Which Progressive Dynamics Converter/Charger To Buy

I once had him try and tell me that two spanking new group 31 TPPL agms in parallel could not accept more than 75 amps when depleted to a resting 12.19v over 0 gauge wiring.

When the hundred amp, physically larger and heavier unit finally arrived, those batteries ,depleted to same rested voltage, accepted 97 amps for close to 45 minutes before voltage rose to 14.7 and amps began to taper.

People recommend what is best for their bottom line/job security and or what strokes their ego.

Honor and max profit are now diametrically opposed.

The well Informed customer needs no recommendations from product purveyor, and can only hope the product meets its performance claims.

The uninformed customer hopes and prays and likely shuns collecting data with the proper tools and efforts to collect it, and calls it faith.

At least he did not recommend a replacement wfco saying they now fixed the inability to seek a voltage other than 13.6v.

A novice giving advice is not employed long :) Even at a part store, Sear, or wherever. Best for them to be controlled by beepers and buzzers and have the cash register have pictures rather than numbers.

I have read some of Randy's comments and they are not based on a amateur's guesswork. While no converter or charger can be hand's off the ones with absorbsion are infinitely better than guesswork or serial battery killers.

RobWNY wrote:

RJsfishin wrote:
If the boondocker doesn't give you manual control over the charging stages, then the PD w/ wizard would have been a better choice,......no matter Randy !

I took Randy at Bestconverters advice. He is spoken very highly of here on this this forum and elsewhere. Like most people that boondock or do any kind of camping really, I spend my time doing a variety of things. Standing by and monitoring my batteries is not going to be one of them. Having an automatic system is just fine for me.

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Well what you just said is that its ok to fire up your genset and watch it charge 20 amps, while you could be charging 40 And that's ok because its your time, and your genset and your fuel. But remember that Randy is the same Randy that`kept selling us those junk Wfco converters long after he knew they were junk and had a terrible failure rate !

RJsfishin wrote:
If the boondocker doesn't give you manual control over the charging stages, then the PD w/ wizard would have been a better choice,......no matter Randy !

I took Randy at Bestconverters advice. He is spoken very highly of here on this this forum and elsewhere. Like most people that boondock or do any kind of camping really, I spend my time doing a variety of things. Standing by and monitoring my batteries is not going to be one of them. Having an automatic system is just fine for me.

Battery In Wonderland :)

A battery that seldom gets cycled and is maintained as you describe will have gray whiskers at its funeral. I would be heavily tempted to go with the least hassle battery on the market -- a Costco because of their near crazy liberal return policy. Keep an eye on the water level; it should need little of any. Float voltage will be on the low side. if your seasonal temperature varies little then temp compensation will be minimal. But 100F in the summer and -20F in the winter demands a more rigid temperature (voltage) variation.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:


Sizing the battery bank to gain a full advantage is also demanded. The compromise is weight.

Wanderer,

off the OP topic, we have a Progressive 9280, and it is getting time for me to replace batteries.

We do not boondock whatsoever; we travel from pedestal-to-pedestal, and remove batteries and keep them on a Deltran battery tender during the winter.

We use a residential reefer, with a placarded 3 Amp (running, with probably a 30%-40% duty cycle), using a Magnum CSW2012-X Pure Sine Wave Inverter to power the reefer while driving. We currently use 2 Centennial DP24MFS which are 60AH @20 hour.

I usually see about 12.4v - 12.7v on the Magnum inverter panel after an 8-10 hour driving day prior to making the pedestal hookup for the night.

I am going to move to the Duracell AGM Marine Battery - Group Size 27M, with a 92AH @20 hour rating.

Do you have any recommendations based upon our normal use and intended purchase?

If the boondocker doesn't give you manual control over the charging stages, then the PD w/ wizard would have been a better choice,......no matter Randy !

Even though the decision has been made, a lot of weight has to be thrown at two areas.

• Your vacation type. How you spend or not vacations away from a power pedestal
• How fast your converter can recover the batteries when connected to a power pedestal

For example, if your batteries are AGM, you cycle them on vacation, return home then connect them you a WFCO their lifespan will be short and ugly

Connect wet batteries to a WFCO they'll end up sulfated and useless.

It's either yes or no, can the converter recharge to batteries be recharged to 100% in a reasonable amount of time before they sulfate?

Like anything else to do with batteries, the answer does not come easily. The longer they spend under-charged, the deeper the cycling makes all the difference in the world.

Batteries that endure shallow cycling, fare better. Batteries that endure less time partially charged fare better.

Batteries that endure don't give a **** ignorance also endure no mid-life crisis because they are dead,

Batteries demand a full charge periodically. Perhaps lithium chemistry is different. But <1% of RV'ers have lithium batteries.

Recharge batteries properly and it would be very usual to enjoy a 300% gain in lifespan.

There is NO question that obeying the demands of AGM battery recharging to 100% full is significantly easier as compared to any flooded battery. Controlled voltage and the presence of a panel voltmeter and ammeter are necessary. Intelligence choosing the correct mixture of generator and solar is also necessary to gain full benefit.

Sizing the battery bank to gain a full advantage is also demanded. The compromise is weight.

I was able to get through to Randy at Bestconverter. He recommended the Boondocker BD1260CL to replace what I have. Happened to be cheaper than the Progressive Dynamics models and also on sale. Purchase made. Thanks everyone for your thoughts.

the first limitation you may run into is likely driven by your generator.

A 2000W generator will run a 60A PD fine, 75A or bigger is a possible issue with a generator overload at full current. The PD units have a bad power factor and draw more current than you calculate from the watts rating. A 100A is definitely a no no with a 2000W generator.

If you have a 1000W or so generator stay with the 45A.

A 3000W or so generator, no issues.

I have 4 GC batteries and what I did was replace the WFCO with a 55A PD unit and added a 75A PD deck mount in the pass through and wired it off a seperate breaker.

So.... when boondocking with one honda 2000 I use the 55A to charge, if I happen to have the honda 2000's paralleled I turn both on and get about 120A into the bank when deep discharged. speeds up the charging to 80% or so.