...

Do what works best for you and your situation and location.

Roy Ken

[BruceMc]

Correct - it is the nylon plug labeled with a green N. Use a socket or box end of your wrench. I use a 6 point socket on mine.
Use thread tape when re-installing it so you don't have to torque it down to keep it from leaking.

[cmoecmoe]

Yes... That should be your drain.

[downtheroad]

Here ....the plug may be nylon like this one or metal...depending on your water heater...

[N-Trouble]

Sorry images appear rotated. First pic is rotated 90* to left and second one is upside down.