Hi all,When I got my brand new TV 6 years ago (details in sig below), and was shopping for my first TT, I was kindly educated by some of the folks on this board on how to properly estimate how much trailer I could buy (dry weight, then estimate the "people & stuff" load) and how that would fit the max load capacity parameters of my TV (hitch weight, payload, GVWR and GCWR.) So with this information, I constructed a nice Excel spreadsheet that does all of the math for me.The current TT is around 4800lbs dry; according to my spreadsheet calcs, I am about 100lbs over GVWR (1.4 percent) fully laden for camping. I feel the TT has been a good fit for my truck, and easy to tow (although, I haven't gone up any big mountains with it...)Now I'm shopping around for the next TT. I'm looking at a nice TT that runs 5900lbs dry; that would put me about 250lbs (3.6 percent) over the GVWR, and also 100lbs over max payload (5.2 percent)My question is, how concerned do I have to be about going over the published weight max's of the TV (especially now that I don't have to worry about invalidating a warranty...) Are these max's on the conservative side, and by how much can I safely exceed them realistically (like maybe up to 5 percent ??)If it's definately NOT a good idea to go over these maxes, what could I do to increase the payload and GVWR maxes on my TV? (other than getting a bigger TV of course :P)Thanks all!Will

I've been driving my Outdoorsman, overloaded by my tiny 20ft trailer the past three years now. To Alaska and back, to Death Valley and back. It hasn't exploded yet, nor have any wheels fallen off.About all I can notice, the tires seem to have worn out quickly, with only 30k miles. They're 10 ply tires too!Between my weight, my dog's weight, trailer tongue weight and all the gear / supplies I carry in the bed, I'm over the 1200lb door sticker.Shopping for a 3/4 ton now, but will probably end up with a 1/2 ton again due to the money. I need to discipline myself to carry less stuff I guess.I don't know of any legitimate ways to increase your payload on a 1/2 ton. It is what it is. A weight distributing hitch will help shift some of that weight to the front axle, if your rear is squatting a lot. I put some spring helpers on my rear end and gained about 2" from it.

35,000 people died by auto last year alone, some think autos should be outlawed, and you want to know if it's safe to be overloaded?

IMO, it's a fair question. From what I can figure, GVWR is often less than the combined limits of the front and rear axles. So what factors go into setting GVWR? Is it stock tire load capacity? Is it frame capacity? Is it based on braking performance? Vehicle registration fees are at least partly based on GVWR in many states so there is some benefit to owners for the GVWR to stay below certain levels. I've noticed that the F150 can be delivered in a number of different GVWR capacities but I can't imagine the 6800# and 7000# versions have different axles, springs, brakes, or frames. It makes sense that we don't want to exceed axle ratings as bearings and axle shafts can and do break. It makes sense to not exceed tire ratings because tires can and do blow from being overloaded. But if you are under on those ratings but over GVWR, what's likely to happen?Is there anyone with direct knowledge of how GVRW is set by the manufacturers that can chime in?

If you want to see what people do carry on their rigs, look up overweight in the truck camper section. There are many people there that take different approaches to exceeding the GVW, and the trucks carry the loads quite well.I know because I was one. But then again, I started with a one ton truck, not a half ton truck. You start getting into trouble mostly with the ability to control the weight behind you, and when that goes out of whack, then what started as a nice day can end up a lot more serious.Axles are rated to carry a certain amount, but the rating of an axle is usually based on the original tires. The same truck can have different axle ratings because one had tough tires, and the other has dressy tires.You can add springs, get stronger brakes, get a top quality hitch, change wheels and tires... or get a bigger truck.

GVWR is a combination of the 'whole' NOT a 'sum' of the components.GVWR takes in to account the frame strength, axle ratings, suspension, wheels and tires.Payload is GVWR Minus UVW.......then one has to subtract weight of people, stuff, accessories, stuff to determine 'actual available' payload.Air bags, Timbrens, add-ons etc. do NOT change/increase GVWR or payload.One either accepts and complies with mfg. ratings or justifies going over them.Typically wheels/tires are the weakest link in the 'ratings' numbers

Can I safely exceed the GVWR and payload on my TV?

SoCalDesertRid1
Explorer
Jul 04, 2016
I had to take my daughter's TV out to her house this weekend. It was threatening to rain, but fortunately didn't. I had several other of her things to bring to her also.

Some things ended up on top of the TV when I loaded everything. The TV may have been over it's weight rating, not sure, I didn't weigh everything I put on top of it.

Anyhow, the TV made it there in one piece. We watched it later that day. :)
coolbreeze01
Explorer
Jul 03, 2016
Can you? I didn't read all the posts. Good luck.
PA12DRVR
Explorer
Jul 03, 2016
If your as-loaded, maximum full of fuel, ready to camp weight is 3.6% over your vehicles GVWR, it's not something I'd sweat, but I suspect you could find places to take out a couple hundred #'s and be back under.

If you're basing everything on dry weight, that 3.6% overload will become 15% before you know it or even higher and that deserves serious consideration.

No other person can tell you "It's safe" (or unsafe with certainty). If all your weights are as-loaded, ready to go, unless you're using a CAT scale every trip, that 3.6% is probably within a rounding error and not significant.....but for the sake of thoroughness, I'd suggest weighing everything on an as-ready-to-go basis to see if the 3.6% is close to reality.
SoCalDesertRid1
Explorer
Jul 03, 2016
Tires, wheels, springs, shocks, sway bars and rubber suspension bushings can all be upgraded, to help the truck better carry the weight, in an overloaded situation. I have done all of these on a few of my trucks.

There is very little that can be done with the brakes to make them work significantly better. Drilled/vented rotors can help them not fade as much during repeated braking. Different pads/shoes can be used too, for a small improvement in braking, or for longer wearing. However, none of this does much to truly significantly help braking ability.

Aside from swapping in another axle from a bigger truck, with bigger brakes on it, you're stuck with whatever the truck was made with. And therein lies the main problem with running a truck overloaded: Poor braking ability.

This is a major reason why I decided I was done with driving overloaded F350's and got a truck with significantly bigger brakes (after one of my F350's was destroyed in a fire). I got a class 7 commercial truck, and loaded it to significantly less than it's 33,000 GVWR, while also quite a bit heavier than F350 could ever hope to carry. It weighs 20,000 lbs and stops on a dime. :)
rhagfo
Explorer III
Jul 03, 2016
smkettner wrote:
A hundred pounds over? People do it every day. Can't recommend it but there are far more important safety factors while driving than 100 pounds extra payload.

Best I can say is put it on a scale and know your real numbers.

Wow! Three pages in before someone caught the fact the OP's post was based on DRY weights and calculations!
Best thing to is load it up hook it up and head for the scales with what you have now. This is with the TV and TT loaded as you would for a camping trip and get your real weights!
The. Post back with TV Listed GVWR, axle ratings, and tire size and tire weight rating. Without that information it is all speculation and guess work.

You also state different numbers being over GVWR and Payload. The max payload is caculated at the factory as GVWR - TV Curb weight. The vehicle GVWR is the number to be watching, and more importantly TIRE and axle ratings.
It is your choice to run over ratings, some do it just fine others have issues.
There are many that are within all ratings and have terrible issues.

Let us know what you find out at the scales!!
otrfun
Explorer II
Jul 02, 2016
wing_zealot wrote:
Otrfun's post was supposedly a quote from a post he says he saw somewhere else posted by someone he doesn't know. That's the way it always is lots of hyperbole no facts, names, court case numbers, dates, or anything. Didn't happen, blowing smoke.
I posted this quote because I believed it was on-topic, and an interesting and entertaining read. Everyone is more than welcome to read into it what they will. Thought it would promote some good debate. Which it has. Mission accomplished.
TomG2
Explorer
Jul 02, 2016
I realize that people simply have to bring diesel into the picture, but the OP has a 1500 pickup, a model with which I am familiar. After adding suspension improvements and LT tires, I got rid of my 2012 Silverado 1500 when it developed a tendency to sway at a little over its GVWR.
rhagfo
Explorer III
Jul 02, 2016
wing_zealot wrote:
rhagfo wrote:
Otrfun, the example in your post is an extreme case and the owner was either not aware or just didn't care!!!!! Over tire, and axle, you really can't fix stupid!

Yes many like myself run over GVWR, but respect axle and tire ratings! I have seen rigs like you described, they just don't look at anything but what looks cool!
I my case we were headed to Oregon coast on a snow covered Highway 6, it was a 4X4 diesel big tires, pulling a TT toy hauler. There was a snow plow in front and we were going about 45 to 50 and the guy was about a car length behind the plow!

Any sudden movement slowing or stop of the plow he would be wrapped around it.
Otrfun's post was supposedly a quote from a post he says he saw somewhere else posted by someone he doesn't know. That's the way it always is lots of hyperbole no facts, names, court case numbers, dates, or anything. Didn't happen, blowing smoke.

The post in Cummins Fourm

These get to the same point as diesel vs gas.
Now days for a given size of truck there are as many as 40 differnt GVWR, on a whole 2500's are the same truck as a 3500 (even more in the past) with softer springs, and a sticker that maxes the GVWR at 10,000#!
In my personal case I am over GVWR, but about 500# under stock rear axle rating about 1,300# under the camper package sized rear tires.
So that must make my rig extreamy overload and an extream danger to all others on the road.
TomG2
Explorer
Jul 02, 2016
I have driven 85 mph in a 65 mph zone, I have driven with a .10 alcohol blood level when the limit was .08. I have driven overloaded vehicles and got by with it. I know more than all the cops, doctors, and engineers put together.

If the OP is asking permission, "Can I?". Looks like he got it.
wing_zealot
Explorer
Jul 02, 2016
rhagfo wrote:
Otrfun, the example in your post is an extreme case and the owner was either not aware or just didn't care!!!!! Over tire, and axle, you really can't fix stupid!

Yes many like myself run over GVWR, but respect axle and tire ratings! I have seen rigs like you described, they just don't look at anything but what looks cool!
I my case we were headed to Oregon coast on a snow covered Highway 6, it was a 4X4 diesel big tires, pulling a TT toy hauler. There was a snow plow in front and we were going about 45 to 50 and the guy was about a car length behind the plow!

Any sudden movement slowing or stop of the plow he would be wrapped around it.
Otrfun's post was supposedly a quote from a post he says he saw somewhere else posted by someone he doesn't know. That's the way it always is lots of hyperbole no facts, names, court case numbers, dates, or anything. Didn't happen, blowing smoke.

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Can I safely exceed the GVWR and payload on my TV?

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