Winterize in Texas?

[dsmith3]

Good morning -

We will be taking delivery of our new Jay Flight 32 BHDS around end of December.

Here in Central Texas we camp year-round and deer season is Nov-Jan. During this time there will be cold fronts that can drop temps to the teens and 20s for a few days at a time.

My question is: how do folks in Texas protect their water lines from freezing since we don't have a long winter "off-season" like folks in severely cold climates?

Is simply opening up low-point drains to empty the lines adequate (and draining hot-water heater)? And then just fill up fresh water tank when we head out camping or to the deer lease? I've also read that some folks use compressed air (at a safe PSI) to clear the lines after draining. Of course, RV anti-freeze but that seems only reasonable if we will store for the entire winter season.

NOTE: our TT will have the Thermal package (heated and enclosed underbelly). I believe this is only effective when using the trailer since propane heater ducts keep tanks warmer and above freezing.

Many thanks,
Dave

[dougrainer]

dsmith3 wrote:
When winterizing using RV anti-freeze, are any steps required for the black tank flush?

I saw a video that mentioned this but no other videos, manuals, forums, etc. have mentioned the black tank flush and anti-freeze (at least that I've found).

As a reminder, we have a 2015 Jay Flight 32BHDS.

Many thanks,
Dave

Yes, you must blow it out to get the water out of the back flow valve. The back flow valve is usually mounted under the Lavy sink area or behind the shower faucet. Doug

[Kit_Carson]

mitchmitchell1616 wrote:
Hmm -- I'm going to be getting a Jayco TT soon in Texas, and I think I will be following the directions for blowing out the lines too. But what *is* a safe pressure for the air blow?

I usually use 40 PSI to blow out my lines.

[peirek]

jrnymn7 wrote:
dsmith3,

I would tend to think it better to open one faucet at a time, thus forcing the air to take that particular route. The air will take the path of least resistance, so if all faucets are open, it's possible some lines may not get properly blown out. Perhaps it would be best then, to open all faucets, blow out the huge majority of the water, then do each individual faucet, and then open all faucets and blow out again. And leave all faucets open for natural evaporation and zero line pressure.

This is the way I do it. A faucet at a time. Starting furthest from the inlet and working back and repeat. All faucets are left open in the end.

[JimB-MA]

We live in north Texas and just turn the furnace on for those nights that it is going to be below freezing for an extended period

[dsmith3]

When winterizing using RV anti-freeze, are any steps required for the black tank flush?

I saw a video that mentioned this but no other videos, manuals, forums, etc. have mentioned the black tank flush and anti-freeze (at least that I've found).

As a reminder, we have a 2015 Jay Flight 32BHDS.

Many thanks,
Dave

[Weldon]

d smith,
my trailer stays near Llano, Tx this time of year. If I am there and it is in the twenty's I disconnect the water supply hose and filter. D o use the furnace and electric heater. If I am not there, I drain all low point drains, open faucets, drain WH..drain grey, galley and all from black tank except maybe 3 gallons. Pour a small amount of rv anti freeze in p-traps. The only problem I have had was when I failed to put a towel inside the door of the outside shower connections.

[dsmith3]

Really appreciate all the comments. Thank you, all.

[jrnymn7]

dsmith3,

I would tend to think it better to open one faucet at a time, thus forcing the air to take that particular route. The air will take the path of least resistance, so if all faucets are open, it's possible some lines may not get properly blown out. Perhaps it would be best then, to open all faucets, blow out the huge majority of the water, then do each individual faucet, and then open all faucets and blow out again. And leave all faucets open for natural evaporation and zero line pressure.

[alfredmay]

dsmith3..... You have no choice. Either winterize after every winter use of the RV or keep the heat set so the pipes will never see freezing temps. Winterizing is like being pregnant ....... either it is or isn't.

If money is not a consideration, then setting the heat and keeping the propane tanks full might be the easiest option. You can also use an electric heater to supplement the heat, but you do want heat to run thru the floor from the furnace to keep pipes and tanks above freezing. Also remember that if you keep certain food, drinks and medicine in your RV they may require 32 degree or above storage.

I never found the taste of pink stuff very objectionable as it went away quickly. Bleach taste lasted longer after I sanitized the water system.

[martipr]

I agree with dsmith3 method except for the holding tanks and water heater. Even if you dump before leaving the campground it is practically impossible to be sure that the tanks are truly empty. I don't want to get home, open the black dump valve and dump any remaining black water. I don't mind the grey and galley tanks dumping on my RV pad so I will leave them open. I leave the black closed and add a 1/2 gallon or so of the pink stuff. I also drain the water heater.
We camp throughout the winter, any time we want to go, so any extensive winterizing-dewinterizing is not practical.
My TT has an enclosed heated underbelly so most years I don't do any winterizing at all. On the few nights it is forecast to freeze I just turn the furnace on and set the thermostat to a low temp and let it take care of the cold. Some nights I have even slept out there.

[dsmith3]

Just so I'm making myself clear to folks reading along...

My developing preference for "air method" over "RV anti-freeze" is based on convenience and practicality...not cost or anything against anti-freeze.

We will use our TT year-round (it will not be stored for the winter months) so it doesn't seem to make sense to winterize the fresh-water system with RV anti-freeze (other than the small amount poured in the P-traps and toilet). Otherwise our winter camping would be continuous cycle of winterize after use, de-winterize before use, winterize again when done, etc., etc. Is that what folks do?

I've read that it takes a long time (some report weeks) to get rid of the "anti-freeze" smell/taste from the fresh water system. Is there a problem with anti-freeze causing bad smell or taste to fresh water system? Does it require treatment (e.g., vinegar or bleach mixture) to eliminate the smell/taste before the fresh water tank can be filled up and used?

[aruba5er]

Froze the hose and busted the water filter in Big Bend Texas in January. I thought that was as far south as you could go. Global warming my butt.

[gbopp]

You may as well learn to winterize your RV.
The way winters have been lately, it won't be long until the people in Key West, Florida will be winterizing. 😞

[BB_TX]

mitchmitchell1616 wrote:
Hmm -- I'm going to be getting a Jayco TT soon in Texas, and I think I will be following the directions for blowing out the lines too. But what *is* a safe pressure for the air blow?

40-45 psi which is about the same as standard water pressure.