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Bolt post for bunk end broke off

segen77
Explorer
Explorer
Here's another one for all of you with more experience. The bolt post that the bunk end screw screws on to has broken off. One rivet is still partially stuck to the frame, and the other is a hole. It appears to have a wood frame backing. My question is, should I drill out the broken rivet and use really aggressive screw to put the bolt back on, or should I try another rivet? The potential issue I can see with trying another rivet is that I will have to drill a small hole in the wood backing for the rivet to fit into since I'm pretty sure the original rivets were attached to the frame before it was put into the trailer.

Thanks again for all they help and information.

Edit. The bolt is fine, it simply broke loose from the rivets.
Aaron Kennedy
13 REPLIES 13

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
I just figured it would go all the way thru the door frame...

I noticed in some of the photos I was looking at also had a bolt at the top of the door as well... Was held in tight with three bolts...

Great fix...

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

aepowell
Explorer
Explorer
Wow I have never seen one like that!
Anthony & Margie Powell
Sherman,Tx.
2001 Jayco Kiwi 23B
2013 Ram Slt Lonestar(yea its got a HEMI)

segen77
Explorer
Explorer
I appreciate everyone's help on this. I wanted to update with pics, and let you know I have fixed it. Basically, I had to drill out the broken screws or rivets that were in there, and was able to use a couple of heavy duty screws to reattach it.

I guess the way my bunk end attaches is very different from most on here.





Aaron Kennedy

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
AFter seeing all of this I am thinking your only so called easier recourse is too put a backing plate inside the trailer and run a new bolt all the way thru the inside wall aligned with the hole in the tent bed door.

On the inside must be wall trim in this area. I dont think it will look all that bad. Won't be nothing sticking in the inside area just a plate with a bolt head.

A carriage bolt going through a back plate with a square hole and the nut and locking washer on the back side od the plate on the inside wall would allow only the treaded part of the carriage to protrude through the whole assy and aligned with the outside door hole where you could use your screw-on knob. You may have to find some screw-on knobs to fit the carriage bolt thread.


Hopefull your inside backing plate can mount into a metal fame part around your door jam on the inside wall. All you would see inside would be maybe a small 2x2 inch plate with a round carriage bolt head showing... Paint that to meet your interior color and no one but you will notice it.

Don't know if you can redo the bolt on the ouside of the door frame or not since all that was sticking inside the outside frame was broke off or pulled out..

The fix of either side is probably going to involve the inside wall some to get to the area from behind the outside frame. ???

This all being submitted in the spirit of fixing something ideas. I know you are pondering for different ideas to use. I'm pretty sure you will not be able to puchase something from a company to fix this without doing something to your trailer wall and door jam frame...

I imagine water leaks from your door seals may have contributed to this. Things like this are always associated with the large doors that slightly warp over time and causes small water leaks around the seals. Just the nature of the beast...

Just thinking outloud here haha...
Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

segen77
Explorer
Explorer
I've also found an old picture of one of the knobs if it helps.
Aaron Kennedy

segen77
Explorer
Explorer
The pic above is the right year, and model, but wrong length. It still has some kind of latch. (this has made me realize that I need to get more pics of my trailer...)

I'm posting the only pic I have right now of my trailer that shows the knob, but it's really blurry. If you look closely you will see that there is just the black knob on the bunk (no latch of any kind) that is screwed onto a bolt.



I'll have the trailer tomorrow as long as the rain holds off, and will work on it then. I'll be able to post up better pics at that point.

I really appreciate everyone trying to help.
Aaron Kennedy

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
I finally figured out you have a 2001 KZ COYOTE from going back in your previous posts. Always neat to know what we are talking about...

Is this the BOLT unit you are talking about?





yet another imagine - I assume you have to remove a wing nut of something before lowering the bed frame.


If so might be able to search for additional pictures on-line to get a better understanding of what has failed.

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

segen77
Explorer
Explorer
The bolt attaches to the trailer wall itself. There's no way to get to the "back" without tearing a hole in the wall of the trailer. There are also no latches of any kind on this bunk end.
Aaron Kennedy

bid_time
Nomad II
Nomad II
Put a metal backing plate on the inside and use bolts and nuts and drill holes all the way from the outside through the new inside backing plate on the inside. Don't forget to use some caulk under the latches on the outside before you bolt everything down tight.

segen77
Explorer
Explorer
I wont be able to post a picture until the weekend at the earliest. I can understand the confusion though. Newer Trailer bunk ends are held on with a latch which is what you posted above. My trailer is a 2001 and back then it was literally a bolt that was attached the the frame of the trailer, and there was a hole in the bunk end where the bolt would go through. Then you would use a large nut (think of a wing nut) that will screw the bunk end onto the bolt. I'll keep looking online for an image I can link to, but hopefully this helps.
Aaron Kennedy

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
I typed the OP title into google search and came up with these two pictures. Don't know if this is what the OP is talking about or not...





Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

bikendan
Explorer
Explorer
poppin_fresh wrote:
Not following. Can you post a pic?


x2.
Dan- Firefighter, Retired:C, Shawn- Musician/Entrepreneur:W, Zoe- Faithful Golden Retriever(RIP:(), 2014 Ford F150 3.5 EcoboostMax Tow pkg, 2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255 w/4pt Equalizer and 5 Mtn. bikes and 2 Road bikes

poppin_fresh
Explorer
Explorer
Not following. Can you post a pic?
2016 Bullet 274BHS
2015 Silverado 1500 Double Cab
Andersen WDH