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Battery charging

bpetroni
Explorer
Explorer
Hi I'm new to the forum and pretty new to Travel Trailer ownership. I have had issues with dead batteries while boondock camping. I have done current draws and I'm not getting anything but I keep having to replace my batteries and I am using the deep cycle marine units. I have been doing some research online and have read that some of the onboard invertors can do damage to batteries by overcharging them. I wanted to try bypassing my invertor by charging directly from my generator via a smart charger to see if this resolves my issues. Is this I good plan and I'm thinking I should isolate the positive and negative cables from the battery coming from my trailer while charging.

Thank You!
26 REPLIES 26

bpounds
Nomad
Nomad
bpetroni wrote:

Thank You, I'm lucky enough to be able to store my TT on the side of the my house and plug it into shore power. But the it sits uncovered so won't the extreme heat in AZ be bad for the battery life?


No. Just leave it plugged in, and set up a routine of checking the electrolyte level.
2006 F250 Diesel
2011 Keystone Cougar 278RKSWE Fiver

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Why would you think a cover would keep it cooler inside?

bpetroni wrote:
able to store my TT on the side of the my house and plug it into shore power. But the it sits uncovered so won't the extreme heat in AZ be bad for the battery life?
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi,

I don't think solar is hard to install at all.

bpetroni wrote:
Thank you, is solar difficult to install? Looks like you just mount the panels and route the wiring to the controller and batteries?
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

bpetroni
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Here is another good system from solarblvd.

200 watt kit for $370, including shipping


Thank you, is solar difficult to install? Looks like you just mount the panels and route the wiring to the controller and batteries?

bpetroni
Explorer
Explorer
bpounds wrote:
bpetroni wrote:

Thank you to everybody who is replying. Sorry about the lack of information. My TT is a 2012 Keystone Hideout 27RBWE. My converter is a 12V 55 AMP unit OEM. I only go for boodock for about 5 days at a time so I am using one battery it is a 75ah unit. I charge it with a Champion 1550 (Starting Watts) 1200 (Rated Watts) generator.

I don't have a battery disconnect switch. Based on your responses I may be damaging my batteries when I store my trailer. Is it best to keep the batteries on a trickle charger while stored?


Your Keystone probably has a WFCO converter. That's mostly what they use. It is a 3 mode charger, and while it isn't the greatest, it works okay and should safely charge and maintain your batteries.

How you handle storage depends on where you store it. If you have the luxury of keeping the trailer plugged into shore power, that is probably the best. Just check the electrolyte level every few months. I prefer that over some kind of trickle charger.

If you store remotely away from power, a properly installed battery disconnect will isolate the battery, and that works well. A fully charged battery, with zero current draw, will store very well. The exception being very cold temps, in which case removing the battery and taking it home with you would be good. Don't really need a trickle charge in that case, but opinions vary on that. I don't have cold weather experience in that regard.

Sounds to me like storage is killing your batteries, but running them down low while camping kills them too. You've got a generator. Use it everyday while camping, including the very first day. Beats me why folks pay good money for a generator, and then avoid using it. A well exercised generator is a happy generator, and happy batteries.


Thank You, I'm lucky enough to be able to store my TT on the side of the my house and plug it into shore power. But the it sits uncovered so won't the extreme heat in AZ be bad for the battery life?

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Here is another good system from solarblvd.

200 watt kit for $370, including shipping
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
280 watts $224

Controller $87

Parallel connectors $26

So all in $400 to $500 depending on wire and conditions, self install.
Or use portable until you get them mounted.

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Universal Agm

It is good.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

bpetroni
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for all of the great advice, I was wondering what you guys think of this battery?

https://www.amazon.com/100Ah-SOLAR-WIND-CYCLE-BATTERY/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1470362374&sr=1-1&keywords=group+27+deep+cycle+battery

bpetroni
Explorer
Explorer
smkettner wrote:
Yes lead-acid prefers to be 100% tip top charged in storage for longest life. Charge 48 hours continuous and then disconnect a cable for best results.

Your converter is probably a WFCO that says 3 stage charging but is notorious for only charging in normal mode 13.6 volts. Basically this is a trickle charge as the 55 amps taper off very quickly. Your battery needs 14.4 to 14.8 volts for a fast charge and minimizing generator time. WFCO is chronically undercharging the battery. I recommend an upgrade or use a 30+ amp portable.

The single 75ah battery is small for off-grid camping. Really need two group 27 or two GC2 for about 220 ah.

Have you considered 200+ watts of solar?


Thanks for the advice, I want to purchase a solar system but have held off due to the cost

bpetroni
Explorer
Explorer
gmckenzie wrote:
5 days is a lot for 1 battery. Some ideas:
2 golf cart batteries
Switch to LED lights inside
Get a portable solar panel
Get something like this https://www.amazon.ca/305M-Fuse-Buddy-Mini-Tester/dp/B000W8FMXU to test for draws on individual circuits. If there is a big draw and it's not something you need, pull the fuse.


Thanks for the advice!

Do you use 6V or 12V Golf Cart Batteries?

daveyboy12
Explorer
Explorer
smkettner wrote:
daveyboy12 wrote:
Where would I go about finding the converter? I have a 2010 puma travel trailer and i've not bumped into a converter? I see where the battery has a cable going from the trailer tongue into the front of the trailer body, but I can't trace it any further.
Look near or in the stack of 12v fuses and 120v breakers.


Ok thanks, that is in the rear of my trailer. Must be about 25 feet from the battery.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
daveyboy12 wrote:
Where would I go about finding the converter? I have a 2010 puma travel trailer and i've not bumped into a converter? I see where the battery has a cable going from the trailer tongue into the front of the trailer body, but I can't trace it any further.
Look near or in the stack of 12v fuses and 120v breakers.

daveyboy12
Explorer
Explorer
Where would I go about finding the converter? I have a 2010 puma travel trailer and i've not bumped into a converter? I see where the battery has a cable going from the trailer tongue into the front of the trailer body, but I can't trace it any further.