Brake magnet size

Im planning on a similar setup as wetlands, over at etrailer.com they have a 10 or 7 post junction box for fairly cheap that i am thinking of ordering...probably going to use #8 as i have some for free at work, then #12 stranded (which i will have to order as it seems no one locally stocks it) to the brake connection point, im thing i will use butt splices, as soldering could cause a weak point at the connection

westend wrote:

Olsy wrote:
Im trying to sort out how i am going to do all of my wire connections for the re-wire, anyone know off hand what size the pig tails are for the brake magnet connections?

Thanks all :)

Mine were 16 AWG.

My coils were 16 awg as well. Which for the actual coil at the point of use, works.

I soldiered the connection, heat shrink tubing and 3M 33 taped. If you solder the connection, make sure the connection is not under high flex. Not that hard to do, I tiewrapped the connection to the U bolt.

Olsy wrote:
Im trying to sort out how i am going to do all of my wire connections for the re-wire, anyone know off hand what size the pig tails are for the brake magnet connections?

Thanks all :)

Mine were 16 AWG. I chose to pull new wire from a tongue mounted box that has a termination strip. I pulled through plastic corrugated conduit and soldered the magnet leads onto my new wires.

Im trying to sort out how i am going to do all of my wire connections for the re-wire, anyone know off hand what size the pig tails are for the brake magnet connections?

Thanks all :)

After wondering why one of my trailer brakes wasn't heating up one of the drums after a fast stop, I found a broken wire.

So I started routinely using a clamp-on meter and checked the current after pulling the emergency break-away plug. The Ford controller adjusts the brake voltage/current according to speed, so there's not much at the brakes when parked.

But I kept checking drum temps by hand anyway, which was good because I again detected a cool drum even though the current was good. Turns out the bearing seal was bad and totally greased the inside of the drum.

So now I pretty much rely on hand checks of drum temp after a hard stop, and only occasional clamp-on meter checks of current.

katysdad wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:


However, unlike the wives tales pushed around on these forums, you CAN leave the magnets on for a LONG, LONG TIME. They are designed to be able to stop and hold your trailer for a minimum of 10 minutes (per Fed and state motor codes).
d

LONG, LONG time can damage the magnets. Have had trailers in the shop and the magnets got overheated and were ruined from extended time of full 12 volts on them. I'm not talking 10 or 15 minutes but several hours from the pin being pulled accidently or forgotten to put it back in after testing. If the trailer is plugged in to shore power the converter just compounds the problem as the battery doesn't discharge and reduce the voltage to them.

My point is using them AS they are DESIGNED DOES NOT BURN UP the magnets. They ARE designed to be able to withstand AT LEAST 15 MINUTES AT FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE.

Pulling the breakaway for TESTING PURPOSES (10, 15, 20 minutes)WILL NOT HARM THE MAGNETS provided you REMEMBER to reengage the breakaway pin into to switch when done. If you need more time, simply put the pin back in and wait 15-20 minutes for the coils to cool off.

The wives tale spread out on forums like this one, folks are BEING SCARED into thinking to NEVER, EVER, EVER pull the pin if they don't want to burn up the magnets. Therefore they NEVER, EVER, EVER TEST their breakaway.

Having your brakes AND the breakaway working properly IS a required item. There is no way anyone would know if their breakaway works or not if they are afraid to pull the pin....

I TEST my brakes and breakaway each and every time I hitch up, it IS the only way to know if it works. I don't get out on the road until I am satisfied it is in good working order.

Im not interested in wiring in an extra brake magnet, im definately going to do a re-wire, probably 8 gauge to a box above the axle then branch out to each brake from there in at least #12...i havent decided how i am going to make the connection yet, i am not a fan of solder but isnt ruled out...i am also going to rewire the junction box at the tounge of the tailer...thanks for all of the input guys

Gdetrailer wrote:


However, unlike the wives tales pushed around on these forums, you CAN leave the magnets on for a LONG, LONG TIME. They are designed to be able to stop and hold your trailer for a minimum of 10 minutes (per Fed and state motor codes).
d

LONG, LONG time can damage the magnets. Have had trailers in the shop and the magnets got overheated and were ruined from extended time of full 12 volts on them. I'm not talking 10 or 15 minutes but several hours from the pin being pulled accidently or forgotten to put it back in after testing. If the trailer is plugged in to shore power the converter just compounds the problem as the battery doesn't discharge and reduce the voltage to them.

JBarca, most excellent info!

Kind of hard to fully describe trouble shooting with only words.

I will echo the sentiment of the OEM wiring, while it is within the minimum proper specs, it simply is dropping way to much voltage over the distance. Add the wire resistance plus any resistance from corrosion at the splices often results in poor under performing brakes.

In the case of a single axle trailers the results is no brakes since the controller turns off the output if it does not recognize the return pulses...

Upgrading the wire is a bit more work but really pays out in better performing brakes, well worth the effort.

Some folks with a single axle have turned to adding a extra brake magnet (wire tying it to the frame) to prevent the controller from turning off. While it works, I am one the fence as to whether it is a good idea or not since it will fool the controller and yourself into thinking nothing is wrong.. But if it keeps you from not having brakes at all, it might not be a bad idea either.

I see Gdetrailer was typing while I was. Now you have 2 of us singing from the same hymn book. :)

PS, add some silicone spray lube on the O ring on the emergency break away switch. That thing can expand and contaminant it self in there to the point you rip the clevis out of the plastic pull pin trying to get it out. Nothing like having a saftey device corrode itself to death living on the A frame. A must is do this a minimum of once a year. More so if the camper lives stored outside.