Forum Discussion
Dave_Pete
Jan 03, 2015Explorer II
With a good second coat of poly on the woodwork, there are not but a few more things to address before installing the camper front box wall. But first some attention needs to be given that front wall itself.
Some time ago I put on the dark bronze with gold metal flake paint. That went on the portion of front wall interior surface that won't be behind cabinetry. I also topped the camper wing where the dinette cushions will sit. Even though that will be covered I just like to have surfaces finished as it seems to make for a homier experience. At the same time I had painted several boards associated with the inside surfaces of various open storage areas, most specifically the compartment below the fridge.
But as things turn out some times, the first coat of paint hadn't been strained before application, and the fast drying paint had taken on a bit of lumpy consistency IN THE can from previously being open to the air for too long while I had painted the back wall. As they say, you live and learn. Suffice to say it left small (and large) globules in the finish coat. These became quite apparent after the first coat of maple tinted poly, and even more so once air-borne dust had settled over the days and then especially once I tried to wipe off the dust. Something had to be done, but what?
I started by using a putty knife to shave the globules off as much as possible while trying not to dig through the bronze into the white primer below. Here's how it looked after being mostly scraped, but with a non-scraped example, just to the left of the window opening.


Then I gave it all a steel-wool buffing. And because I could see at least some isolated areas where there were tiny white primer spots visible, I decided it needed a little more dark color covering. But as I was already into the first coat of poly, so choices were limited.
I wasn't certain the maple tinted poly would cover good enough so I choose another can on the shelf that had a mahogany tint. It is still a reddish tone, almost purple, very deep and rich, makes the board look almost black, but of a brown tones instead of a grays. And it hides the metal flake, but we both really liked the result, so glossy and mirrored, but infinite depth and richness. And I'd bet on a sunny day where the sun is lighting up a patch, the metal flake will appear.
I did the same thing on the under dinette boards. We'll fix the smaller area boards in some way, but for the larger, more in your face (or in your shin, as the case may be) dark bronze planned areas, we'll treat them all this same way.


Then I let it dry and went around to wipe gimp clear of the excess.
Some time ago I put on the dark bronze with gold metal flake paint. That went on the portion of front wall interior surface that won't be behind cabinetry. I also topped the camper wing where the dinette cushions will sit. Even though that will be covered I just like to have surfaces finished as it seems to make for a homier experience. At the same time I had painted several boards associated with the inside surfaces of various open storage areas, most specifically the compartment below the fridge.
But as things turn out some times, the first coat of paint hadn't been strained before application, and the fast drying paint had taken on a bit of lumpy consistency IN THE can from previously being open to the air for too long while I had painted the back wall. As they say, you live and learn. Suffice to say it left small (and large) globules in the finish coat. These became quite apparent after the first coat of maple tinted poly, and even more so once air-borne dust had settled over the days and then especially once I tried to wipe off the dust. Something had to be done, but what?
I started by using a putty knife to shave the globules off as much as possible while trying not to dig through the bronze into the white primer below. Here's how it looked after being mostly scraped, but with a non-scraped example, just to the left of the window opening.


Then I gave it all a steel-wool buffing. And because I could see at least some isolated areas where there were tiny white primer spots visible, I decided it needed a little more dark color covering. But as I was already into the first coat of poly, so choices were limited.
I wasn't certain the maple tinted poly would cover good enough so I choose another can on the shelf that had a mahogany tint. It is still a reddish tone, almost purple, very deep and rich, makes the board look almost black, but of a brown tones instead of a grays. And it hides the metal flake, but we both really liked the result, so glossy and mirrored, but infinite depth and richness. And I'd bet on a sunny day where the sun is lighting up a patch, the metal flake will appear.
I did the same thing on the under dinette boards. We'll fix the smaller area boards in some way, but for the larger, more in your face (or in your shin, as the case may be) dark bronze planned areas, we'll treat them all this same way.


Then I let it dry and went around to wipe gimp clear of the excess.
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