Today I began the removal of bad patching on this 2005 Hybrid we recently acquired. The skylight and vent in the bathroom (sound familiar) was badly patched and on our first camping trip we had torrential downpours that flooded the bathroom. So since then I've been researching here and other TT forums for examples, youtube, etc.
I believe this can be partially reroofed. There is solid full EPDM adhesion from the front edge for about 14 feet - full width, then I have loose but intact EPDM until the Skylight openings and rotted wood around that area...see pics.
I could get away with a 6' by 6' EPDM "patch" once the structure is replaced but I think going full width with one seam across the roof would be better. Appreciate the DIY pros opinion on this. But wait theres more.
The roof deck is a Luan sandwich with polystyrene foam and in this back area over the rear bunks and bathroom wall I dont see any beams or structure. I imagine the Luan/foam deck can span the 4.5 feet and use the bathroom wall top as a bearing, but where are the beams? I cant see any in that last 6 feet of exposed deck wood, Luan foam assembly. Should I replace this deck structure with the same Luan/Foam board? I cant find this material at Home Depot/Lowes. Forget Camping World, those guys are trying to sell me a 40 foot roll of EPDM for a full reroof for $1400+ today.
Again, thanks in advance for any input.
I believe this can be partially reroofed. There is solid full EPDM adhesion from the front edge for about 14 feet - full width, then I have loose but intact EPDM until the Skylight openings and rotted wood around that area...see pics.
I could get away with a 6' by 6' EPDM "patch" once the structure is replaced but I think going full width with one seam across the roof would be better. Appreciate the DIY pros opinion on this. But wait theres more.
The roof deck is a Luan sandwich with polystyrene foam and in this back area over the rear bunks and bathroom wall I dont see any beams or structure. I imagine the Luan/foam deck can span the 4.5 feet and use the bathroom wall top as a bearing, but where are the beams? I cant see any in that last 6 feet of exposed deck wood, Luan foam assembly. Should I replace this deck structure with the same Luan/Foam board? I cant find this material at Home Depot/Lowes. Forget Camping World, those guys are trying to sell me a 40 foot roll of EPDM for a full reroof for $1400+ today.
Again, thanks in advance for any input.
A 2nd piece was cut and glued to fit the area that was prepared.
I will let it set up til next weekend and then apply 60 mil EPDM and re-install all the edge trim as detailed previously (butyl tape, screws, inserts, caulk). I also ordered a new Refrigerator vent cap as the original is cracking and breaking up just by me bumping it doing this work.
I will let it set up til next weekend and then apply 60 mil EPDM and re-install all the edge trim as detailed previously (butyl tape, screws, inserts, caulk). I also ordered a new Refrigerator vent cap as the original is cracking and breaking up just by me bumping it doing this work.
I cut a full width sheet of FRP (90-1/4" x 48"), coated the existing deck and the back of the FRP with DAP Weldwood Contact Cement which doesnt disolve the foam.
Installed the FRP panels this week. Heres a shot showing pretty clearly the water damage stain area. I took the luan upper layer back to whatever point in was fully adhered, then removed all loose material, brushed the surface and vacuumed it ready for glue. Where there was a difference in thickness of the old layers I laid a big bead of liquid nail against that edge to fill the gap a bit.
So we are nearly in a prepared state to patch, we still need to remove some of the rotted luan layers down to adhesion. I plan on installing FRP in place of missing luan/wood, directly adhered to the foam. The foam is intact so it will hold. Why put back a material that is again vulnerable to water damage (should it ever happen)? Using FRP will provide stiffness and super flat surface for the membrane to adhere.
Once that assembly was able to be pulled away I had work room to remove the membrane which had a strip of Eternabond put over it. More scraping and complaining.
On the other side (canopy side) of the Antigua, we have a more complex condition. The canopy frame/roller is mounted directly through the side molding, with bolts through the molding fabric channel into the top wall edge of the Antigua:
I had to release the tension on the canopy frame to get a cresent wrench to access the bolts, remove them and then remove the molding.
I had to release the tension on the canopy frame to get a cresent wrench to access the bolts, remove them and then remove the molding.
Lots of caulk and white liquid roof scraping went on for hours yesterday. Taking the edges and surfaces back about 6 feet from the rear to a solid or patchable condition.
Heres how the factory did it. The roof membrane is adhered to the deck and runs past every edge for 2 inches. The back of the 2 inch flap that goes down over the side gets a Butyl strip....continuous along each edge.
The molding channel is then screwed over the membrane and caulked on its edges.
Heres how the factory did it. The roof membrane is adhered to the deck and runs past every edge for 2 inches. The back of the 2 inch flap that goes down over the side gets a Butyl strip....continuous along each edge.
The molding channel is then screwed over the membrane and caulked on its edges.
The fasteners of this molding channel (alum) are hidden under a vinyl insert. In this horizontal side molding, the factory wrapped the vinyl back behind the molding all the way to the first screw. Not sure the logic with that if its in fact a removable insert, its ruinded upon first removal if you dont carefully discover this condition and want to re-use it.
More dis-assembly. I cannot find a DIY user thread for any TT RV type that goes into detail about edge condition dis-assembly and repair. These moldings look typical on most HTT/TT/RV's so I hope this is useful...its not pretty.
The corner detail of 3 moldings have to be taken apart to get a new membrane under them.
The corner detail of 3 moldings have to be taken apart to get a new membrane under them.
I had to make sure the wiring for the lights werent in my path of cutting! I screwed in support blocks to the walls to transfer any load through the wall to the floor frame. So the completed deck support is installed:
