Adding electric heat to coleman Mach3+

[Tyandkate]

Any one ever added electric heat to there rooftop unit? curious as a option to heat up the camper a bit with out the need of gas. Just curious if anyone uses it and the results.

[SoundGuy]

Lynnmor wrote:
The fireplace, or any portable heater, is hot at one spot and cold a distance away.

With our current 19' couple's model the furnace brings interior temps up within minutes then switches off, allowing an electric heater sitting on the floor to maintain a comfortable interior temp. However, in our previous Spree which was much longer I found that running a fan or the A/C on fan mode (if we could stand the racket :() really helped distribute warm air throughout the trailer, avoiding cold spots in areas well away from the heat source.

[Lynnmor]

I have a heat strip and an electric "fireplace". It sure is nice to just set the thermostat for the heat strip and go to dinner. No worries about things too close to other means of heat. I do use the fireplace more but the heat strip is a useful device and it does distribute the air better. The fireplace, or any portable heater, is hot at one spot and cold a distance away.

[SoundGuy]

Huntindog wrote:
There are advantages to both approaches. BUt overall, long term the heat in the TT will be the same.

Incorrect. Warm air rises - a heater situated on the floor is generating heat where it's needed, warming the interior of the camper and occupants as it rises and is distributed about the camper. :B An A/C mounted heater is generating heat where it's not needed, at the ceiling, where it's trapped and there is no one to benefit from that warm air. 😞 The only rationale I see for an A/C mounted heat strip is for blowing warmed air into the bed ends of a hybrid trailer, otherwise it's a useless exercise in futility when a $20 floor situated electric heater will prove far more effective at distributing warmed air where it's needed.

[Ralph_Cramden]

In order to install a heat strip on a Coleman it has to be the correct heat ready cieling assembly inside the trailer. If you have ducted AC with a wall mounted stat and the chill grill air dump louvers chances are you don't have the correct one, as the RV manufacturers don't typically use the heat ready cieling assembly as it costs more. The correct one is around $150 if that's the case. There are two different ones with the chill grill that look the same externally.

[Huntindog]

When it comes to heaters: Perception is NOT reality.

5000 BTUs is 5000 BTUs. It is the measurement of heat. Now a small heater that doesn't move much air, will feel warmer.... So long as the heat is directed at you. But it is NOT warming up the TT overall any more than a heating source that moves a lot of air at a cooler temp.

There are advantages to both approaches. BUt overall, long term the heat in the TT will be the same.

[pianotuna]

5118 btu's. Use the fan on low, and realize the furnace would probably output 4 to 5 times that many btu's.

Tyandkate wrote:
Do you happen to know the BTUs of that strip heat kit?

[SoundGuy]

Tyandkate wrote:
Do you happen to know the BTUs of that strip heat kit?

They're all the same, ~ 5600 BTU. Unfortunately you won't feel much because the A/C fan is forcing that warmed air out at such a high (and noisy) rate. 😞

[Tyandkate]

Do you happen to know the BTUs of that strip heat kit?

[Terryallan]

We had a heat strip in our Pup AC. Not really worth the trouble. Didn't heat it up at all. No different than turning on a hair dryer, actually. the hair dryer put out more heat

[gmw_photos]

pianotuna wrote:
Tyandkate,

That is why I replaced all the outlets in my RV. Even so I do not run 1500 watt heaters. I prefer to use the 900 watt or 600 watt setting on oil filled heaters.

Tyandkate wrote:
So to reference the electric heater to plug in to the wall. I purchased one plugged it in to a surge protector for the breaker protection. It popped in ten mins the cord was very warm to touch and the prongs were so hot you could barely touch them. Moved it to a gfi plug same results. I returned it. I don’t want to lose my trailer over a heater. I got the idea for the add on heat strip because the service wire to the unit is larger than the wire used to the outlets.

I have a couple of small cube heaters. One is 700W/1400W, the second one is 350W/700W. I use the smaller one on low as long as it will meet the needs.

[pianotuna]

Tyandkate,

That is why I replaced all the outlets in my RV. Even so I do not run 1500 watt heaters. I prefer to use the 900 watt or 600 watt setting on oil filled heaters.

Tyandkate wrote:
So to reference the electric heater to plug in to the wall. I purchased one plugged it in to a surge protector for the breaker protection. It popped in ten mins the cord was very warm to touch and the prongs were so hot you could barely touch them. Moved it to a gfi plug same results. I returned it. I don’t want to lose my trailer over a heater. I got the idea for the add on heat strip because the service wire to the unit is larger than the wire used to the outlets.

[ksg5000]

Here's an alternative It's silent, safe, and not that expensive. Popular unit used by many Rver's and in my book better than relying on modification to air conditioner units which are loud.

[ScottG]

Chris Bryant wrote:

The best would be the toe kick heater- even 2 1000 watt heaters.

A big X2 on that one.
It would be so nice to have that heat blasting across the floor.
Unfortunately my toe-kicks are too puny (height wise) 😞

It would be a great system for anyone with room for one though!

[gmw_photos]

I for one would not want to listen to the noise of the fan of either my roof air, or in the case of cheap-heat, the furnace.

I like my quiet small cube heater.

But then I don't have a basement that I need to heat.

[Chris_Bryant]

My main problem with the a/c heat strip is that even on low, it moves a lot of air, so while it is adding the same ~5600 btu/her heat that a small heater adds, the perception may be of less heat.

The best would be the toe kick heater- even 2 1000 watt heaters.