2013 ram

Dealers love situations like this

I think you'll take a serious beating financially. Nothing wrong with either truck but trading a 2013 for a 2013? Really?

odis wrote:
Hello,
I know this question is one only I can answer but want some input.
Thinking about trading my 2013 2500 hd 6.0 373 ext cab for a 2013 short cab long bed Cummings 3500 single wheel Asian with 410's.
I'm getting 14mpg and 9 pulling my camper.
What do y'all think?
Thanks
Jim

My thoughts are you will miss the back seat, and likely will not get much better mileage. You didn't say what you are towing. Since both vehicles are SRW they probably have about the same payload. The 4.10 ratio offers some advantage to towing, but 3.73 is adequate. Seems to me like you are going to take a big hit on depreciation and not gain much.

It doesn't hurt to talk money with the dealership and see what it will cost you. But keep in mind you are basically flushing some money down the toilet. But it's your money, and if you want a new truck then by all means do it. I bought a brand new Ram dually in 2010 and traded it in on a 2011 F350 SRW 7 months later. Note to self, if you are just driving around killing time......stay out of the car lots.

odis wrote:
Hello,
I know this question is one only I can answer but want some input.
Thinking about trading my 2013 2500 hd 6.0 373 ext cab for a 2013 short cab long bed Cummings 3500 single wheel Asian with 410's.
I'm getting 14mpg and 9 pulling my camper.
What do y'all think?
Thanks
Jim

You can't get 4.10s with the Cummins in a SRW, only 3.42.

RamTC wrote:

odis wrote:
Hello,
I know this question is one only I can answer but want some input.
Thinking about trading my 2013 2500 hd 6.0 373 ext cab for a 2013 short cab long bed Cummings 3500 single wheel Asian with 410's.
I'm getting 14mpg and 9 pulling my camper.
What do y'all think?
Thanks
Jim

You can't get 4.10s with the Cummins in a SRW, only 3.42.

Correct. 3.73 and 4.10 ONLY available on the DRW.

The length of cab will make little difference in fuel mileage. If you need a 3500 for weight capacity, go for it. Otherwise, you are good.

But, in todays resale market, the old, single, standard cab, is a dog. Almost everyone wants a rear seat. If you buy a single cab, you better plan on running it into the ground, or losing your shorts selling earlier.

catfishmontana wrote:
Note to self, if you are just driving around killing time......stay out of the car lots.

Wow! I think that I'll start a thread on this topic. Add casinos to your list.

I know I will take a big hit. I tow 7500~ could go up. I'm on the fence. Don't know what to believe on mpg. Plan on keeping it if it's reliable. Like the engine break. Sticker says 342 upgrade 410 or something like that ?

Thanks
Jim

Take a jar of Vaseline with you:) Hey it's only money, you'll get some more next week, or however often you get paid.

odis wrote:
I know I will take a big hit. I tow 7500~ could go up. I'm on the fence. Don't know what to believe on mpg. Plan on keeping it if it's reliable. Like the engine break. Sticker says 342 upgrade 410 or something like that ?

Thanks
Jim

I know you're looking at 13's. But for a point of reference I have a 12 2500 CTD 3'73's and get on average 10.5 towing a 85-9000lb 5'er. Recently on a trip from Redding CA to Bend Or I got 11.9 mpg. Mostly flat the whole way.
Supposedly the 13's get a little better mpg's. I get 17.5 empty running 65 mph on the freeway. I can get 18+ running 55+/- on the hwy. Around town it sucks. But I'm retired and don't do a lot of driving when not camping so for me the in town mpg isn't that big of a deal.