Thanks. Since you mentioned it, I decided to go grab a pic.
But notice it's just the same setup that used to live in the propane cabinet. The stub is a few inches long. Inside the electric cabinet, the trap portions remain unchanged.
Yeah, I don't get the PhotoBucket thing.
But notice it's just the same setup that used to live in the propane cabinet. The stub is a few inches long. Inside the electric cabinet, the trap portions remain unchanged.
Yeah, I don't get the PhotoBucket thing.
Today: Re-work under-wing bathroom drain line.
As reported in the Fresh Water post today, upon loading the camper to the truck, I realized the passenger/curb side bed-rail might hit the PVC bathroom drain line under the propane compartment.
Somebody had to DO something!
I removed the hose clamps, then grabbed the oscillating saw and trimmed back one pipe, just outside the electrical cabinet where the bathroom basin trap is found. By this time, the wind was picking up, and I didn't have any new hose anyway, so I continued the load up with freezing fingers.
I guess the cold was getting to my inner-core as well, as I forgot more pictures - of the removed piece.
A day or two later, when I added the new hose, the work was done while the camper was loaded and I accessed easy-peasy through the under-dinette-seat access door to the wheel well.
Here's how the new hose worked.
Guess I forgot to get under photos that day too. We're tie-ing up many loose ends right now, and I get confused easily.
I still intend to place some sort of grommet over the larger hole where the hose passes through the floor of the cabinet. So many jobs, so little time.
And THAT completes Waste Water.
As reported in the Fresh Water post today, upon loading the camper to the truck, I realized the passenger/curb side bed-rail might hit the PVC bathroom drain line under the propane compartment.
Somebody had to DO something!
I removed the hose clamps, then grabbed the oscillating saw and trimmed back one pipe, just outside the electrical cabinet where the bathroom basin trap is found. By this time, the wind was picking up, and I didn't have any new hose anyway, so I continued the load up with freezing fingers.
I guess the cold was getting to my inner-core as well, as I forgot more pictures - of the removed piece.
A day or two later, when I added the new hose, the work was done while the camper was loaded and I accessed easy-peasy through the under-dinette-seat access door to the wheel well.
Here's how the new hose worked.
Guess I forgot to get under photos that day too. We're tie-ing up many loose ends right now, and I get confused easily.
I still intend to place some sort of grommet over the larger hole where the hose passes through the floor of the cabinet. So many jobs, so little time.
And THAT completes Waste Water.
Recent work on Lil' Queeny has had me finishing the cab-over step up cabinet; the storage location for the fresh water tank. But this area also houses the systems that connect camper left side to right side and one of those was the drain waste vent (DWV) from the kitchen on port side to the grey tank on starboard.
The waste system was complete - but had not yet been smoke tested (that's a mechanic's term for starting a freshly built engine). Time to check for leaks.
I took a last look at all connections and filled the tank from the kitchen and bathroom sinks. There were some minor leaks.
With all the various connections, mostly in the form of Fernco rubber connectors with worm gear clamps, I expected more problems that I found. I was delighted!
The biggest threat I felt were the plastic fittings threaded into the tank itself. You may recall I used a pipe dope on these as I had never really been successful with Teflon tape hard plastic to soft. Of these tank connections, they all held except right at the dump valve.
The only other leaks were the grey colored Fernco adapters where they clamped on the thin walled plastic trap areas, one leak at the bath sink, and two or three at the shower drain.
This is the bath sink drain with the plastic pipe stub removed.
I cut a new stub pipe from a metal downstream trap piece. Here are old and new parts.
Here's the new piece in place.
No leak, all fixed.
Here's the leak at the shower.
Both the clamp on the tailpiece, and the downstream piece of the trap were leaking or questionable, so I replaced both with metal, cut to size and polished on the edges.
The threaded dump valve leak was another matter. First thing was to remove the original battery tray (acting as a hold down for the grey tank) and lift the tank about half an inch at it's rear to allow the screw in dump valve flange to turn; that's of course after dismantling the dump valve pieces.
Next I tried several wraps of Teflon tape after cleaning off the old pipe dope. After a retest, the Teflon joint leaked even worst than the pipe doped joint. DS had said I should use Silicon, and maybe I should, but I was still holding off on that. One more try was a different pipe dope.
While in Fairbanks, an RV Tech turned me on to this...
Specifically to lube and seal the water heater drain/anode rod threads. It has worked very well on that metal thread scenario and I grabbed it to try on this softer plastic joint.
After reading the label and verifying it was a suitable stuff for this application, I put it back together and it was a great fix. Screwed in smoothly and felt good, no sense of "too loose" while still needing tightening. Felt right and it sealed.
And this time I fastened the "battery tray" a little higher so it no longer holds down the grey tank or has to be removed to raise the back of the tank. That allows me to leave it alone in future unless I'm removing the tank. And it's not where the batteries are to be located now anyway, but will contain a number of wires, cables and components I don't want disturbed just to fix a tank joint leak. I'll add a simple hold-down at the tank rear somewhere.
So the grey tank and waste water system is ready, complete and smoke tested!
The waste system was complete - but had not yet been smoke tested (that's a mechanic's term for starting a freshly built engine). Time to check for leaks.
I took a last look at all connections and filled the tank from the kitchen and bathroom sinks. There were some minor leaks.
With all the various connections, mostly in the form of Fernco rubber connectors with worm gear clamps, I expected more problems that I found. I was delighted!
The biggest threat I felt were the plastic fittings threaded into the tank itself. You may recall I used a pipe dope on these as I had never really been successful with Teflon tape hard plastic to soft. Of these tank connections, they all held except right at the dump valve.
The only other leaks were the grey colored Fernco adapters where they clamped on the thin walled plastic trap areas, one leak at the bath sink, and two or three at the shower drain.
This is the bath sink drain with the plastic pipe stub removed.
I cut a new stub pipe from a metal downstream trap piece. Here are old and new parts.
Here's the new piece in place.
No leak, all fixed.
Here's the leak at the shower.
Both the clamp on the tailpiece, and the downstream piece of the trap were leaking or questionable, so I replaced both with metal, cut to size and polished on the edges.
The threaded dump valve leak was another matter. First thing was to remove the original battery tray (acting as a hold down for the grey tank) and lift the tank about half an inch at it's rear to allow the screw in dump valve flange to turn; that's of course after dismantling the dump valve pieces.
Next I tried several wraps of Teflon tape after cleaning off the old pipe dope. After a retest, the Teflon joint leaked even worst than the pipe doped joint. DS had said I should use Silicon, and maybe I should, but I was still holding off on that. One more try was a different pipe dope.
While in Fairbanks, an RV Tech turned me on to this...
Specifically to lube and seal the water heater drain/anode rod threads. It has worked very well on that metal thread scenario and I grabbed it to try on this softer plastic joint.
After reading the label and verifying it was a suitable stuff for this application, I put it back together and it was a great fix. Screwed in smoothly and felt good, no sense of "too loose" while still needing tightening. Felt right and it sealed.
And this time I fastened the "battery tray" a little higher so it no longer holds down the grey tank or has to be removed to raise the back of the tank. That allows me to leave it alone in future unless I'm removing the tank. And it's not where the batteries are to be located now anyway, but will contain a number of wires, cables and components I don't want disturbed just to fix a tank joint leak. I'll add a simple hold-down at the tank rear somewhere.
So the grey tank and waste water system is ready, complete and smoke tested!
Any plumber will tell you, among all the things you must know in the plumbing world, the first two things you learn is: 1-Sh!t flows downhill, and 2-Payday's on Friday.
For me that means I don't have to pay someone else to do the work, and I need to keep a 1/4" vertical drop per horizontal foot.
That's similar to other runoff areas, like our garage conversion to living room had a 1/4" drop per foot rule of thumb the flat-work concrete guys TRIED to follow when they built our house long before WE got here, and that required leveling before making it a flat floor living room.
Likewise, when we put in our paver patio, I learned that was to be a 1/8" per foot slope, which allows general rain run-off without creating such a surface that you feel like you're in the fun-house at an amusement park.
And on the plumbing thing, you don't want a GREATER than 1/4" per foot, because if the water runs away too fast, the solids can get left behind, and that will create clog problems.
Now I'm not a plumber, but I did hear about a plumber's convention once!
Since I don't really have solids in this grey water line, more than 1/4" per foot is not too big an issue, but I do have set heights at several locations, the first in this galley run of course is the sink height which establishes the starting height of the trap and the spot where the downstream portion of the trap enters the horizontal (there's a name for that I'm sure, but - I'm not a plumber).
Then the next set height was the double copper elbow (like the magic bullet theory) of the cabinet exit, then down, then sideways, then back behind the cabinet!
It's here where the hope was always that the set height would be high enough to allow 1/4" per foot drop to the set height of the OTHER side of the camper where it elbows off the top of the fresh water tank, then elbows down, then on its merry way. Otherwise I'd need a lift pump, and THAT wasn't going to happen.
And actually, it wasn't always hope, it was verified certainty. I find verification and certainty always give me hope! So I try to verify and certify because... well - because... I like hope!
So way back ago, the placement of the copper elbows in the cabinetry were based on my knowledge that I had enough here for the slope, due to prior testing. But I always knew, I had absolutely NO room for error. So like the front wall cap, I've been saving this part for last, because I was afraid of it! You see, I still haven't found verification and certainty to prevent fear.
Fear is a constant, that's why we all walk around so defensive. Take away fear? Bam! No more ISIS! Take away fear? Bam! No more hunger! But I know I'm not supposed to talk religion and politics, so let me back-track again. I know you can always talk about the weather right? Take away fear? Bam! No more bad weather! Well - maybe it's not that simple. Guess I better re-think on that one.
We're looking under the fridge cabinet at where the copper reconnects back to the PVC by using a Fernco 1.5" to 1.25" adapter. The 1.25" fits the smaller outside diameter of the copper. This was more or less the last area assembled, because to find the height of the cabinet cutout notch, I first had to build and assemble the downstream area on the other side of the camper, but that's getting behind myself - let's keep correct flow in mind here.
And a view from below. Notice the slope? I couldn't get the level in here to prove it.
Then it runs across the top of the fresh water tank like this.
And the proof you were looking for, because like me, you may be dis-trustful!
And it's over here where we come into "Magic Bullet Theory #2". (And don't let my writing style cause you to think I'm making fun of an important consideration - regarding MOST conspiracy theories, I feel strongly both ways!)
Then, exiting the fresh water cabinet we enter under the dinette floor and into the grey water tank.
I'll place this strap clamp after I'm certain the pipe is in to stay.
And here's the big picture.
Now of course the logical question on many of your minds is, "why did you go OVER the tank. Wouldn't it have been easier to go along side the front of the tank at whatever elevation change was easiest?"
To which I answer, "Yes".
But surely you know me by now? I don't do anything because it's easiest! Because the space was there - I used it, but more importantly, because the camper is so small, I don't want to WASTE the space in front of the tank - it's reserved!
Here's an overhead view of that space.
These waste receptacles go there. Does it look like they'll fit in there?
Bam!
And the jury is still out on their use. Originally it was: 1-kitchen garbage, and 2-recycle items (cans and water bottles mostly). But since we have opened up a small area for kitchen garbage toward the back of the galley we now have additional options - like maybe one or two laundry hampers!
At any rate, the space is more wisely used this way. In another post soon to come - probably over in "Galley & Greatroom" - I'll show the build of the step platform around the waste line. THAT'S gonna be tricky.
But perhaps before that, guess what's ready to install under "Structure & New Wood"? Yep, final coat of poly...
And that coat fixed the area I was concerned about, that was just about here...
For me that means I don't have to pay someone else to do the work, and I need to keep a 1/4" vertical drop per horizontal foot.
That's similar to other runoff areas, like our garage conversion to living room had a 1/4" drop per foot rule of thumb the flat-work concrete guys TRIED to follow when they built our house long before WE got here, and that required leveling before making it a flat floor living room.
Likewise, when we put in our paver patio, I learned that was to be a 1/8" per foot slope, which allows general rain run-off without creating such a surface that you feel like you're in the fun-house at an amusement park.
And on the plumbing thing, you don't want a GREATER than 1/4" per foot, because if the water runs away too fast, the solids can get left behind, and that will create clog problems.
Now I'm not a plumber, but I did hear about a plumber's convention once!
Since I don't really have solids in this grey water line, more than 1/4" per foot is not too big an issue, but I do have set heights at several locations, the first in this galley run of course is the sink height which establishes the starting height of the trap and the spot where the downstream portion of the trap enters the horizontal (there's a name for that I'm sure, but - I'm not a plumber).
Then the next set height was the double copper elbow (like the magic bullet theory) of the cabinet exit, then down, then sideways, then back behind the cabinet!
It's here where the hope was always that the set height would be high enough to allow 1/4" per foot drop to the set height of the OTHER side of the camper where it elbows off the top of the fresh water tank, then elbows down, then on its merry way. Otherwise I'd need a lift pump, and THAT wasn't going to happen.
And actually, it wasn't always hope, it was verified certainty. I find verification and certainty always give me hope! So I try to verify and certify because... well - because... I like hope!
So way back ago, the placement of the copper elbows in the cabinetry were based on my knowledge that I had enough here for the slope, due to prior testing. But I always knew, I had absolutely NO room for error. So like the front wall cap, I've been saving this part for last, because I was afraid of it! You see, I still haven't found verification and certainty to prevent fear.
Fear is a constant, that's why we all walk around so defensive. Take away fear? Bam! No more ISIS! Take away fear? Bam! No more hunger! But I know I'm not supposed to talk religion and politics, so let me back-track again. I know you can always talk about the weather right? Take away fear? Bam! No more bad weather! Well - maybe it's not that simple. Guess I better re-think on that one.
We're looking under the fridge cabinet at where the copper reconnects back to the PVC by using a Fernco 1.5" to 1.25" adapter. The 1.25" fits the smaller outside diameter of the copper. This was more or less the last area assembled, because to find the height of the cabinet cutout notch, I first had to build and assemble the downstream area on the other side of the camper, but that's getting behind myself - let's keep correct flow in mind here.
And a view from below. Notice the slope? I couldn't get the level in here to prove it.
Then it runs across the top of the fresh water tank like this.
And the proof you were looking for, because like me, you may be dis-trustful!
And it's over here where we come into "Magic Bullet Theory #2". (And don't let my writing style cause you to think I'm making fun of an important consideration - regarding MOST conspiracy theories, I feel strongly both ways!)
Then, exiting the fresh water cabinet we enter under the dinette floor and into the grey water tank.
I'll place this strap clamp after I'm certain the pipe is in to stay.
And here's the big picture.
Now of course the logical question on many of your minds is, "why did you go OVER the tank. Wouldn't it have been easier to go along side the front of the tank at whatever elevation change was easiest?"
To which I answer, "Yes".
But surely you know me by now? I don't do anything because it's easiest! Because the space was there - I used it, but more importantly, because the camper is so small, I don't want to WASTE the space in front of the tank - it's reserved!
Here's an overhead view of that space.
These waste receptacles go there. Does it look like they'll fit in there?
Bam!
And the jury is still out on their use. Originally it was: 1-kitchen garbage, and 2-recycle items (cans and water bottles mostly). But since we have opened up a small area for kitchen garbage toward the back of the galley we now have additional options - like maybe one or two laundry hampers!
At any rate, the space is more wisely used this way. In another post soon to come - probably over in "Galley & Greatroom" - I'll show the build of the step platform around the waste line. THAT'S gonna be tricky.
But perhaps before that, guess what's ready to install under "Structure & New Wood"? Yep, final coat of poly...
And that coat fixed the area I was concerned about, that was just about here...
During the course of putting finish coats on the front wall cap (cab-over bunk front wall) over in various other threads, today I come back here to "Waste Water" and got some work done on the galley sink DWV run.
Positioning the galley sink and the first PVC fitting, I determined a height for the P-trap and cut off the remaining tailpiece.
Then I started sizing and assembling the various parts of the drain and vent lines, planning into the whole, the general 1/4" drop per foot in the horizontal runs. Eventually I needed to drill the vent exit hole through the sidewall. This is the original vent hole size and placement, and I have the original plastic vent cover for the exterior surface.
Back on the inside, I realized a slight change up in the counter wall-cleat had placed the notch off-center, so I had to accommodate.
I made the hole just large enough for the outside diameter of the pipe, but too small for the elbow fitting to push through. That way, once the line is clamped down it makes a nice tight fit - elbow shoulder against wood paneling.
Resulting in this sort of finish.
I plan to install screening over the hole and then the vent cap after the exterior skin of course. And I'll fill the gap with spray foam or caulking as well.
On the inside, once I had the full run modular system built, I located appropriate clamp mount positions and built 1" deep blocks out of 1 by material, pre-drilled the clamp screw holes and the block mounting screw holes, and got them screwed up in place. Then I primered all the fresh wood spots.
I let that dry while I went out and mowed the lawn in between rain events that are affecting us more this year as in so many parts of the country, but fortunately for us, not so severely as in many places.
Here's the DWV under-galley modular unit, built so as to be able to remove easily in the event there is need to dis-assemble the cabinet, just as I have tried to accomplish throughout the camper.
And here it is awaiting installation.
And up in place.
Then with the sink in position.
And the trap installed.
Here we see the drawers back in and the clearances near them.
And a view from the range opening.
The pipe is set back with around 1/2" clearance from the back of the range dimension. The range says 0" clearances on the back and sides from combustibles. Even so. my concern on this particular piece is the rubber Fernco adapter on the right side, so I plan a heat shield around it prior to range insertion.
Notice the rectangular hole in the sidewall near the corner? That's where the original 15 Amp power inlet lived. If all else fails, it will become an outside outlet, because I intend to put a 30 Amp inlet into Lil' Queeny, but at a different spot because the single gang horizontal opening is too wide for today's 30 Amp inlet styles.
But - I ordered a locking gravity-feed water fill hatch that may work here. It would enlarge the hole at least downward, giving the above label screw holes in the siding a purpose ("Potable Water Only" label) and the flexible fill hose (like found on the bathroom sink tail-piece) can come in here just below the galley DWV pipe, exit the interior through a suitable sized hole in the wing, run along the inside, and protected, hidden portion of the jack under-wing metal grid, reenter the camper interior with a straight on shot to the water tank, along with a smaller diameter vent line.
Again, I'd be concerned with the range heat on that small segment of hose, but could quite readily build a heat shield for protection.
I think the main concern will be the depth dimension of the hatch itself, and whether or not there is clearance for it at the DWV pipe. We'll see next week once it arrives.
Once again, I want to thank ticki2 for introducing me to Fernco Connectors. These have made the camper's DWV very slick for my desired applications.
Oh, I also got a second coat of poly on this.
But I noticed a couple of areas that just might require aother buffing and a third, final coat of poly.
Positioning the galley sink and the first PVC fitting, I determined a height for the P-trap and cut off the remaining tailpiece.
Then I started sizing and assembling the various parts of the drain and vent lines, planning into the whole, the general 1/4" drop per foot in the horizontal runs. Eventually I needed to drill the vent exit hole through the sidewall. This is the original vent hole size and placement, and I have the original plastic vent cover for the exterior surface.
Back on the inside, I realized a slight change up in the counter wall-cleat had placed the notch off-center, so I had to accommodate.
I made the hole just large enough for the outside diameter of the pipe, but too small for the elbow fitting to push through. That way, once the line is clamped down it makes a nice tight fit - elbow shoulder against wood paneling.
Resulting in this sort of finish.
I plan to install screening over the hole and then the vent cap after the exterior skin of course. And I'll fill the gap with spray foam or caulking as well.
On the inside, once I had the full run modular system built, I located appropriate clamp mount positions and built 1" deep blocks out of 1 by material, pre-drilled the clamp screw holes and the block mounting screw holes, and got them screwed up in place. Then I primered all the fresh wood spots.
I let that dry while I went out and mowed the lawn in between rain events that are affecting us more this year as in so many parts of the country, but fortunately for us, not so severely as in many places.
Here's the DWV under-galley modular unit, built so as to be able to remove easily in the event there is need to dis-assemble the cabinet, just as I have tried to accomplish throughout the camper.
And here it is awaiting installation.
And up in place.
Then with the sink in position.
And the trap installed.
Here we see the drawers back in and the clearances near them.
And a view from the range opening.
The pipe is set back with around 1/2" clearance from the back of the range dimension. The range says 0" clearances on the back and sides from combustibles. Even so. my concern on this particular piece is the rubber Fernco adapter on the right side, so I plan a heat shield around it prior to range insertion.
Notice the rectangular hole in the sidewall near the corner? That's where the original 15 Amp power inlet lived. If all else fails, it will become an outside outlet, because I intend to put a 30 Amp inlet into Lil' Queeny, but at a different spot because the single gang horizontal opening is too wide for today's 30 Amp inlet styles.
But - I ordered a locking gravity-feed water fill hatch that may work here. It would enlarge the hole at least downward, giving the above label screw holes in the siding a purpose ("Potable Water Only" label) and the flexible fill hose (like found on the bathroom sink tail-piece) can come in here just below the galley DWV pipe, exit the interior through a suitable sized hole in the wing, run along the inside, and protected, hidden portion of the jack under-wing metal grid, reenter the camper interior with a straight on shot to the water tank, along with a smaller diameter vent line.
Again, I'd be concerned with the range heat on that small segment of hose, but could quite readily build a heat shield for protection.
I think the main concern will be the depth dimension of the hatch itself, and whether or not there is clearance for it at the DWV pipe. We'll see next week once it arrives.
Once again, I want to thank ticki2 for introducing me to Fernco Connectors. These have made the camper's DWV very slick for my desired applications.
Oh, I also got a second coat of poly on this.
But I noticed a couple of areas that just might require aother buffing and a third, final coat of poly.
I never did like this setup with the washer and nut design. As ticki2 said early on, he hasn't had great success with those on his camper, as they tend to loosen up. I couldn't figure out what else to do and so felt it was acceptable, since it was outside the interior, even if in the propane compartment.
And then I discovered the "grey" Fernco adapters (with clamps) that again, ticki2 had turned me on to, while I was doing the shower trap.
So I got me an idea and started looking at the area again. I discovered one unglued joint that just happened to be in the right spot (are the RV gods watching out for me or what?).
I also failed to return the 1.25" flex hose within the allotted time that I had bought and decided against using (although I'm rethinking part of that too).
Using parts on hand, I just threw this together this morning.
This design is more compact and forgiving than the previous, making tank replacement a little bit better as well.
And then I discovered the "grey" Fernco adapters (with clamps) that again, ticki2 had turned me on to, while I was doing the shower trap.
So I got me an idea and started looking at the area again. I discovered one unglued joint that just happened to be in the right spot (are the RV gods watching out for me or what?).
I also failed to return the 1.25" flex hose within the allotted time that I had bought and decided against using (although I'm rethinking part of that too).
Using parts on hand, I just threw this together this morning.
This design is more compact and forgiving than the previous, making tank replacement a little bit better as well.
So something like this? If I'd had two more street elbows it would have been smaller, cleaner looking - and you can't never tell about me, it just might get changed again, but for now, it's a trap, it's fewer clamp joints, all one size and easy to dissemble. Yeah, I like it. Nice suggestion.
Dave Pete wrote:
This might be too late after the fact but for this application you could have made the whole pipe and trap assembly up with glued 1-1/2" sch 40 and just had the black 90 at the bottom and a black coupling at the top , all 1-1/2" . It would still be removable as a unit .
Okay, picture sizes fixed...
After spending a little quality time with Lil' Queenie under her shower, and messing around with her drain pipes over in "Bathroom Remodel", I'm returning here to "Waste Water" to cover some details on how the trap systems are going to work out in the camper.
We'll get to the galley system later - and the picture of the shower result is in "Bathroom Remodel", but here's a detail discussion and assembly of the bathroom sink trap on the warm side of the camper in the battery compartment - right above the grey tank.
These are the players.
The suggestion by ticki2 to go with worm gear clamps found on Fernco adapters is good. I've liked the idea every since he mentioned it. But I found difficulties arise from the inside and outside diameters in adapting standard 1.5" PVC Schedule 40 pipes and fittings, and the 1.5" (typically kitchen sink and tub/shower) trap pieces!
Notwithstanding potential availability in mobile home and other RV parts, the residential home centers and standards seem to only provide the nut and washer design "trap adapters" I was trying to avoid. Also, the tiny spaces available to my particular design were proving quite a challenge.
Most particular to this recent work was the elbow pieces, that is to say the part of the trap assembly that goes between the p-trap itself, and the wall adapter. In my case I was at a store that didn't sell the pieces separate, so I had waste. This is a shot of what I DIDN'T use (or won't be using as I complete the gally area).
But if making a homemade basin nut made anybody smile, ๐ this next job may have you ROTFLYAO.
Incidentally, after all was said and done, I finally realized the black Fernco parts are for standard plumbing sizes, and the grey are for trap sizes. Doh!
This was the first adaptation. Cutting a p-trap into a usable elbow of trap diameter.
Making the players now thus.
And when assembled, looking more like this.
So that was the theory anyway. Now let's try and prove out the hypothesis.
First step, remove the previous design. By doing this I could again have a tank connection that can be worked on without disturbing the tank, like I did on the shower connection.
Then I stubbed in the tank connection. When I ordered the tank I was thinking in terms of 1.25" for bathroom sink and 1.5" for all others. So this connection is 1.25" and I'll be clamping onto it's OUTSIDE diameter, instead of inside, as this piece was designed for. In doing so, I scraped off the raised lettering and a little casting nub and smoothed the outer surface for the clamp connection, which fit perfect.
And it all came together like this. I had to flip the one piece from what had been planned on the bench a minute ago.
Those are group 27 batteries by the way. The group 31's on the wing are too big for them AND the power distribution center depth.
Now when it comes time for completing the galley sink trap and vent, I have the parts standing by.
And you might also notice, using a black Fernco 1.5" to 1.25" coupler between the PVC and copper, gives a good fit without compressing as I showed and didn't like some time ago.
After spending a little quality time with Lil' Queenie under her shower, and messing around with her drain pipes over in "Bathroom Remodel", I'm returning here to "Waste Water" to cover some details on how the trap systems are going to work out in the camper.
We'll get to the galley system later - and the picture of the shower result is in "Bathroom Remodel", but here's a detail discussion and assembly of the bathroom sink trap on the warm side of the camper in the battery compartment - right above the grey tank.
These are the players.
The suggestion by ticki2 to go with worm gear clamps found on Fernco adapters is good. I've liked the idea every since he mentioned it. But I found difficulties arise from the inside and outside diameters in adapting standard 1.5" PVC Schedule 40 pipes and fittings, and the 1.5" (typically kitchen sink and tub/shower) trap pieces!
Notwithstanding potential availability in mobile home and other RV parts, the residential home centers and standards seem to only provide the nut and washer design "trap adapters" I was trying to avoid. Also, the tiny spaces available to my particular design were proving quite a challenge.
Most particular to this recent work was the elbow pieces, that is to say the part of the trap assembly that goes between the p-trap itself, and the wall adapter. In my case I was at a store that didn't sell the pieces separate, so I had waste. This is a shot of what I DIDN'T use (or won't be using as I complete the gally area).
But if making a homemade basin nut made anybody smile, ๐ this next job may have you ROTFLYAO.
Incidentally, after all was said and done, I finally realized the black Fernco parts are for standard plumbing sizes, and the grey are for trap sizes. Doh!
This was the first adaptation. Cutting a p-trap into a usable elbow of trap diameter.
Making the players now thus.
And when assembled, looking more like this.
So that was the theory anyway. Now let's try and prove out the hypothesis.
First step, remove the previous design. By doing this I could again have a tank connection that can be worked on without disturbing the tank, like I did on the shower connection.
Then I stubbed in the tank connection. When I ordered the tank I was thinking in terms of 1.25" for bathroom sink and 1.5" for all others. So this connection is 1.25" and I'll be clamping onto it's OUTSIDE diameter, instead of inside, as this piece was designed for. In doing so, I scraped off the raised lettering and a little casting nub and smoothed the outer surface for the clamp connection, which fit perfect.
And it all came together like this. I had to flip the one piece from what had been planned on the bench a minute ago.
Those are group 27 batteries by the way. The group 31's on the wing are too big for them AND the power distribution center depth.
Now when it comes time for completing the galley sink trap and vent, I have the parts standing by.
And you might also notice, using a black Fernco 1.5" to 1.25" coupler between the PVC and copper, gives a good fit without compressing as I showed and didn't like some time ago.
