Forum Discussion
BFL13
Jun 05, 2018Explorer II
The voltage seen on the Tri is battery voltage, not the PD's voltage of 14.4. You will see 14.4 batt once the batts are full.
With the AGMs, once the correct charging voltage has been set, the Trimetric is mainly to see the amps fall to under 0.5a for each 100AH worth of battery bank. Once down to that, now you can declare the AGMs are full and reset the Tri AH counter to zero. The charge Wizard does let you keep it at 14.4 till then. Once they are full, you can also use the CW to put the voltage to 13.6 Float.
That is what the PD is best at, for its CW. Just too bad about the not-so-constant amps in Bulk.
Forget the bogus Tri advice about what "full" means, even if you have Flooded batts. IMO that will get you to just under true full, which is undercharging.
My AH counter gets over into the plus numbers by the time the batts are truly full, since the default charging efficiency is just approximate. ( I have not tried to adjust that default number as Tri allows for--another stick-house thing that is not so good in an RV)
With the AGMs, once the correct charging voltage has been set, the Trimetric is mainly to see the amps fall to under 0.5a for each 100AH worth of battery bank. Once down to that, now you can declare the AGMs are full and reset the Tri AH counter to zero. The charge Wizard does let you keep it at 14.4 till then. Once they are full, you can also use the CW to put the voltage to 13.6 Float.
That is what the PD is best at, for its CW. Just too bad about the not-so-constant amps in Bulk.
Forget the bogus Tri advice about what "full" means, even if you have Flooded batts. IMO that will get you to just under true full, which is undercharging.
My AH counter gets over into the plus numbers by the time the batts are truly full, since the default charging efficiency is just approximate. ( I have not tried to adjust that default number as Tri allows for--another stick-house thing that is not so good in an RV)
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