I've used regular Delvac for at least 150,000 of my 205,000 miles with no problem, so I reckon I will continue doing so. I ran full synthetic once and when I had my oil changed for me a couple times I used something else. I don't know if the newer trucks require full synthetic or not or what the oil change intervals for them are (am interested to hear though). IF I'm starting a firestorm here, please don't fan the flames. I'm not trying to but I know on car forums oil questions seem to start fights. I'm just curious, not needing viscosity and breakdown figures, etc. but analysis figures from those who have had it done and the conditions the oil was run in would be nice to see.

well, my opinion is that as long as an oil meets the spec's called out by the vehicle mfg, there isn't really any difference between the majory oil brands. I've run several oil brands in vehicles, and when I've sent samples off to blackstone labs for analysis, different brands yielded basically the same analysis results for similar oil change intervals and driving on any given vehicle. And none so far have shown anything unusual in the analysis either.Given all the analysis results I've had so far, I've also concluded that at least GM and Mercedes oil monitoring is VERY CONSERVATIVE. Even at the time the monitor says change oil, every time an analysis shows oil TBN still high and lots of useful life left in the oil.I've run Delvac before seems like a good oil. So, no more this 3K, or 5K oil change interval stuff, when it says change it, I change it. No sooner.

As long as the oil meets the Cummins API or test standards for your engine then the brand really doesn't matter. You can run any approved oil that gives you peace of mind. Cummins recommends Valvoline because they have a marketing agreement with them, but just about every oil out there that is an approved alternative on the oil registration list on Quickserve. There are going to be many brand loyal people who tell you to use a certain oil, but I would think that the people that make your engine would probably know best. Below is just the begining of the Cummins oil registration list (trust me, it is a looonnngg list).The 2013+ Cummins trucks have a recommended oil change interval of 15k miles. Using synthetic does not change the recommended oil change interval per Cummins. Below is the oil grade(NOT weight) recommendations depending on your climate per Cummins.

albow wrote:I've used regular Delvac for at least 150,000 of my 205,000 miles with no problem, so I reckon I will continue doing so.So why ask the question to start with ? Really ??You have two answers already: Any brand name oil that meets the engine maker's spec's will be fine. Now make that 3.This about like asking: What is the best flavor of ice cream.

albow wrote:I've used regular Delvac for at least 150,000 of my 205,000 miles with no problem, so I reckon I will continue doing so. I ran full synthetic once and when I had my oil changed for me a couple times I used something else. I don't know if the newer trucks require full synthetic or not or what the oil change intervals for them are (am interested to hear though). IF I'm starting a firestorm here, please don't fan the flames. I'm not trying to but I know on car forums oil questions seem to start fights. I'm just curious, not needing viscosity and breakdown figures, etc. but analysis figures from those who have had it done and the conditions the oil was run in would be nice to see.Use what meets your mfg's spec. Run any major brand like Delo or Rotella and you'll be fine. Synthetic is up to you if you see the need for it, I don't. I run the Delo 400 that goes on sale at Costco for $29.00 for 3 gallons. Oil is Oil if you stick to major brands that meet your mfg's spec. The only variable is the oil change interval. Lot of smoke and mirrors when it comes to oil marketing.

Yeah, I agree with the smoke and mirrors. I think my model says change at 7500 if severe duty. I'm actually more concerned about my car since the interval is much shorter and neither of the 2 cars or trucks have a change time light. Do the new trucks have them? The new year long Mobil1 looks excellent on their website tests but they don't make the weight I need for my car. Quite interesting since Mobil1 is on the oil cap. They actually claim they don't make an oil period for my car, apparently due to an old Chrysler spec best as I can tell, but they do make that weight and I've been running Mobil1 from the get go in it. That weight has always been hard to find. 0-40 for a 2006 Chrysler 300C SRT8. Maybe I need to spend money on an analysis to help decide.

Any oil brands or types to avoid? | Good Sam Community

LIKE2BUILD
Explorer
Jun 15, 2017
ShinerBock wrote:
You are correct in terms of viscosity. From that data I have seen from Cummins, the only time synthetics is really needed is at colder temps. There is not much of a difference viscosity wise at hotter temps. For most that live in warmer climates, synthetic oil does not add any real benefit when it comes to viscosity to justify the extra cost.

Right. Technically I could run 15W40 in spring through fall and 5W40 through the winter. Winters in central Illinois can be mild and we can have dips into 0*F and below. If the 5W40 is good for all temperature ranges I think I'll just stick with it and then I don't have to worry if I temps what viscosity to run and when.

KJ
ShinerBock
Explorer
Jun 14, 2017
LIKE2BUILD wrote:

The chart shows 5W40 good in all directions but 15W40 only good at 0*F and above. Technically, the only difference in the two should be viscosity at lower temps.

You are correct in terms of viscosity. From that data I have seen from Cummins, the only time synthetics is really needed is at colder temps. There is not much of a difference viscosity wise at hotter temps. For most that live in warmer climates, synthetic oil does not add any real benefit when it comes to viscosity to justify the extra cost.
LIKE2BUILD
Explorer
Jun 14, 2017
albow wrote:
Got to be a misprint on the upper temp range. So, the current recommendation for a Cummins is 15K, even when used for towing, i.e. severe duty, or are you stretching it out like me and only tow occasionally? Mine is a paltry 3,750 severe and 7,500 non severe

I'm not sure about a misprint. If you look on Page 289 of the 2014 Ram Diesel Supplement you'll see what I'm talking about.

The chart shows 5W40 good in all directions but 15W40 only good at 0*F and above. Technically, the only difference in the two should be viscosity at lower temps.

These charts are from Viscopedia. Basically, if you look at viscosity values at 30*C, you'll see 15W and 5W are nearly identical. 30*C is a typical hot summer day, so even when the engine is 'cold' on those days your 15W40 is flow just about the same as 5W40 would be. Once the oil warms 50 *C there is no difference at all.
Sam_Spade
Explorer
Jun 14, 2017
Lynnmor wrote:
LIKE2BUILD wrote:

So, I just run Rotella T6 5W40 year 'round at 15K change intervals.

KJ

Of course you know that T6 has changed about six months ago. It now has reduced anti-wear additives and no longed is approved by Ford. When my old stock runs out, you can be sure that I won't run an inferior oil.

Well it is odd to hear that because..........

The motorcycle community thinks that they have added Moly to the formula, which would be an ADDITIONAL anti-wear additive and makes it not compatible with the wet clutches on bikes.

Now I wonder what the true story IS.
Durb
Explorer
Jun 14, 2017
My engine is about the same as yours. I have a good supply of Delo 400LE CJ4 oil that I bought from Costco when they were discontinuing it to make room for CP4. When that is gone I'll have to revaluate. I do change my oil at 5k-6k due to the relatively low use my truck gets. In my opinion suspended dirt in the oil does more damage to an engine than oil breakdown. I could never get myself to run 15K on an oil change. Right now I am at $45 to change the oil with Fleetguard filter and it takes about 20 minutes, a simple and inexpensive maintenance chore.
albow
Explorer
Jun 14, 2017
ktmrfs wrote:
the lower zinc level is primarily an issue with flat tappet cams. Many, maybe most, of the newer diesels and cars run a roller cam, so it isn't as much of an issue.

Best thing to do is use a CK oil, not a CK SN oil. Since they aren't SN rated, they don't need to meet the lower zinc level.

But that is easier said than done.
Yeah, primarily an older vehicle issue, but if you look at the article I linked, the diesel oils only have a minimally higher amount of zinc in the last several iterations to come out.
albow
Explorer
Jun 14, 2017
LIKE2BUILD wrote:
albow wrote:
...I don't know if the newer trucks require full synthetic or not or what the oil change intervals for them are (am interested to hear though).....I'm just curious....analysis figures from those who have had it done and the conditions the oil was run in would be nice to see.

My 2014 Ram manual gives a little conflicting information. The generic owners manual says to run 15W40. But, if you look in the diesel supplement it's a little different. There is a chart with arrows that shows 15W40 from 0*F and just points out past 32*F. But then there's another arrow for synthetic 5W40 that points below 0*F and beyond 32*F. I could be wrong, but I the Cummins equipped trucks ship with 5W40 in them.

So, I just run Rotella T6 5W40 year 'round at 15K change intervals.

KJ
Got to be a misprint on the upper temp range. So, the current recommendation for a Cummins is 15K, even when used for towing, i.e. severe duty, or are you stretching it out like me and only tow occasionally? Mine is a paltry 3,750 severe and 7,500 non severe
ktmrfs
Explorer II
Jun 14, 2017
the lower zinc level is primarily an issue with flat tappet cams. Many, maybe most, of the newer diesels and cars run a roller cam, so it isn't as much of an issue.

Best thing to do is use a CK oil, not a CK SN oil. Since they aren't SN rated, they don't need to meet the lower zinc level.

But that is easier said than done.
FishOnOne
Nomad
Jun 14, 2017
albow wrote:
FishOnOne wrote:
I would stay away from oils that have a dual rated diesel and gas ratings of API CK4 and SN which reduces the anti wear additives zinc and phosphorous. This would include Mobil Delvac and Chevron Delo.

At least until we see some UOA on these dual rated oils.
These would be very hard to find and ck4 wouldn't even meet my 2003 engine requirements. I once ran an older formulation of diesel oil in my car for the zinc but as you will see in the linked article, there's not much you can do now and there are some drawbacks to the zinc and phosphorous as well as benefits. https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2012/10/18/tech-101-zinc-in-oil-and-its-effects-on-older-engines/

I ran Delvac in my 05 6.0PSD for ~170k miles and it was a great oil. That was a API CI4 Plus and later the CJ4. It was actually a synthetic blend but wasn't advertised as such.

API CK4 is supposed to be backwards compatible and will be the only oil available in the near future.
Lynnmor
Explorer
Jun 14, 2017
LIKE2BUILD wrote:

So, I just run Rotella T6 5W40 year 'round at 15K change intervals.

KJ

Of course you know that T6 has changed about six months ago. It now has reduced anti-wear additives and no longed is approved by Ford. When my old stock runs out, you can be sure that I won't run an inferior oil.

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