Bubbles in antifreeze flush

In response to NRALIER, not sure about the Drain Plugs. I open the Radiator drain plus and also drain the system from the heater hose area in the front of the MH. I drain out about the same amount (8-9 ga) I put in. I'm aware that there is some residual in the block and the length of the heater hose (40+feet). But with 8 rinses, you'd think it would be done.
In regards to cmeade, my MH normally has run at 180 temp. Only on hill climbs have I noticed that it will go up in temp. As I mentioned earlier, I really can't get the MH out of where it's located in order to take it out on drives. I've been steadily monitoring the temp guage to make sure that I've run it for 40+ min at normal op temp., as recommended by Cummins. As mentioned before, they seem to be in a quandary as to why to I have Bubbles? Other than it's the Restore product that is still trying to clean...obviously that needed to be flushed and they can't seem to understand why it's not flushing.

Ed 95682 wrote:
cmeade, Are you saying that I should allow it to run for a longer time period over the 40 min.? I ask this, as it's difficult to try to get the rig out from where it's located at this time to take for a drive. So all I can do is run it at fast idle, about 1500rpm. I'm now on the 8th rinse, and still have the bubbles.

Watch the temp gauge go up above normal temp and then drop to the 180 or less and thermostat is open.

Moved from Forum Technical Support

Ed, I've used Fleetguard Restore and Restore Plus, and can vouch for the fact that it takes FOREVER to get it rinsed out.

Does the 8.3L have drain plugs in the block? If so, they should be removed every time you drain the cooling system. Otherwise, you are leaving several gallons of water behind in the engine.

Also, you should just use tap water to flush with until you are satisfied it's rinsed, then rinse it once or twice with distilled water so that whatever water is left behind is MOSTLY distilled.

What I have done on my truck is remove the block plugs, open the radiator drain, and remove the coolant filter so that the water will run out of each location. Then, put a garden hose in the degas bottle (does the 8.3 have one of those?) and turn the water on as fast as necessary so that the degas bottle remains full. Use two garden hoses if you have to. Periodically start the engine and let it run for a few minutes just to help mix the clean water inside the engine. I'd make an effort to drive it around a few times with the rinse water in the system just to make sure the t-stat's open, especially when you're doing the final rise with distilled. It's probably never going to be bubble-free, but you can get it rinsed good enough this way.

:):)

cmeade, Are you saying that I should allow it to run for a longer time period over the 40 min.? I ask this, as it's difficult to try to get the rig out from where it's located at this time to take for a drive. So all I can do is run it at fast idle, about 1500rpm. I'm now on the 8th rinse, and still have the bubbles.

BTW when you warm it up to operating temp of 180 you may not be hot enough for thermostat to open. Diesels with no load take longer than when driving to warm up. My Ram CTD goes up to 210 then themostat opens and it drops to 196 and stays there give or take a few degrees depending on driving conditions.