Towing

[rjjr38]

I just bought a 2014 Coachman Freedom Express Liberty Edition 298 reds travel trailer. The dry weight is 6,876 lbs. Payload capacity is 2,982. I'm looking for suggestions for vehicles for towing. Thanks, Ray

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[BenK]

Another opinion...

Do not like to be at the maximum of anything of mine

Sure, have pushed it and beyond and that is the main reason for not wanting to push limits...and why love to have 'extra' margin of my own...on top of whatever the designers dialed in

Know and understand the 'half ton' or nothing else will do mentality. Plus know the difference between 'can do it' to 'doing it well & safety'

My Silverado 'can' and did tow a +14,000 lb utility trailer from SF Bayarea to the Tehachapi Mountains to install 350KW wind-generators I designed and installed (had a small alternate energy startup back then). That same TV was loaded to over 7,500 lbs. All guesstimated based on knowing what stuff was loaded onto/into both. The frame was still bent when donated it a few months ago

Bottom line: personal choice and back on the above of deciding on whether you believe in the OEM ratings or not... I like to have lots and lots of margin...to not worry about it. Plus 'ride quality' (that is mostly the reason for folks trying to stick with half tons) isn't on my have to have list...and towards the bottom of my nice to have list...but that is just IMHO...

[BarneyS]

In my opinion, you are definitely in 3/4 ton territory with that rig. My rig is about the same size and you can see what I was towing with.
Barney

[goducks10]

35' long and approaching 8,000 lbs I definitely go 3/4 ton.

[BenK]

Buddy pasted away and his server no more and don't want to change my sig...new metrics does not allow much info room

Here is a link to my Suburban. Don't like the new ones and normally keep my vehicles for decades...until either can't/won't fix them anymore. Getting close to settling on what to do when it needs a new something. Like a new big block or tranny. If that days comes...a 'built' 7.4L, 'build' 4L80E (good for 1,000HP), 4.88's or 5.xx's for the diff's and a GearVendors with a 0.50 ratio...so the 4 speed tranny will become an 8 speed tranny with double OD

Click For Full-Size Image.

Used to own a 28 foot boat. Sold it after the partners bought two new outboards without my knowledge. GREAT in that they could get a 28 footer to plane, but knew the transom wasn't designed for that...so sold out

Borrow trailers from church buddies, so no need to own one.

Now at 70, many have passed away and/or sold their trailers. So don't tow much anymore after diagnosed with cancer. Am okay, as Waldenstrom's is controlled and hoping to live a long life...unless it turns

[shelbyfv]

BenK I can't see the linked picture of your rig. What are you towing with the 'burb?

[BenK]

Welcome to the forum !!!!

First decide if 'you' believe in the OEM's ratings system or not. Ratings, as in specifications, limits, and 'recommendations' listed in the manual(s). "Recommendations" are not as most think...if someone does NOT follow their OEM's recommendations...then that OEM does NOT have to cover it under warranty...as you did NOT follow their recommendations

• If you do NOT, then this is an academic discussion and do whatever you wish to do, but note that you have taken the OEM(s) off the liability hook...even it they are out of warranty...and...you, the driver owns the liability of that setup...driver, as that is the only person responsible for the setup
• If you do believe in the OEMs ratings, then follow the below recommendations

Second, many list me as part of the "Weight Police"...there is no policing on these freebie forums. I do wear that derogatory and note that many who employ that nomenclature to de-value

Third, I'll not provide 'approval' or 'disapproval' (rarely do to clear potential danger), but to provide the metrics for the OP's to figure it out themselves. They do have to do some work. Like actually weighting their stuff and researching/gathering information on 'their' setup. If they do NOT have the actual stuff, then recommend to use the OEM's max ratings...GAWR (F/R), GVWR, GCWR and note that the MTWR is generally meaningless...unless you own the 'stripper model' the OEMs use to market the maximum ratings


Since it appears you do NOT have either the TV nor trailer, recommend using the OEMs maximum rating....their GVWR's and GCWR to do the simple math


This is the generic formula to figure it out on paper:

GCWR >= TV actual weight + Trailer actual weight + Hitch Assembly + stuff

Again, if you do NOT have their actual weights, then use their maximum ratings...GVWR (and yes, the trailer has a GVWR too...and GAWRs)

Since you already have chosen a trailer, work backwards from the trailer to what the TV should be

Note that many TV's run into trouble with is the RGAWR (rear gross axle weight rating) first. Second issue normally would be payload

Good luck and ask lots of questions

rjjr38 wrote:
I just bought a 2014 Coachman Freedom Express Liberty Edition 298 reds travel trailer. The dry weight is 6,876 lbs. Payload capacity is 2,982. I'm looking for suggestions for vehicles for towing. Thanks, Ray

[Dadoffourgirls]

A Chevy Express 3500 with the 6.0 gas engine.

Ability to tow and carry people.

[APT]

I agree than any 2011+ 3/4 ton truck will tow it very well and comfortably. So will some half tons, but you need to pay attention to some ratings and capacities in addition to tow rating.

So, 7k dry, 8k loaded. I expect that will be 1000-1100 pounds of loaded TW. Estimate how much you plan to put in the bed and cab and add that to the loaded TW to understand how much payload you will need.

[Beentherefixedt]

ANY I repeat ANY so called 3/4 ton or 250 2500 truck will tow it just fine. A diesel will make it easier but the cost much higher.

Be careful asking this here as there is a cohort of folks that think you need a one ton dually to tow a TAB trailer.

A properly spece'd and set up 1/2 ton will also do it. But here I risk the ire of the "Math" set who may come on with reams of figures to show it is impossible...It's not.

But also keep in mind that it is unlikely, depending on how you use the trailer, that you will reach the full Carrying capacity. I have never gotten close to my CC and I full time.

I weighed everything as I loaded it originally and was WAY WAY within the limits. (and yea this included propane and fresh water.

My general advice though would be to get the biggest truck you can afford with foremost in your mind HOW MUCH YOU WILL TOW and What you plan to do..ie Full time vs two times a year to the lake...

[MFL]

Only you know what/who will be added to the truck/trailer combo, or your future RV purchases. For the RV you are asking about, a 3/4 ton SUV, or 3/4 truck would be a good choice. Most 1/2 ton vehicles would come up short.

Jerry

[1492]

Moved from Forum Posting Help and Support

[DutchmenSport]

I agree with guidry above.

We started towing our first 6000 pound TT with a Chevy 1500 Suburban and within 6 weeks burned out the transmission. Replaced the transmission and it never towed right again, so got rid of it.

It was right then we decided to get the biggest, baddest, most robust truck money could buy, because we realized eventually we'd be trading the camper for something bigger... eventually.

We found a used 3500 Chevy Dually log bed, crew cab (Gas version). We purchased a shell for the bed and we never looked back. Yes, it was absolutely total over kill for that 6000 pound trailer, but oh it towed nice.

Fast forward. The frame rusted and my service guy said it was just simply to dangerous towing anything any more. We traded for our a 3500 Chevy Silverado, dually, long bed Crew cab (Diesel). It also was used. But what a beat it was.

We then traded trailers and went to a 31 foot long camper, and the truck towed like it wasn't even there.

That enabled us to trade up again to a new Travel trailers, this time to 35 foot 10,000 pound trailer, which towed with that truck like it not even there.

The fiberglass body on that truck started spider cracking real bad and I was concerned someday a chunk of the body would just fall out. But the mechanics were amazing. Engine and transmission was awesome.

So we then traded again for our current truck and got it brand new. 3500 dually long bed crew cab Silverado (Diesel). We've had it now 5 years, and yep ... you guess it! We traded campers again.

We went Fifth Wheel this time, 12,500 pounds and 41 feet long. And that truck tows it like drinking a cool lemon-aid on a hot evening sitting on the front porch swing.

There's a fine line all of us have to draw, and that line is money. How much can you afford right now to plop down a hefty vehicle? But the truth of the matter is, if you bite the bullet now, it will save you in the long run.

Although, we learned the hard way, buying "used" was not the best move. Granted, the trucks were cheaper, but we also had problems which eventually forced us to get rid of them sooner than we anticipated. Buying new, we've not inherited a half-used up vehicle already. I wish we would have bought new when we got that first gasser.

So, listen to what folks are saying here when they say you can't ever get too big! We've been through it. We know the drill.

[Lwiddis]

Depending on what you carry in the truck a 2500 might work.

[guidry]

Here is my opinion from both reading hundreds of posts on this forum and my personal experience. Many RV'rs go up in weight from the first trailer up to large toy haulers within their RV'ing time. I had two TT's and a 5th wheel and started with a 1/2 ton truck, suburban, and now a one ton 3500 SRW. So, if you're thinking of a good truck to pull a TT, think one ton 3500 diesel. There is minimal difference in price between the 2500 and the 3500 and diesel will give you the stability and power to tow almost anything safely. I've recently bought a TC and will use the 5th wheel or TC whenever I want. If you can afford it, do it right one time and keep it for any future purchases too.