Anyone running BFG All Terrain KO2's on their truck?

[webejpn]

So I bought my 2015 Silverado used about 2 months ago. It had a newer set of BFG All-Terrain KO2 LT265/65 R18 on it which is load range E which is perfect for towing our camper.
When I test drove it I noticed the tires were kinda loud. But since I have significant hearing loss and wear aids in both ears I didn't think it would bother me much. Well it's getting on my nerves as well as anyone that rides with me. So for the heck of it I downloaded the decibel app today. Sure enough, I hit 35mph and I'm at 87-91 decibels. At idle I'm at 55 decibel. It stays steady at 87-91 regardless of my speed over 35. They quiet down a bit if I'm making a sweeping curve on the freeway, but otherwise they're loud.

Curious if anyone else is experiencing this with a similar setup?
Hate to pull nearly new tires, but I think the money would be well spent.

[webejpn]

I called about a dozen places last night in my area and nearby areas and no one does tire truing or shaving. I thought for sure with all the race tracks around here someone would have offered that service. Guess it's deal with it or sink the money into a new set 😞

[CapriRacer]

drsteve wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
^ So a vehicles weight theoretically calls for 35psi in a P tire and that equates to 50psi in a E tire? Don't need to run them that high unless you need the load capacity.

CapriRacer is one of our resident tire engineers. I'm reasonably sure he has a sound reason for that statement.

Yup, that's right.

An LT type tire needs 15 psi more to carry the same load as a P type tire of the same dimensions. (For those who are going to check, don't forget to include the 1.1 derating factor for P type tires used in an LT application.)

[FishOnOne]

cummins2014 wrote:

Harold Fairbanks II wrote:

garyp4951 wrote:
My alignment shop told me that running tires more than 10psi under the max pressure will cup them.

Your tire shop was wrong.

I am running my new Toyo AT2's 80 rear 60 front , when towing . 50-55 rear, 60 front empty. Time will tell on the cupping, the OEM firestones had no cupping. They wore down very smooth ,and fast 🙂

My 3500 Ram calls for just 60 psi max on the front, although the OEM tires , and the Toyo's call for 80 psi max, but apparently not needed on the front, as the weight changes very little when loaded or unloaded.

I believe you'll be very pleased with the Toyo's.

[drsteve]

Grit dog wrote:
^ So a vehicles weight theoretically calls for 35psi in a P tire and that equates to 50psi in a E tire? Don't need to run them that high unless you need the load capacity.

CapriRacer is one of our resident tire engineers. I'm reasonably sure he has a sound reason for that statement.

[Mike_Up]

webejpn wrote:
So I bought my 2015 Silverado used about 2 months ago. It had a newer set of BFG All-Terrain KO2 LT265/65 R18 on it which is load range E which is perfect for towing our camper.
When I test drove it I noticed the tires were kinda loud. But since I have significant hearing loss and wear aids in both ears I didn't think it would bother me much. Well it's getting on my nerves as well as anyone that rides with me. So for the heck of it I downloaded the decibel app today. Sure enough, I hit 35mph and I'm at 87-91 decibels. At idle I'm at 55 decibel. It stays steady at 87-91 regardless of my speed over 35. They quiet down a bit if I'm making a sweeping curve on the freeway, but otherwise they're loud.

Curious if anyone else is experiencing this with a similar setup?
Hate to pull nearly new tires, but I think the money would be well spent.

I had that exact size on my 2012 F150 Screw 4WD and they were really quiet. Don't know what you may be hearing. What I hated was their lack of traction in the rain. For that reason, I won't be a repeat buyer. I was running them at 47 psi which is what I needed in rating and where even tread wear was shown by the chaulk test.

[Grit_dog]

^ So a vehicles weight theoretically calls for 35psi in a P tire and that equates to 50psi in a E tire? Don't need to run them that high unless you need the load capacity.

[CapriRacer]

webejpn wrote:
So what's your recommendation based on everything i've posted?

First, check your vehicle tire placard. It will be on the driver's door frame.

My book says your truck came with P265/65R18's, not LT265/65R18's. It also said the specified inflation pressure for those P type tires is 35 psi. That means the LT's should be inflated to 50 psi.

Please note: I am not a fan of replacing P type tires with LT type tires because of that inflation pressure change. That increase changes the tire's spring rate and that has handling implications.

Second, contrary to what some have said, there's no fixing a tire once it has developed irregular wear. The best you can hope for is to have a new wear pattern worn on top of what is already there and covers it up. In this case, I don't think that is likely.

What was the cause? Probably alignment. It is my opinion that the published alignment tolerances are too wide by half - that even alignments within those published tolerances can cause irregular wear. You need to be within the inner half of the tolerance to assure good tire wear.

And that assumes the target value is good for tire wear - and in many cases, it is not.

It also assumes that the load you are putting on the truck is not skewing the truck too much.

So I think a look at the towing specs vs the trailer specs are in order. You might need to weigh the package to make sure you are not overloading things.

Truing tires? Yes, that used to be a thing - that was mostly used because there was no way to correct an "out of round" tire assembly. I put those quotes there because the physical dimension was only part of the problem and truing the tire only addressed that one issue.

Tires have gotten a lot better over the years and I would expect it to be difficult to find any of that equipment still in use.

OK, that's a start. There may be more to do as things are discovered.

[RayJayco]

webejpn wrote:
What kind of shop does "truing" ? Any chain places or is it going to be local mom and pop shops?

truing tires in appleton wisconsin
This should give you a place to start with some numbers to call and ask. You can replace 'truing' with 'shaving' in the search as they are the same thing. Green Bay seems to be the closest larger city so you might try that as well.

I still think that you should get your shocks and suspension checked first...

[webejpn]

What kind of shop does "truing" ? Any chain places or is it going to be local mom and pop shops?

[mudfuel07]

webejpn wrote:
Truck only has 45k on it, so i would hope the shocks aren't already shot.

I thought the exact same thing about some sort of "shave" technique. I know alot of guys used to do it for offroading for better traction before all the fancy tires came around.

It's called truing. I just had it done on a set of tires for my truck since they were so out of round that they wouldn't balance. Cheap tires, big mistake. I run BFG's for a few years and never had problems with wear, rotated them every 4k when I changes the oil and they still had decent tread after about 45k when I would get new ones.

[RayJayco]

I would lean towards shocks or suspension issues in general. You might try pushing down on vehicle and if it continues up and down more than once, you likely have bad shocks, however I would go to a shop that does suspension work and have them check it.

The mileage can be irrelevant depending upon how the vehicle was driven by previous owner and the surface conditions that it was driven on. 'Catching air' 1 time can ruin shocks, suspension, etc., as an example...

What will you do if you replace tires and same thing starts happening again?

I would seriously get the suspension checked and perhaps research having the tires trued before buying new tires. JMHO
Good luck!

[drsteve]

webejpn wrote:
Truck only has 45k on it, so i would hope the shocks aren't already shot.

I thought the exact same thing about some sort of "shave" technique. I know alot of guys used to do it for offroading for better traction before all the fancy tires came around.

At 45K, the factory shocks are shot.

[webejpn]

Truck only has 45k on it, so i would hope the shocks aren't already shot.

I thought the exact same thing about some sort of "shave" technique. I know alot of guys used to do it for offroading for better traction before all the fancy tires came around.

[RayJayco]

webejpn wrote:

CapriRacer wrote:
Guys,

The term *cupping* is widely used - and misused. Technically, the cause is out of balance or a bad shock - BUT - it has been used so often to refer to other forms of irregular wear, that the term is used interchangeably for diagnonal wear, one sided wear, feathering, etc. Besides, it's kind of hard to distinguish between the various types of irregular wear.

Since most people are amatuers when it comes to identifying irregular tire wear - including many who work at tire shops - I think we need to cut these people some slack about what words they use.

So what's your recommendation based on everything i've posted?

I have forgotten the actual term used as it was in the 80's, however they can 'shave' the tire a bit to remove the cup or scallop and give you more tire life, depending on the depth, etc... How good are your shocks?
Perhaps it was called 'truing' the tire...? :h