Best way to run fridge while not level

[crazyro]

Had a weird thought this morning... I know TT needs to be level in order for fridge to work properly. However, if that's not an option, I wonder if it's better if TT was unlevel side to side or front to back for ammonia to be "happier" in the pipes. Anyone care to take a stab at guessing or does anyone know? 🙂

(Mods, tried to move to Tech where it may be a better fit; please feel free to do so)

[LarryJM]

SoundGuy wrote:

LarryJM wrote:
IMO the only safe way to ensure all this real time is to install the ARP type system mentioned in a prior post in this thread and this $100 or so investment to protect a $1700 to $3000+ appliance is well worth the price of admission so to speak. Only with this do you again IMO have a fighting chance to keep things under control and maximize the life of your frig.

OR just turn the fridge off, a couple of hours won't make any difference at all ... I do this every time I'm hitching up or backing up onto our significantly sloped driveway. Same when we arrive at campground - one turns off the fridge while the other checks in, later we turn the fridge back on once we're situated and leveled on our campsite. If we stop along the way, same thing unless we're going to be all day, in which case I'd take the time to reasonably level the trailer so I can then leave the fridge running. A replacement fridge is costly - better safe than sorry. No fridge issues in 20 yrs using this method. :B

That's what you might feel comfortable with, but I sort of look at what you do like not carrying collision auto insurance because you are "CAREFUL" and haven't needed it in XXX years. To me it's that I have had encounters with "MR. MURPHY" in the past and for me the small price of the ARP system is for me well worth removing "MR MURPHY" from the equation. This is based on my belief that there might be "other factors" as I described in my prior post that could effect just how unlevel a frig might really be to cause damage that once can't accurately determine.

Larry

[profdant139]

Yes -- that is why I posted that link to a specific app! I also tried other "leveling" apps, but this one gave the best readout in degrees, rather than just showing a bubble.

[Lynnmor]

profdant139 wrote:
Problem solved with a free app! Just lay your phone down on the shelf above your fridge. Check the reading, and then rotate the phone 90 degrees:

iHandy Level

Max is three degrees side to side (looking straight at the fridge), and six degrees to front and back of the fridge.

See my post a few days ago.

[profdant139]

Problem solved with a free app! Just lay your phone down on the shelf above your fridge. Check the reading, and then rotate the phone 90 degrees:

iHandy Level

Max is three degrees side to side (looking straight at the fridge), and six degrees to front and back of the fridge.

[afidel]

Well, hopefully Dometic will redesign their system to take advantage of this patents which is now expired and allows for a corrosion inhibiting system that eliminates sodium chromate. If they do that then the entire problem can go away. The risk of lawsuits and environmental claims based on the chromates used should hopefully be enough to get them to actually do the work necessary.

[profdant139]

SoundGuy, I like that solution -- quick and dirty! The fridge is well insulated -- nothing is going to happen to the contents in an hour or so.

[SoundGuy]

LarryJM wrote:
IMO the only safe way to ensure all this real time is to install the ARP type system mentioned in a prior post in this thread and this $100 or so investment to protect a $1700 to $3000+ appliance is well worth the price of admission so to speak. Only with this do you again IMO have a fighting chance to keep things under control and maximize the life of your frig.

OR just turn the fridge off, a couple of hours won't make any difference at all ... I do this every time I'm hitching up or backing up onto our significantly sloped driveway. Same when we arrive at campground - one turns off the fridge while the other checks in, later we turn the fridge back on once we're situated and leveled on our campsite. If we stop along the way, same thing unless we're going to be all day, in which case I'd take the time to reasonably level the trailer so I can then leave the fridge running. A replacement fridge is costly - better safe than sorry. No fridge issues in 20 yrs using this method. :B

[LarryJM]

Lynnmor wrote:

profdant139 wrote:


It would be handy to have a clear, unambiguous, user-friendly guideline.

Do we have a volunteer (who is both tech-savvy and literate) who will draft up the standards??

And as long as I am wishing for clear guidance, the instructions would have to distinguish between side to side and front to back leveling, depending on the orientation of the fridge.

In my owners manual it says this:

The refrigerator is made to operate within 3° off level side-to-side and 6° off level front-to-back (as looking at the front of the refrigerator). Operating it at more than these limits can cause damage to the cooling system and create a risk of personal injury or property damage. Make sure the vehicle is level before you operate the refrigerator.

While that 3/6 deg number might be for a perfect frig installation where all the clearances and baffling are to spec which IMO in generally not the case so I'm not sure what the real numbers might be. All this is to ensure proper flow/levels to maintain circulation and to keep the boiler tube temps under control. IMO the only safe way to ensure all this real time is to install the ARP type system mentioned in a prior post in this thread and this $100 or so investment to protect a $1700 to $3000+ appliance is well worth the price of admission so to speak. Only with this do you again IMO have a fighting chance to keep things under control and maximize the life of your frig.

Larry

[Lynnmor]

profdant139 wrote:


It would be handy to have a clear, unambiguous, user-friendly guideline.

Do we have a volunteer (who is both tech-savvy and literate) who will draft up the standards??

And as long as I am wishing for clear guidance, the instructions would have to distinguish between side to side and front to back leveling, depending on the orientation of the fridge.

In my owners manual it says this:

The refrigerator is made to operate within 3° off level side-to-side and 6° off level front-to-back (as looking at the front of the refrigerator). Operating it at more than these limits can cause damage to the cooling system and create a risk of personal injury or property damage. Make sure the vehicle is level before you operate the refrigerator.

[profdant139]

Old Biscuit, that is a helpful photo -- thanks.

Based on all that has been said so far, is there a consensus on the safe limit of "how many degrees out of level?" This matters a lot, because there are many times when we have to park, at least for a little while, out of level -- for example, when we stop to do some shopping. If I could be sure that (for example) three degrees of inclination is no big deal, then I would not have to re-park the trailer, or put Lynx blocks under one tire, or whatever.

It would be handy to have a clear, unambiguous, user-friendly guideline.

Do we have a volunteer (who is both tech-savvy and literate) who will draft up the standards??

And as long as I am wishing for clear guidance, the instructions would have to distinguish between side to side and front to back leveling, depending on the orientation of the fridge.

[Old-Biscuit]

profdant139 wrote:
Someone above commented "don't worry, just go ahead and run it." I am no expert, but I have read that if you run the fridge when it is seriously unlevel you can cause the buildup of deposits that will eventually destroy the fridge. The more you run it in that condition, the worse it gets.

Does anyone know if this is true or not? Experts, feel free to chime in!!

Read my post on top of pg 2

Here is a cross section of RV Fridge cooling unit tube that has become blocked due to 'ACCUMULATION' of sodium chromate crystals

[beemerphile1]

rfinley wrote:
Or install this kit and not worry about it !!

https://www.arprv.com/products.php

PS. Not affiliated with the company in anyway, Just know it works well.

After all the recalls and worthless fixes, I installed an ARP system so we can sleep well at night. If the refrigerator starts overheating for any reason such as being off level, the ARP shuts it down and when cooled starts it again.

[JIMNLIN]

profdant139 wrote:
Someone above commented "don't worry, just go ahead and run it." I am no expert, but I have read that if you run the fridge when it is seriously unlevel you can cause the buildup of deposits that will eventually destroy the fridge. The more you run it in that condition, the worse it gets.

Does anyone know if this is true or not? Experts, feel free to chime in!!

True.
I ruined my fridge (burned holes in the pipes) in a new '84 Aljo 5th wheel trailer from sitting out of level beside my barn during the first 4 months. Lp fridge back then had to be level to work right and keep from burning holes in the tubes.
Later in the '96-98 era the LP fridge mfg industry changed things to new out of level limits like redracer posted.
As others say running down the road isn't a issue.

[profdant139]

Someone above commented "don't worry, just go ahead and run it." I am no expert, but I have read that if you run the fridge when it is seriously unlevel you can cause the buildup of deposits that will eventually destroy the fridge. The more you run it in that condition, the worse it gets.

Does anyone know if this is true or not? Experts, feel free to chime in!!