Forum Discussion
CharlesinGA
Aug 26, 2018Explorer
Recently acquired a 2008 Dutchman/Thor FS180. It is destined to replace my motorhome until my desired trailer (25ft Airstream) is delivered by the Unicorns.
In the meantime, I determined that I will not use CHINA bearings in it. The ONLY front wheel bearing on a car that I have ever had fail was a CHINA made one. Yes, I have replaced a few "just because" but no failures except this one. So off the B&D Industrial. I got the eight bearings and races, for $132 with tax (near their cost) and these were USA Timkens. All of the CHINA **** went in the scrap bin. Packed properly with Amsoil Moly fortified grease. Should last a while.
I ended up at a trailer place to get the seals, and a stud/lugnut to replace one that had damaged threads. 25 ton Dake hydraulic press and an arbor press make short work of installing bearing races and seals.
For packing bearings I highly recommend this packer, it does a better job than hand packing (and I have hand packed hundreds of wheel bearings in both cars and airplanes), Lisle 34550
I do not like the way trailers use castle nuts and either cotter pins, or like the Dutchman (dang Lippert axles), the bend over tabs, as it is difficult to get the desired adjustment. The Fords I am used to have a plain nut, and a stamped steel lock device with a dozen "points" pressed into it, and some number of ears on it, so you set the nut where you want it, and then install the stamped lock, and keep trying different combinations until the holes and slots line up, all without moving the nut.
Anyhow, I will be able to tow with peace of mind that its a 99 44/100% chance of towing hundreds of miles from home without having a seized bearing destroying my axle and stranding me.
Charles
In the meantime, I determined that I will not use CHINA bearings in it. The ONLY front wheel bearing on a car that I have ever had fail was a CHINA made one. Yes, I have replaced a few "just because" but no failures except this one. So off the B&D Industrial. I got the eight bearings and races, for $132 with tax (near their cost) and these were USA Timkens. All of the CHINA **** went in the scrap bin. Packed properly with Amsoil Moly fortified grease. Should last a while.
I ended up at a trailer place to get the seals, and a stud/lugnut to replace one that had damaged threads. 25 ton Dake hydraulic press and an arbor press make short work of installing bearing races and seals.
For packing bearings I highly recommend this packer, it does a better job than hand packing (and I have hand packed hundreds of wheel bearings in both cars and airplanes), Lisle 34550
I do not like the way trailers use castle nuts and either cotter pins, or like the Dutchman (dang Lippert axles), the bend over tabs, as it is difficult to get the desired adjustment. The Fords I am used to have a plain nut, and a stamped steel lock device with a dozen "points" pressed into it, and some number of ears on it, so you set the nut where you want it, and then install the stamped lock, and keep trying different combinations until the holes and slots line up, all without moving the nut.
Anyhow, I will be able to tow with peace of mind that its a 99 44/100% chance of towing hundreds of miles from home without having a seized bearing destroying my axle and stranding me.
Charles
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