Which replacement fridge?

fordsrv wrote:
Hello there,

The best thing would to be replace with an exact model. Might have to remodel if you buy somthing different. Also, what happened to the old refrigerator? I'm a refrigeration tech and would like to know because a lot of times a refrigerator can be fixed no matter the problem. Even boiler leaks can be fixed.

Yes, anything can be fixed, but at what cost and feasibility. Age and condition have a lot to do with that.
As far as "remodeling" to install something different, many manufacturers have addressed that in an effort to get marketshare. I've replaced dual voltage refrigerators with different brands and the mounting holes even matched. I don't know if a dual voltage one would be a plug in for a gas absorption version, but everyone publishes cutout requirements for installation and it wouldn't surprise me to find that those also are a swap. At any rate, all of that information is on the Internet to help with those decisions.

Hello there,

The best thing would to be replace with an exact model. Might have to remodel if you buy somthing different. Also, what happened to the old refrigerator? I'm a refrigeration tech and would like to know because a lot of times a refrigerator can be fixed no matter the problem. Even boiler leaks can be fixed.

Hello there,

The best thing would to be replace with an exact model. Might have to remodel if you buy somthing different. Also, what happened to the old refrigerator? I'm a refrigeration tech and would like to know because a lot of times a refrigerator can be fixed no matter the problem. Even boiler leaks can be fixed.

Almot wrote:
Not to mention that most of them are 28-30" or wider, and a typical LP fridge of trailer of 5-er has 25" enclosure. When you will eventually find a 120V fridge ~7 cu.ft or bigger, under 26" width and super-efficient (for 120V unit anyway), it will be way over $299.

Running amps are 1 amp at 120v for my $299 10.1 cu ft residential fridge. It is 24" wide, 25" deep and 59" high (just like the 6 cu ft Norcold that I had replaced). There are many brands of cheap residential fridges with these same specs (not rare at all) The best part: it fit through the door :)

bob_b wrote:
Those AC/DC fridges are nice, however $1300 can buy three or four residential fridges. I paid $299 for mine. I paid almost as much again for the inverter ...

Here you go. 120V res fridges are for 120V hook-ups living. Getting it for offgrid camping is a cheaper but not really a good solution. You will have inverter overhead, and 120V fridge itself will draw bit more than comparable size 12V fridge because of high start-up current. Even without inverter losses, to come even close to the efficiency of 12V fridge, a 120V residential has to be a decent and modern model, and those cost more. Not to mention that most of them are 28-30" or wider, and a typical LP fridge of trailer of 5-er has 25" enclosure. When you will eventually find a 120V fridge ~7 cu.ft or bigger, under 26" width and super-efficient (for 120V unit anyway), it will be way over $299.

Though this all is not what the OP asked, and he probably stopped reading after the first few off-topic responses :)... Now, I don't know whether a propane Dometic is better than his defunct Norcold, but given somewhat weaker reputation of Norcold and roughly same prices, I would go for Dometic.

Those AC/DC fridges are nice, however $1300 can buy three or four residential fridges. I paid $299 for mine. I paid almost as much again for the inverter, switching and wiring (but I enjoy those kinds of projects). If I had the extra money and I just wanted to get it 'over with', the ones with 12V compressor would be a good replacement.

I had to replace my rv refrigerator too I called rv dealer for prices they had crazy prices.I call PPL Motorhome in Texas I saves hundreds.It was delivered to my door by truck I gave they the model number got the same refrigerator .ez to change out

Bob Landry wrote:

MrWizard wrote:
This... Ac/DC fridge No propane

http://www.adventurerv.net/norcold-builtin-acdc-de0061t-refrigeratorfreezer-truckmarine-p-1217.html?utm_campaign=partsfeed_ppc&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=Froogle&gclid=CLzvvdzLoL4CFcRafgodPScAKQ

This is my choice if and when my gas fridge goes south. We only camp in parks with hookups.

Yes. Either this, or Novakool RFU-6200 or RFU-6800. Or one of side by side Novakool RFS models. Make sure it fits in your cabinet and preferably leaves an inch or two for added block-foam insulation.

Before jumping on this bandwagon, consider what Bob says: We only camp in parks with hookups. Mr. Wizard is offgrid but he has pretty big solar array. Any of these models will be 25-30% more efficient than comparable size 120v residential fridge, but without solar it's still a burden if you dry-camp. About 70 Ah on a hot day.


For hookup-only camping you might want to shop around for 120V residential fridge, could be cheaper.

MrWizard wrote:
This... Ac/DC fridge No propane



http://www.adventurerv.net/norcold-builtin-acdc-de0061t-refrigeratorfreezer-truckmarine-p-1217.html?utm_campaign=partsfeed_ppc&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=Froogle&gclid=CLzvvdzLoL4CFcRafgodPScAKQ

This is my choice if and when my gas fridge goes south. We only camp in parks with hookups. The only time it would need 12V is when traveling and the truck alternator will support the battery while traveling and the battery would be OK for overnighting in a rest stop. The Norcold boxes are OK. I sell quite a few Vitrofrigos and my customers like them. So do I.
All of the dual voltage fridges are going to use the Danfoss compressor systems and you can't go wrong with those.

This... Ac/DC fridge No propane



http://www.adventurerv.net/norcold-builtin-acdc-de0061t-refrigeratorfreezer-truckmarine-p-1217.html?utm_campaign=partsfeed_ppc&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=Froogle&gclid=CLzvvdzLoL4CFcRafgodPScAKQ