Cargo Trailer Shopping

Reality Check wrote:

A $3k trailer is just that...it will pull and keep stuff covered, but I wouldn't be putting a bunch of heavy point load items in there.

Excellent point.
We used cargo trailers as tool trailers when I had my small construction company. These trailers were moved in a 8 state area to different construction work sites. My first one was a 7k GVWR trailer with 14" tires. Every trailer I bought with 13"/14" I upgraded to 15" or 16" P tires. I found them to last 35k-45k miles at max axles loads.
I found taller tires roll over obstacles/potholes/curbs/etc easier than shorter tires.
WE learned a lot with this trailer.
As business grew we needed more tool trailers with more robust axle/frames so I moved on up to 10k trailers. Depending on trailer brands I looked at they come with Dexter or Rockwell American axles. The 10k trailers had cross members on 16" centers/heavier flooring/more sidewall studs/etc.

When looking at the different trailer brands and sizes go under and check out frames/axle sizes (brakes)/cross members/out riggers and sidewall framing construction. There is a difference.

And don't forget brands can be marketed in one area of our country and not in another.

My Aluma 81" x 15' was $4500.
I considered an enclosed but didn't get one.
I've had several open utility trailers and wanted no more of annual painting and replacing floorboards.
And...this is my last trailer. Buying quality for the kids to inherit. LOL

I chose a slightly more expensive model to get a thicker/taller frame and stringers that are closer together and not just because it had the torsion axles I wanted. I could have bought a lighter 7000 lb trailer that would have been marginal for what I carry, but I doubt it would have held up as well as the model I selected. I put 6-8K miles on mine each year while loaded at 6-8k lbs. I had also heard of the less expensive trailers made in the southern states and how some of them actually have shimmy and shake as you tow them.

Next Spring, I will be replacing the tires for the second time which means I am averaging about 4 years and 30k miles on one set. The last time, I upgraded the LRD ST225/75R15 tires to LRE hoping to get a little more wear life out them, but they look like they will last about same - At least I didn't pay much more for the higher rating. I'm considering looking for a 15" LT tire that might fit but am not sure if going 6-lug 16" rims and tires would work out financially with any better tire longevity.

Reality Check wrote:


KT, you're just an irritant at times. No doubt I have a complete lack of reality...never done a **** thing and know nothing about anything. I just pale in your spotlight of wisdom. Seriously, why does anyone even offer any thoughts about anything since you have every subject under the sun covered.

Would you happen to have arguments for the dispute, that I could answer to?

jimh425 wrote:
I don’t think all trailers are the same. There are a few brands that are pretty good though. So, instead of just buying “any” trailer, buy one that has a track record even if you buy a used one.

Per my experience any brand can have excelent models and OPss...
Being mechanically-inclined I am strong believer in personal inspections.
For example, some of the pictures show trailers having siding with screws/rivets as much as 3-4 feet apart. That can't be good.
In cargo trailers sheeting is load-bearing and need to be properly fastened to do so.
Than there are small things you can't even imagine. On my V-nose the nose had shiny diamond plate. The plate mirrored the traffic and I could not stand it, so replaced it with black plastic.

Grit dog wrote:
Realitycheck, I've seen you Summer S ucks trailer before! True words there!

SOrt of agree with both RC and Kayteg, and you guys agree too, to a point, a trailer is a trailer. Only thing to go wrong is lights, bearings brakes and tires.
There are "some" trailers with a bad rap though for structural issues. Mirage for example.
If you look at a trailer, and the welds look good and the floor doesn't bounce between stringers, it should be solid.

^^^ this

Kayteg1 wrote:

Reality Check wrote:
A $3k trailer is just that...it will pull and keep stuff covered, but I wouldn't be putting a bunch of heavy point load items in there.

Shows lack of reality here.
All trailers will have the same axles, who are manufactured in only couple locations in US. All of them will have the same door latches, hinges, vents and door locks.
All trailers will have strong frame as steel is cheap and no manufacturer will take chances with structural undersized.
What cheaper trailer will have are thinner outside sheeting, less inside ties and probably some poorly torqued screws.
I drove my 5000 lb convertible inside $3000 trailer just fine. Enough said.
My impression is that trailers are build by the same labor TC are.
Whatever farm-boy is available in the area - he's got the job.

KT, you're just an irritant at times. No doubt I have a complete lack of reality...never done a **** thing and know nothing about anything. I just pale in your spotlight of wisdom. Seriously, why does anyone even offer any thoughts about anything since you have every subject under the sun covered.

I don’t think all trailers are the same. There are a few brands that are pretty good though. So, instead of just buying “any” trailer, buy one that has a track record even if you buy a used one.

Realitycheck, I've seen you Summer S ucks trailer before! True words there!

SOrt of agree with both RC and Kayteg, and you guys agree too, to a point, a trailer is a trailer. Only thing to go wrong is lights, bearings brakes and tires.
There are "some" trailers with a bad rap though for structural issues. Mirage for example.
If you look at a trailer, and the welds look good and the floor doesn't bounce between stringers, it should be solid.

Reality Check wrote:
A $3k trailer is just that...it will pull and keep stuff covered, but I wouldn't be putting a bunch of heavy point load items in there.

Shows lack of reality here.
All trailers will have the same axles, who are manufactured in only couple locations in US. All of them will have the same door latches, hinges, vents and door locks.
All trailers will have strong frame as steel is cheap and no manufacturer will take chances with structural undersized.
What cheaper trailer will have are thinner outside sheeting, less inside ties and probably some poorly torqued screws.
I drove my 5000 lb convertible inside $3000 trailer just fine. Enough said.
My impression is that trailers are build by the same labor TC are.
Whatever farm-boy is available in the area - he's got the job.

I'll have to run with another thought here... I personally don't think the minor differences in the trailers between most of the manufacturers is a big enough issue to completely direct my direction in purchases. I'll grant that some are 'better' in certain ways, but there is no way I could definitively decide that one had a greater value longevity wise over another. With that...please keep in mind, I'm not buying the cheapest of the models. There is a point where the flooring stringers are so far apart, thinner plywood, etc, where they just can't hold up to anything beyond a mattress. A $3k trailer is just that...it will pull and keep stuff covered, but I wouldn't be putting a bunch of heavy point load items in there.

Currently, we have new Cargomate and Continental Cargo trailers, a Haulmark, a Wells, a Pace, a Mirage and some commercial cubes. I've owned several others, including Interstate. Add our flatbed equipment trailers and other various types of trailers, and wheels, axles, frames, etc, are obviously well known to me. My point is, I get to compare them all, hence my less than pointed opinion about where to look.

I don't like 14" tires, so they're not an option. We're almost entirely 16", but that is not a viable option on a light duty trailer (brutal ride and overkill) so we do have some that have 15". Almost all the axles are minimum 5k, and although I love torsion for lot's of things, they suck for replacement. Not the work, that's easy. But around here, they are almost 100% custom, so your trailer is down for the 6 - 10 weeks while waiting for a replacement. Ask me if if enters into our decision on which to buy? Pretty much never.

Doors are doors, the skins are all super light and flimsy. But they keep the elements off the stuff. We have both ramp and cargo units; they all serve a purpose.

I've never seen anyone complain about having an extra few feet, so with that, if you think you need 16', get the 20. The difference in towing is not even worth thinking about. When you get up into 28, 30 and 32'....it can something you have to deal with and plan for (gas stations, etc).

We extend most or our hitches.. they tow better, jack better and lessen the chance of connecting (turning 90 degrees on flat isn't the problem...do that with the truck on an incline and you'll find out that the camper is a whole lot closer than you thought).