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Toilet help!

CrystalB
Explorer II
Explorer II

20240201_203052.jpg

 

This is the current set up on the back of our toilet. The hard plastic tubbing going from the ground to the toilet started leaking. Pretty badly. We've since shut the water off completely. My question is we'd like to eventually get a dry toilet. So how would i shut off water only to the toilet? There's nothing topside that would allow me to do this. Would I need to go under the rv? If so I don't have the manual which brings me to another question. How do I find the plumbing so I know where or how to cap it off at?

I suppose until I get the dry toilet I may be able to tape the pipe? But I'll need to cap it off sometime regardless. 

So..  help please

It's a 2005 weekend warrior toy hauler 

9 REPLIES 9

opnspaces
Navigator II
Navigator II

If you just want to cap it.

  • Cut the tube just below the T
  • Use a sharp knife or razor blade to make the cut a square and flat as you can
  • Press on a sharkbite fitting.

You can use one of these and just leave the valve turned off. Link 

Or one of these to just cap it off. Link 

Test

 

 

.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup

Krusty
Nomad
Nomad

It is probably easier to take a look at it and see why it is leaking and fix it rather than trying to cap it off

Krusty
92 F-250 4x4 460 5spd 4.10LS Prodigy
97 Rustler RT190
EU2000i
Garmin

opnspaces
Navigator II
Navigator II

You didn't really say where exactly the leak is so I'm assuming it's at the T junction on the pipe. First realize that T junction means there is more than one fixture served water by that pipe that comes out of the floor.My guess is that T feeds a bathroom sink so you can't just cut and cap the pipe.

Second is unless you are going to a dry toilet this minute you should just fix the leak so you can use water in the RV.

I would look into getting a Sharkbite fitting from Home Depot. Link  Link is for a T fitting but they also have 90's and straight fittings. They also sell lengths of the pipe in case you make a mistake and need to replace a section. Then carefully cut the leaking joint out and replace with the Sharkbite fitting. The beauty of the fitting is it's easy to use.

Cut the plastic tube as square as you can.

Trim the lengths of the tubes to the length that makes sure the tubes can slide into the joint and bottom out in the fitting.
Press the Sharkbite onto the tubes. It's just a push on no need to tighten or crimp anything.

Turn on the water and check for leaks.

.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup

I can't tell where the leak is exactly. It's too tight of a fit back there.  I think its higher up on the pipe so one of the previous answers may be correct and the rings might be replaced. 

Are you referring to the tubbing that splices off to the side? That's a shower head that's attached to the toilet. It's not used as there is a separate shower. 

Tango424
Explorer III
Explorer III

Those factory clamps around the pipe are probably the source of you re leak my suggestion is remove the old clamps and install new hose clamps at those fittings you can get the clamps at any automobile parts store that just might fix your  issue

TANGO424
95 ram 12valve and homemade adventure trailer

nickthehunter
Nomad II
Nomad II

Am I missing something? There appears to be splice of some type wire the line goes from flexible piping to rigid piping.  Just get a plug or cap, whichever works, of the proper size, and plug or cap the flexible tubing right at that splice.

The flexible tubing is just a shower head that was spliced into the line. 

There is a shower head spliced into the line as well. I thought it was weird myself but it came like that.