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Gear upgraded, 3.08 to 4.10

EnzoColorado
Explorer II
Explorer II
I just upgraded the gear in my Suburban from 3.08 to 4.10! Still need to go to a speedo shop to get the speedometer calibrated. First drive today, it's feels quite a bit more responsive though it's funny to see 95 mph on the speedo while still on the freeway entrance ramp. Can't wait until next camping trip in September to New Mexico to see how much better it tows.
2017 Starcraft AR-ONE MAXX 20BHLE
2012 Suburban 2500 LT 4WD
40 REPLIES 40

bfourman
Explorer
Explorer
EnzoColorado wrote:

OP here. I created a spreadsheet to calculate RPM at different speed (40 to 70 mph, increment of 10 mph) in different tranny gears with all the possible axle upgrade. That helped me to decide which one to upgrade. I'm coming from 3.08 so I had many options. If you want to PM me your email, I can email you my spreadsheet and you can change the numbers to match your vehicle.

If your Yukon is 4x4 you'll have to change from rear and front gear. That may affect the decision.


I can only use OD on flat ground, any grade and I'm pulling it down to 3rd. It seems happiest around 2800-3000 RPM and that is accomplished easiest in 3rd with the TC locked.

I used a calculator at Randy's Ring & Pinion to ballpark it, but I'll PM you my email.

It will be a junkyard axle swap for a couple of reasons. Cost is a factor, but in the process I can upgrade my semi-float rear 14 bolt to a full-float 14 bolt, which will carry the weight better. I am right at the line weight wise with my current setup and bigger is always better. It is 4x4, I'm aware of needing to change both. That won't be a issue, but I'll have to get with Blackbear for a re-tune.
'00 GMC Yukon XL K2500 - 6.0L, 4L80e, 3.73s, P3, AirLift, BlackBear tuned.
'14 Aerolite 282DBHS - Andersen No-Sway

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
bfourman wrote:
I have been milling around in my head whether or not it would be more effective to change gear ratio from 3.73 to 4.10 in my Yukon XL 2500 or to work on improving engine torque and HP at the RPMs I'm currently at. It would only be a 2-300 RPM change and I'm not sure that would be enough for my 4 speed trans to make a difference.


It made a huge difference in my V-10. I went from 3.73 to 4.30. 3rd gear runs about 400rpm higher but closer to where it's making its power. I never really could run in OD with the 3.73's. With the 4.30 I am able to run in OD with no issues. It only kicks into 3rd on the bigger hills. Worth every penny!
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

EnzoColorado
Explorer II
Explorer II
bfourman wrote:
I have been milling around in my head whether or not it would be more effective to change gear ratio from 3.73 to 4.10 in my Yukon XL 2500 or to work on improving engine torque and HP at the RPMs I'm currently at. It would only be a 2-300 RPM change and I'm not sure that would be enough for my 4 speed trans to make a difference.


OP here. I created a spreadsheet to calculate RPM at different speed (40 to 70 mph, increment of 10 mph) in different tranny gears with all the possible axle upgrade. That helped me to decide which one to upgrade. I'm coming from 3.08 so I had many options. If you want to PM me your email, I can email you my spreadsheet and you can change the numbers to match your vehicle.

If your Yukon is 4x4 you'll have to change from rear and front gear. That may affect the decision.
2017 Starcraft AR-ONE MAXX 20BHLE
2012 Suburban 2500 LT 4WD

shabbir.kothari@gmail.com

please pm me your spreadsheet and thank you so much for putting this together. i'm looking to move from 3.08 to 4.10 and dont know where to start my research

The post you are replying to is over seven years old from the old RV.Net days, you may want to PM the poster in hopes they are still around occasionally.  

2014 Wolf Creek 850SB
2012 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD 7,220# Truck/10,400# Camper Fully Loaded

wnjj
Explorer II
Explorer II
bfourman wrote:
I have been milling around in my head whether or not it would be more effective to change gear ratio from 3.73 to 4.10 in my Yukon XL 2500 or to work on improving engine torque and HP at the RPMs I'm currently at. It would only be a 2-300 RPM change and I'm not sure that would be enough for my 4 speed trans to make a difference.


It depends upon where you find you are lacking. For example, if your vehicle shifts in and out of overdrive on rolling hills or with a light headwind, that 2-300rpm may be the difference in keeping it in the higher gear. If you're looking to accelerate quicker onto the freeway, improving the engine may be the better option.

bfourman
Explorer
Explorer
I have been milling around in my head whether or not it would be more effective to change gear ratio from 3.73 to 4.10 in my Yukon XL 2500 or to work on improving engine torque and HP at the RPMs I'm currently at. It would only be a 2-300 RPM change and I'm not sure that would be enough for my 4 speed trans to make a difference.
'00 GMC Yukon XL K2500 - 6.0L, 4L80e, 3.73s, P3, AirLift, BlackBear tuned.
'14 Aerolite 282DBHS - Andersen No-Sway

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
wnjj wrote:
While there are some ratios that are similar after the gear swap, it matters which transmission gears you're talking about.

For example, using the numbers from the 3.08 column above, the jump from 2nd to 3rd is 50% a increase in road speed for a given RPM. The jump from 3rd to 4th is only 33%.

This means 3.08, 3rd gear is like 4.10, 4th gear (both ~4.84:1 overall ratio).

So if you're pulling a hill in 3rd with 3.08 and need to shift down to 2nd, your engine rev's 50% higher after the shift. With the 4.10 it's 33% shifting from 4th to 3rd. That's a closer spread for the same road speed and more desirable.


In short, it's not the same to simply "run a gear lower" because reality means there's only 1 or 2 transmission gears that actually matter when pulling a grade for a given speed with a given rear end gear ratio. What this also means is that lower rear gears may not automatically be better if it changes you to a shift point that is wider than where you were at before.


Exactly my point. a 200-300 jump in rpm can mean the difference in running in a higher gear but a lower rpm. everything works in harmony. the easier you make it work, the better everything works together. even the 6 speed autos.
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

wnjj
Explorer II
Explorer II
While there are some ratios that are similar after the gear swap, it matters which transmission gears you're talking about.

For example, using the numbers from the 3.08 column above, the jump from 2nd to 3rd is 50% a increase in road speed for a given RPM. The jump from 3rd to 4th is only 33%.

This means 3.08, 3rd gear is like 4.10, 4th gear (both ~4.84:1 overall ratio).

So if you're pulling a hill in 3rd with 3.08 and need to shift down to 2nd, your engine rev's 50% higher after the shift. With the 4.10 it's 33% shifting from 4th to 3rd. That's a closer spread for the same road speed and more desirable.


In short, it's not the same to simply "run a gear lower" because reality means there's only 1 or 2 transmission gears that actually matter when pulling a grade for a given speed with a given rear end gear ratio. What this also means is that lower rear gears may not automatically be better if it changes you to a shift point that is wider than where you were at before.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
larry barnhart wrote:
two brothers stopping at the alpenlite factory on their trip south. Both had the same fifths and trucks but one had the 4.10 and one had the 3.73.
The 4.10 always used 5 more gallons of gas at every fill up.

chevman
Something is wrong with one of the trucks.
Assuming they filled up at 25 gallon intervals that is a 20 percent difference.
No way normal between 4.10 & 3.73 towing.

RCMAN46
Explorer
Explorer
TurnThePage wrote:
RCMAN46 wrote:
TurnThePage wrote:
I took my old F150 4.6L from 3.55 to 4.10. It made a HUGE difference. Unloaded highway mileage took a 1 mpg hit, but city driving and towing both had improved mileage. Not only that, I could suddenly maintain speeds towing in the mountains, and not have to worry about the truck grinding to a halt on long, steep climbs, which nearly did happen previously. It could suddenly cruise on the highway without dropping out of overdrive because a slight headwind or incline. The truck was so much more enjoyable to drive too. In short, it's the best mod I ever did to that truck, and I did a lot of them.


What transmission did the old Ford have?
I believe it was the 4R70...


My original comment to the OP changing from a 3.08 to a 4.1 gear may make very little difference because of the gear spread in the GM 6 speed transmission.

If you compare the overall ratios you will find the ratios with the 3.08 are very close to the 4.1 if you compare ratios with the 3.08 down one gear in each case.

Thus after first gear there is very little change as you go up in gears until 6 th gear which is rarely used when towing with the 3.08.

With your change of gears and the Ford 4 speed that is not the case.

TurnThePage
Explorer
Explorer
RCMAN46 wrote:
TurnThePage wrote:
I took my old F150 4.6L from 3.55 to 4.10. It made a HUGE difference. Unloaded highway mileage took a 1 mpg hit, but city driving and towing both had improved mileage. Not only that, I could suddenly maintain speeds towing in the mountains, and not have to worry about the truck grinding to a halt on long, steep climbs, which nearly did happen previously. It could suddenly cruise on the highway without dropping out of overdrive because a slight headwind or incline. The truck was so much more enjoyable to drive too. In short, it's the best mod I ever did to that truck, and I did a lot of them.


What transmission did the old Ford have?
I believe it was the 4R70...
2015 Ram 1500
2022 Grand Design Imagine XLS 22RBE

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Check out the Ford 2017 towing guide. Look up any, but this seems to be focused on F150

Note that these are all close ratio automatics

Then check out the exact same truck with different diff ratios and the max trailer weights and GCWR's all increase with a higher numeric diff ratio...

2017 Ford towing guide

Older charts did show 4.1's and IMO due to the older non double OD automatics
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

RCMAN46
Explorer
Explorer
TurnThePage wrote:
I took my old F150 4.6L from 3.55 to 4.10. It made a HUGE difference. Unloaded highway mileage took a 1 mpg hit, but city driving and towing both had improved mileage. Not only that, I could suddenly maintain speeds towing in the mountains, and not have to worry about the truck grinding to a halt on long, steep climbs, which nearly did happen previously. It could suddenly cruise on the highway without dropping out of overdrive because a slight headwind or incline. The truck was so much more enjoyable to drive too. In short, it's the best mod I ever did to that truck, and I did a lot of them.


What transmission did the old Ford have?