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Where to buy a replacement fridge?

joeburnes
Explorer
Explorer
My 3 way fridge just went out in my 5'er. I need to know where to buy a residential (AC only) version to put in its place. Tried searching the forums, but "refrigerator" brings up WAY too many results. lol
The hole I'm working with is 5*2*2. Is there a way to search based on size? Is there a goto retailer that everybody uses when this situation comes up?
Remember: If you light a man a fire, he's warm for one night....but, if you light a man ON fire, he's warm for the rest of his life!
15 REPLIES 15

joeburnes
Explorer
Explorer
Thank you all for the great advice!
Remember: If you light a man a fire, he's warm for one night....but, if you light a man ON fire, he's warm for the rest of his life!

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
The SLIGHTEST forced convection ELIMINATES the need for that 5" gap. From experience not theory.

brulaz
Explorer
Explorer
MrWizard wrote:
My fridge draws about 90w running
But it has a 900w start up surge, that requires a good inverter mounted reasonably close to the batteries with proper gauge wire


If your frig only runs about a third of the time (and ignoring start up watts), that would roughly agree with the Avanti's EnergyStar rating of 251 kWh per year.
2014 ORV Timber Ridge 240RKS,8500#,1250# tongue,44K miles
690W Rooftop + 340W Portable Solar,4 GC2s,215Ah@24V
2016 Ram 2500 4x4 RgCab CTD,2507# payload,10.8 mpgUS tow

brulaz
Explorer
Explorer
Some info I've picked up on the web:

The Avanti RA7306/16 7.4 cu ft frig has an EnergyStar rating of only 251 kWh. But they also advertise it as "free standing" and the installation instructions recommend a 5" gap on either side, raising the total width needed to 31.5". Not sure how important this is.

The Whirlpool WRT111 10.7 cu ft has an EnergyStar rating of 301 kWh and only requires 0.5" on either side; so the total width needed is only 26.5". But it's also taller and deeper than the Avanti.
2014 ORV Timber Ridge 240RKS,8500#,1250# tongue,44K miles
690W Rooftop + 340W Portable Solar,4 GC2s,215Ah@24V
2016 Ram 2500 4x4 RgCab CTD,2507# payload,10.8 mpgUS tow

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Wal-Fart down here has a cute separate door refrigerator freezer roughly the same size as an 8CF NotCool gas unit. About eqvt $240.00

Going to buy that for the stick & brick. Then a Haier 12CF chest freezer for $288.00

Then buy $200 worth of frozen goods and drive home like a madman for 2 hours. Everything wrapped in Space Blankets.

You have not experienced "CRUDE-ZINE" until you have masticated Mexican buckshot, I mean peas or corn.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
My fridge draws about 90w running
But it has a 900w start up surge, that requires a good inverter mounted reasonably close to the batteries with proper gauge wire
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
No
You install the inverter close too the batteries
And run a new circuit for the 120v to the fridge

The existing 12v wiring is to small for the inverter

The 100+ running Watts , a small 1 amp at 120v is a small easy load of 10 amps 12v into the inverter
It's the 900 Watts compressor start up surge, that means you can't use the existing wiring
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

joeburnes
Explorer
Explorer
So would you install the inverter behind the fridge and use the 12v wire that already exists? And then I assume you would use the outside access panel to unplug the fridge from the "wall" and plug it into the inverter whenever necessary?
Remember: If you light a man a fire, he's warm for one night....but, if you light a man ON fire, he's warm for the rest of his life!

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Most of us with residential fridge
Have an inverter big enough to run it
New RV's with residential fridge come with inverter and batteries
Most of us doing the change add those items
Yes, if you are not driving ten hours in 100F heat, you can get by with out it, for only a 2 - 4 hour drive
But most of us prefer to add enough to at least be able to keep the fridge cold when stopped over night in route, or for a weekend of dry camping
It's all about Your camping style
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

joeburnes
Explorer
Explorer
ScottG wrote:
I think it's worth it to look for an Energy Star rated fridge as well.
Since you will have to run it off the rigs battery's from time to time this will make sure it can run as long as possible on a charge.


Pardon my ignorance, but how would you run it off the battery if it's AC? I just assumed it would be off during travel between places with electricity.
Remember: If you light a man a fire, he's warm for one night....but, if you light a man ON fire, he's warm for the rest of his life!

joeburnes
Explorer
Explorer
talotto wrote:
Look at a Whirlpool WRT111. That's what I replaced mine with, same dimensions. The door will stick out a little more but a much better unit overall. I think there is a Haier model that will also fit. If you research, look for "apartment refrigerators" or "dorm refrigerators". It helps that I live in a college town.


That model is at the top of my list already. lol Good to know you like it.
Remember: If you light a man a fire, he's warm for one night....but, if you light a man ON fire, he's warm for the rest of his life!

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
I think it's worth it to look for an Energy Star rated fridge as well.
Since you will have to run it off the rigs battery's from time to time this will make sure it can run as long as possible on a charge.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Look up 'Avanta' apartment size fridge, 56" tall, 21.5" wide
Thats what I replaced my single wide NorCold with
When my NorCold blew up, been 7 years running this summer
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
IF you want a Sticks and Bricks source, I'd go with Best Buy, for they often are.

However, on the RV 3way there are only so many things that can go wrong and all are fairly easily fixed

Main component is the Absorption Cooling Uint (Amish built cooling units replace them and get good reviews by others.. I have no personal experience so no opinion)

Control board (Dinosaur boards are very high quality, if they make one for your unit)

Relays (AC/DC) or Solenoids (Gas) Relays may be part of control board, or separate

ELements (AC/DC) burner (GAS (often a spider nests in 'em and simnple cleaning is all that is needed)

Thermocouple (Gas)

Empty propane tank (Gas)

Most of this stuff is easy to replace. only the cooling unit takes special skill/tools.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times