1/2 Ton Suburban in steep grades with TT

[trance728]

I've read a bunch of different posts in several forums about towing with a 1/2 ton Suburban and how it will struggle on steep grades and that you should really have a 3/4 ton.

Here's my situation: I already have a 2005 1500 Suburban RWD with 3.42 gears and a tow package. My truck is rated to pull 7400#. I live in the Denver area and want to take a few trips out to California which will require going up steep grades I think 7% is the highest. The trailer. I want to get has a dry weight of 5700#.

My question is: If I add an additional tranny cooler, use a brake controller, a weight distribution anti sway hitch and only drive in 3rd with the tow mode on, will I be able to make a few trips out there without killing my transmission. Is there any other things I could do to help?

I would plan to leave the trailer with no water and very little gear through the mountains and it would only be myself and my dog in the truck.

I know I should upgrade my truck, but I can't get the trailer and a new tow vehicle at the same time. I don't mind getting a different truck later in the year but for the immediate timing I'd just like to know if the Suburban would make it until then.

I have thought about a smaller trailer but if I would inevitably trade up to a bigger truck in a few months I'd rather get the one I want.

Thanks for any feedback.

[mr61impala]

trance728 wrote:

MARK VANDERBENT wrote:
Just take it easy up hills . Slow in 2nd gear reving high is nothing for a vortec. I have been towing with half ton burbs for 16 years now. Mine is a 2000 2 wheel 373 with 210,000 miles. I always maintain fluids and run lucus additive in trans.

So 2nd is better than 3rd? Read mixed things about that. I wish I had a higher ratio diff than the 3.42, but my friend said its kind of a b***h to do a swap.

Years ago I replaced the ring and pinion in my 1996 Ram 1/2 ton which came with 3.55. (The 9.25" Chrysler unit sets up very much like a 9" Ford of which I am very familiar).

Went to a 3.92 ratio, the best 2 hours I ever invested in that truck.

Trailer weighed #4500 empty, truck had 5.2L V8. Went from dropping to 2nd on every hill to maintaining 3rd (direct) on all but the worst.

I think I would even go as deep as a 4.10 if you have the option.

[colliehauler]

I kind of thought the OP was a little over optimistic towing in 3rd. I towed a similar size trailer on a 8% grade with a Dodge 360 with similar gears and was down to 15 mph at one point.

I wish the OP good luck and I hope he lets us know how it goes.

[blt2ski]

A 6% grade, assuming 15000 how, with 90 sq ft of frontal area will require about 135hp on a level. Then additional 40 hp per 1% grade. So 6x40= 240 +135= 375hp to go 60 mph. Now add in 7000 feet of election , you need another 15-20% of sea level hp, so over 400 hp to go 60mph at elevation at that weight and frontal area. Does the op have 400+hp to go 60 mph. Probably not. Not sure an 8 lug right with a diesel has the 375 hp for the most part......

As someone said, plan on going30-40 mph, in the right lane, in 2 nd gear, or what ever gear is below direct. Enjoy the climb.

Oh 7% grades are steep for an Ioverstate, but here in the greater Seattle area. I've gone up local roads that are in the low to mid20% range. Those are fun no matter the hp, unless you have the proper LOW gears between Axel and mostly tranny 1st gear is important.

Marty

[KD4UPL]

I just want to point out that a brake controller is absolutely required to tow the trailer any where any time. It's not just to "help" on steep down grades. If you don't have a brake controller in your Suburban then the brakes on your trailer will never activate. This would be extremely dangerous with a 6,000 pound trailer; not to mention illegal.
You need a brake controller. Prodigy would probably be the brand to look at.

[Terryallan]

trance728 wrote:

MARK VANDERBENT wrote:
Just take it easy up hills . Slow in 2nd gear reving high is nothing for a vortec. I have been towing with half ton burbs for 16 years now. Mine is a 2000 2 wheel 373 with 210,000 miles. I always maintain fluids and run lucus additive in trans.

So 2nd is better than 3rd? Read mixed things about that. I wish I had a higher ratio diff than the 3.42, but my friend said its kind of a b***h to do a swap.

Kind of pricey as well. Cheaper to get a whole axle, (used) and swap it out.

[trance728]

MARK VANDERBENT wrote:
Just take it easy up hills . Slow in 2nd gear reving high is nothing for a vortec. I have been towing with half ton burbs for 16 years now. Mine is a 2000 2 wheel 373 with 210,000 miles. I always maintain fluids and run lucus additive in trans.

So 2nd is better than 3rd? Read mixed things about that. I wish I had a higher ratio diff than the 3.42, but my friend said its kind of a b***h to do a swap.

[MARK_VANDERBENT]

Just take it easy up hills . Slow in 2nd gear reving high is nothing for a vortec. I have been towing with half ton burbs for 16 years now. Mine is a 2000 2 wheel 373 with 210,000 miles. I always maintain fluids and run lucus additive in trans.

[Terryallan]

trance728 wrote:
Well you guys are making me feel better about it, and I guess I won't really know if I really need to upgrade until I try. As far as driving slow, I don't mind that at all, and every time I've towed a uhaul or other trailer I listen more to what the truck sounds like it wants to do.

Another question: When loading gear, is it better to load it in the suburban or in the trailer, or does it not make much difference?

Put it in the TT. Loading it in the TV. You may go over the payload.

[trance728]

Well you guys are making me feel better about it, and I guess I won't really know if I really need to upgrade until I try. As far as driving slow, I don't mind that at all, and every time I've towed a uhaul or other trailer I listen more to what the truck sounds like it wants to do.

Another question: When loading gear, is it better to load it in the suburban or in the trailer, or does it not make much difference?

[coolbreeze01]

A 3/4 ton with the same gears and engine wouldn't go up the hills any better than what you have.

Sounds like you know to gear down and not get in a hurry. Your Burb will be just fine with your input on shifting and throttle control. Don't be afread to let it rev. Have fun.

[GWolfe]

smkettner wrote:
Just be OK with going slower. You will not be the only vehicle going over I70 at 35 mph or even less. Just hang in with a loaded truck or older motorhome and enjoy the ride. Not a big deal. Being in a hurry, running at max throttle, constant shifting to get more speed is the stuff that burns up a transmission.

And yes continue to stay on the slow side when descending. Use the brakes moderately firm to drop a full 20+ mph and then coast back up to speed. Do not ride the brakes to keep a constant speed.

X2, I would do it just don't get in a rush.

[bluie5]

Fortunately I have a diesel with an exhaust brake for going down hill. I think the rule of thumb is to go downhill in whatever gear you used get up and brake as smkettner said.

[time2roll]

Just be OK with going slower. You will not be the only vehicle going over I70 at 35 mph or even less. Just hang in with a loaded truck or older motorhome and enjoy the ride. Not a big deal. Being in a hurry, running at max throttle, constant shifting to get more speed is the stuff that burns up a transmission.

And yes continue to stay on the slow side when descending. Use the brakes moderately firm to drop a full 20+ mph and then coast back up to speed. Do not ride the brakes to keep a constant speed.

[trance728]

What is the scary part of the drive, the down hills? If the trailer has electric brakes with a brake controller in the truck, doesn't that help?

[cruiserjs]

Nope - I would not take that set-up over I 70 - without a lot of white nuckels! (Lived in Summit County for 13+ years). Recommend south on I 25 to either I 40 ( at Albuquerque) or down to I 10 at Los Cruces, then west to California.