Building a shop for our travel trailer

Here is where the shop will go.

Make sure the doors are big enough for when/if you upgrade fifth wheel or motorhome.

We are putting in two14 x 16 foot doors, one on each end. Good tip. Keep them coming, and thank you for the comment.

Looks like a fun project.

Yeah, DB had a 12' door on his shop garage but the new 5er doesn't fit. He's moved into the bay with 14'doors. His loss, my gain :-)
Are you putting water, electric, and a dump station in the new building?

i put drains in my 1400 square foot garage
i wash my rigs inside , winter and summer
i did all of th following :
take the old tv from your house and put it on a shelf where you can watch formula one , indy car , NFL , inside.
up high mount large speakers so you can play jazztrax while you are working on your cars .
install a water heater . it will take the chill off in winter by osmosis.
plus you need HOT water to scrub the bugs off the trailer front , scrub the tires , and clean camping gear .
although i installed flourescent lights when i built mine i have discovered that multiple switched porcelain cheapy light fixtures work better .
put CFL bulbs in all of them .
you are gonna want maybe 5 or 7 light circuits switched so you can focus on your working area .
install one porcelain CFL light that is not switched but rather is on 24 / 7 .
that way when you walk in day or night you always have light to find the light switches .
the obvious : 240 volt receptacle to run your welder
a 30 amp 120V circuit to run the RV for the day or 2 while packing / unpacking.
plenty of 20 amp receptacles to run radiant heat dishes where you are working .
a small compressor is handy .
obviously a roll away tool chest and a work bench .
we have a conventional refer that is always full of cold soda , ice for the ice chests , various frozen meats , all handy when packing to go .
i am sure that i missed some .
gotta go . i am getting my boat ready to go in my 1400 square foot garage .

Lowsuv wrote:
i put drains in my 1400 square foot garage
i wash my rigs inside , winter and summer
i did all of th following :
take the old tv from your house and put it on a shelf where you can watch formula one , indy car , NFL , inside.
up high mount large speakers so you can play jazztrax while you are working on your cars .
install a water heater . it will take the chill off in winter by osmosis.
plus you need HOT water to scrub the bugs off the trailer front , scrub the tires , and clean camping gear .
although i installed flourescent lights when i built mine i have discovered that multiple switched porcelain cheapy light fixtures work better .
put CFL bulbs in all of them .
you are gonna want maybe 5 or 7 light circuits switched so you can focus on your working area .
install one porcelain CFL light that is not switched but rather is on 24 / 7 .
that way when you walk in day or night you always have light to find the light switches .
the obvious : 240 volt receptacle to run your welder
a 30 amp 120V circuit to run the RV for the day or 2 while packing / unpacking.
plenty of 20 amp receptacles to run radiant heat dishes where you are working .
a small compressor is handy .
obviously a roll away tool chest and a work bench .
we have a conventional refer that is always full of cold soda , ice for the ice chests , various frozen meats , all handy when packing to go .
i am sure that i missed some .
gotta go . i am getting my boat ready to go in my 1400 square foot garage .

Great advice.

some other things that work
i bought 7 Gorilla Racks from Costco
looks like this :
http://www.gorillarack.com/gr7400di-storage-rack-p-68.html

the advantage is that i can move them any where i need to without them being attached to the structure.
plus they are heavy duty and i can load anything i have on any shelf for storage.
i mostly have the first shelf at a height that i can slide an 18 gallon rubbermaid underneath on the concrete floor.
i have labeled my rubbermaids with heavy stuff on the floor
that gives me 3 more elevated shelves with a heavy duty capacity.
i used semi-gloss paint for washability on my sheetrocked walls and ceilings.
i used 1.5" thick steel INSULATED garage doors .
i installed 3 windows . all crank-out type . all elevated for security .
an "awning vent " window mounted high allows me good ventilation , privacy , and security .
i used a regular steel side entrance man door for security .
i added an auxilliary " implement room " to one side of the building .
that room is where the gasoline , lawn mower , snow blower , fertilizer , garden chemicals , wheel barrow , garden tools , hoses , chain saw , and so forth reside . keep the stinky stuff out of my garage . that room has its own steel door to the outside only .
i used r26 for attic insulation and wish i had used r48.
i wish i had installed an outside vented attic fan with a switch and thermostat .

Lemme know when you're on the road so I can borrow the shop, I have a few projects that would be much easier with the TT indoors...

Pick the location for your 30amp receptacle, run wire capable of being upgraded to 50amp down the road.
I placed a switch just inside the service door for a entry light, placed it on the dedicated circuit so it's always hot.
My building isn't that big but I put 120v receptacles on both sides of each post and each side of the big door but not on the corner posts.
Individually switched ceiling fans mounted in the trusses.
My 24x30 has 3 2x12' for the top bands, trusses on 24" centers, sheeted with OSB then plastic wrapped then the metal, ridge vent. No sweating inside since it was built in 2008.
Wainscoting is good as it makes replacing damaged metal easier. Bottom 36" instead of a 14' panel.
I had a rollup door installed as I didn't want a slider or tracks inside. If I had it to do over I'd get a door with a horizonal hinge in the center like a hangar door. I've seen a farmer that has these type doors and they provide and shaded porch like outdoor work (or play) area.
I envy your space, enjoy and good luck.