2018 Ram Dually and Arctic Fox 990
I first had a 2015 Ram 3500 Dually tradesman 4wd Cummins when I got my 990. I have run the 2015 across the scales and including tong weight of 7x14 trailer (motorcycle inside) and 1/2 tank of water, food for almost a week and the wife and I sitting in the truck: I saw 13920 lbs
Before I even loaded the camper in the 2015 I put the heavy Big Wig sway bar on it based on what it did for me on my 2006 SRW Ram I sold when I bought my 2015.
The 2015 would ride level, but always had some sway caused by corning and in fact even going straight on the roads we have around here in PA.
I tried Energy Suspension poly blocks on the upper over load springs. these raised the truck 1" in the back loaded. This helped remove even more sway. But these blocks were crushed pretty far by the weight of the 990 and they were not going to survive. I did run these 60,000 miles on my 2006 Ram SRW 3500 but that was towing a 5er, and some time spent carrying a Wolf Creek 840 which is lighter.
This year I decided to trade in the 2015 and custom order a 2018 Ram with the options I wanted. Dually, Cummins, Aisin, Laramie, 2wd with 3:73 gears. Took a couple months and the truck came in. First thing I did was move my sway bar to new truck.
Loading camper with same load above (accept the couple hundred lbs of tong weight) I found the truck was riding perfectly level but it still has some sway all the time.
I thought I would try air bags, but everything I read, have seen, and found out by calling the manufactures the air bags will make the truck ride higher in the back loaded, plus dealing with air. I know myself, I will always be screwing with air pressure.
I was not interested in using those bump stops that carry load as I also run this truck empty some off season.
I did not want to go with blocks on the upper over load springs as they also still come into play empty.
So I tried the Torklift lower stable overloads. I installed them last night. My truck was a no drill application. Install was simple, but be sure to read the whole directions, including the last couple pages as it explains the little locator bolts that stop the bracket from spinning on the spring. My springs are wide enough that using 2 bolts would not allow the plate to sit flush on the spring.
Since the camper was already on truck, basically I just disconnected my fast guns, lifted camper straight up to take the load off the truck and installed lower stable loads without moving the truck.
I installed all 3 stable load wedges on every corner.
Before height with camper loaded was 37" from ground to rear fender lip centered on hubcap.
Installed height with camper loaded was 37.5" from ground at same location. Great, still basically riding level enough that if I ever find a level campsite I still don't need blocks :).
Now the test ride:
Pulling out of the driveway I immediately can feel the difference, The truck feels solid. I live in SE PA out in the farm land where the roads are never level. The roads seem to follow the contour of the land which causes side to side sway as the truck leans one side to other following road. I can no longer feel this sway. I also notice I tend to not need to steer the truck to make it go straight on these roads.
I don't know if it rides any rougher on bumps but definitely a difference in side to side sway. Keep in mind its still a dually with over 4000lbs sitting up high in the bed and will never ride like a passenger car, but the Torklift lower Stableloads made a nice difference. I would recommend them to anyone.
and another nice part is when I unload the camper I can just pull a pin, use a 3/8" ratchet with extension and disengage the Stableloads.
I think I can do this through the wheel well but I did not try.
Could the lower stable loads be a 100% solution? I do not know, and I am not willing to pull my sway bar to experiment :).
But knowing what I have experienced, if I was prepping my truck again for a pickup camper I might try the lower Stableloads first, than add the sway bar if needed.
it will be a couple weeks until our next trip, but that is when the Wife decides how much they help with the ride:). I will report back here findings.
Before I even loaded the camper in the 2015 I put the heavy Big Wig sway bar on it based on what it did for me on my 2006 SRW Ram I sold when I bought my 2015.
The 2015 would ride level, but always had some sway caused by corning and in fact even going straight on the roads we have around here in PA.
I tried Energy Suspension poly blocks on the upper over load springs. these raised the truck 1" in the back loaded. This helped remove even more sway. But these blocks were crushed pretty far by the weight of the 990 and they were not going to survive. I did run these 60,000 miles on my 2006 Ram SRW 3500 but that was towing a 5er, and some time spent carrying a Wolf Creek 840 which is lighter.
This year I decided to trade in the 2015 and custom order a 2018 Ram with the options I wanted. Dually, Cummins, Aisin, Laramie, 2wd with 3:73 gears. Took a couple months and the truck came in. First thing I did was move my sway bar to new truck.
Loading camper with same load above (accept the couple hundred lbs of tong weight) I found the truck was riding perfectly level but it still has some sway all the time.
I thought I would try air bags, but everything I read, have seen, and found out by calling the manufactures the air bags will make the truck ride higher in the back loaded, plus dealing with air. I know myself, I will always be screwing with air pressure.
I was not interested in using those bump stops that carry load as I also run this truck empty some off season.
I did not want to go with blocks on the upper over load springs as they also still come into play empty.
So I tried the Torklift lower stable overloads. I installed them last night. My truck was a no drill application. Install was simple, but be sure to read the whole directions, including the last couple pages as it explains the little locator bolts that stop the bracket from spinning on the spring. My springs are wide enough that using 2 bolts would not allow the plate to sit flush on the spring.
Since the camper was already on truck, basically I just disconnected my fast guns, lifted camper straight up to take the load off the truck and installed lower stable loads without moving the truck.
I installed all 3 stable load wedges on every corner.
Before height with camper loaded was 37" from ground to rear fender lip centered on hubcap.
Installed height with camper loaded was 37.5" from ground at same location. Great, still basically riding level enough that if I ever find a level campsite I still don't need blocks :).
Now the test ride:
Pulling out of the driveway I immediately can feel the difference, The truck feels solid. I live in SE PA out in the farm land where the roads are never level. The roads seem to follow the contour of the land which causes side to side sway as the truck leans one side to other following road. I can no longer feel this sway. I also notice I tend to not need to steer the truck to make it go straight on these roads.
I don't know if it rides any rougher on bumps but definitely a difference in side to side sway. Keep in mind its still a dually with over 4000lbs sitting up high in the bed and will never ride like a passenger car, but the Torklift lower Stableloads made a nice difference. I would recommend them to anyone.
and another nice part is when I unload the camper I can just pull a pin, use a 3/8" ratchet with extension and disengage the Stableloads.
I think I can do this through the wheel well but I did not try.
Could the lower stable loads be a 100% solution? I do not know, and I am not willing to pull my sway bar to experiment :).
But knowing what I have experienced, if I was prepping my truck again for a pickup camper I might try the lower Stableloads first, than add the sway bar if needed.
it will be a couple weeks until our next trip, but that is when the Wife decides how much they help with the ride:). I will report back here findings.
