Brakes not working after blown tire

[DiaperDude]

On our last trip we had some rather serious tire issues on our Passport. One tire completely threw the tread cap off and 2 others threw 1/2 of the tread cap off. Based on my pre-season inspection I knew the tires were due to be replaced and I was actually planning to replace all 4 tires the following weekend. I guess I pushed them about 1/2 a trip too far. Anyway, since the near blow out I noticed that my trailer brakes are not working on any of the four wheels. I checked all of the wiring at the hubs and did not see anything broken or pulled out. I verified that all of the electrical connections at the pig tail junction box were in place. I also switched brake controllers between our trucks (same controller and same trucks) and I got the same results. Finally I pulled the emergency break away braking pin and it did absolutely nothing. I did notice that both brake controllers which normally give a numerical read out while breaking were not displaying anything. They also were giving me an nc (not connected) code when I would start up the truck. Normally if hooked up to the camper I would get a c (connected) code.

So, any thoughts on what I should check next to solve this mystery?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[Golden_HVAC]

Hi,

Probably no need to pull the wheels to discover the problem, though you might need to pull off the wheel (where you had the blowout is likely) to repair the broken wire.

Look for a wire that goes into the 4 hubs under the trailer. You will probably find one that is damaged, or a connection that is preventing any of them from getting power. Fix that damage, and all should start working again.

You can test with a compos. Have it near a tire, and someone apply the brake manually in the truck. The needle should swing towards the rim, indicating the magnet is working. Of course you already know right now that none of yours are working, you will need to repair them first.

Also do not leave the emergency brake on very long. The magnets will have a full 12 volts applied to them, and they can overheat the coils, melting them. In normal use, only about 2-8 volts is applied to the magnet to apply some drag against the hub, and apply the brakes lightly pressure. It is only in a panic stop or the emergency switch is activated that full braking pressure is applied with a full 12 volts.

If you need more parts, try this place. eTrailer.com

Fred.

[old_guy]

did you pull the wheels and check the wires at the magnets? that might be where the break is.

[RCMAN46]

The problem is in the trailer. No need to check anything on the truck. The fact you said the break away switch does nothing indicates an open wire in the brake system.

If there are scotch locks in the wiring that is most likely the location. Replace them all with marine inline crimp connectors.

[westend]

You most likely have a break in the brake wiring circuit. If the brake wiring is in series configuration, interrupting just one wire will eliminate any braking. You'll need a multimeter or test light to test the wiring and see where the break in the wires exists.
Heres what I'd do: Make sure 12V is present at truck socket on brake pin of connector when brakes are applied Pinout of RV connections. Power brake circuit with 12V to trailer umbilical. Use test light to follow power back to the first brake magnet. Check entire brake circuit for power. If power is available in complete circuit, begin testing ground wire for continuity. Given the history related to the tire failure, I'd expect to find a broken or parted wire somewhere close to that axle end.