Battery operation question

Hi,

Before removal, jumper around it first. Create your own "power failure" by flipping off the pedestal breaker (or just unplug).

BBdawg wrote:

I think I'll remove the key switch and see if the battery automatically picks up upon a power failure, like it should. The park we are in has power failures occasionally .

Thanks
Randy

Hi BB,

Mine, including the OEM are inside.

One would think this type of key switch would be more than sufficient for a 30 amp RV service/ 12 volt dc converter BUT, maybe not for an exterior mount that is not covered or protected. I'm thinking the marine style would be far more suitable.

Hi Roy,

The ones I use are 100 amps continuous and 1000 amps contacting. Around $6 at Napa. I use a pair to disconnect my inverter from both battery banks.

RoyB wrote:

Also these KEY SWITCHes are not the best quality one to use. Im not sure what the contact rating are but have heard of them shorting together internally when switched under under load...


Roy Ken

Hi,

Normally only when in storage.

BBdawg wrote:
On your rig (or others), when would you use the battery disconnect?

Thanks
Randy

beemerphile1 wrote:
A disconnect in the negative (ground) side will prevent the breakaway brakes from operating if towed with the switch open.

Excellent point and could have been a problem. As I mentioned in my last post I think I will now just remove the switch completely unless someone gives me good reasons to replace it.

I think I'll remove the key switch and see if the battery automatically picks up upon a power failure, like it should. The park we are in has power failures occasionally so I will just wait it out and do some more internet digging in the meantime.

Thanks
Randy

RoyB wrote:
could you pass along the converter model number... Might give someone on here a clue...

Your frame ground and DC NEGATIVE cable on the converter should not be switched. Only the battery connection should be switched.

Roy Ken

Sorry about leaving out the model Parallax #7300. My fingers were quicker than the brain.
I really like your setup and with the marine switch it looks much cleaner. I have not inside area to locate the switch close to the battery which was why I used the key switch like in your picture. I did place it between the neg lead on the battery to the negative lead that goes to the converter, not to ground.

BUT, I was told, don't remember when, NOT to put it in the pos + lead, only the neg lead.
I guess I got that turned upside down.
Time for a switch re-do or a plain removal might be best as we are full timers now. Not sure when I would ever use it. I only wanted to cut the battery power while it was in dry storage so the batteries did not run down. I had discovered a number of items were still drawing battery power even when everything was thought to be shut down.

On your rig (or others), when would you use the battery disconnect?

Thanks
Randy

Since you aren't towing the switch location doesn't matter. However, a disconnect on a trailer should always be on the positive (hot) line and the breakaway switch should be wired directly to the battery in front of the switch. A disconnect in the negative (ground) side will prevent the breakaway brakes from operating if towed with the switch open.

could you pass along the converter model number... Might give someone on here a clue...

Your frame ground and DC NEGATIVE cable on the converter should not be switched. Only the battery connection should be switched.

Also these KEY SWITCHes are not the best quality one to use. Im not sure what the contact rating are but have heard of them shorting together internally when switched under under load...


The BLUE SEA Marine quality switch contacts are rated at 350AMPS and have the make before break contacts which helps in reducing arcing when switching...

My battery setup has all of my NEGATIVE terminals going to a separate FRAME GROUND connections so using the negative path of the batteries didn't work out for me... My four position battery switches are located in the POSITIVE side of the batteries.


This is quick drawing of my battery switch layout which is only unique to my installation. Might give you some food for thought for your installation.


quick shot on my battery install on my popup


Roy Ken

beemerphile1 wrote:
If you have to open AND close the disconnect it seems to me like the switch is bad. Opening and closing it again wipes the contacts and makes it work again temporarily.

I have a "key" type disconnect switch. I guess I'll spray it with wd-40, let it sit a few days then force some dielectric grease down into it. Any other cleaning idea vs replacement?

I might add, I added this disconnect when I had the trailer sitting for an extended period of time and the batteries would drain. I placed the switch in the negative leg just after the battery terminal which is the - leg that goes to the converter. As we now live full time in the TT, I never open the switch, except now, when the 110v power fails and I need to go turn the switch on and off to get the batteries to kick in the 12v.
Good or bad?