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Cargo Trailer Shopping

SoonDockin
Explorer II
Explorer II
Shopping for a cargo trailer to house my 6 to 7 foot wide (depending on tires) side by side.

I am looking at 8.5 wide so lengths start at 16ft. I find a few at 18ft and more at 20. I don't need the extra length and know towing shorter is easier in tight spaces.

I have a torklift cannon rated at 6600lbs with a weight distro hitch. Am I wrong thinking the lighter shorter trailer (of similar quality) will tow better? I am looking at Interstate Loadrunners locally and a Wells Cargo a days drive away.
2022 Ram Laramie 5500 60" CA New pic soon
2018 Arctic Fox 1140 Dry Bath
Sold 2019 Ford F450 King Ranch (was a very nice truck)
30 REPLIES 30

JIMNLIN
Explorer
Explorer
Reality Check wrote:

A $3k trailer is just that...it will pull and keep stuff covered, but I wouldn't be putting a bunch of heavy point load items in there.
Excellent point.
We used cargo trailers as tool trailers when I had my small construction company. These trailers were moved in a 8 state area to different construction work sites. My first one was a 7k GVWR trailer with 14" tires. Every trailer I bought with 13"/14" I upgraded to 15" or 16" P tires. I found them to last 35k-45k miles at max axles loads.
I found taller tires roll over obstacles/potholes/curbs/etc easier than shorter tires.
WE learned a lot with this trailer.
As business grew we needed more tool trailers with more robust axle/frames so I moved on up to 10k trailers. Depending on trailer brands I looked at they come with Dexter or Rockwell American axles. The 10k trailers had cross members on 16" centers/heavier flooring/more sidewall studs/etc.

When looking at the different trailer brands and sizes go under and check out frames/axle sizes (brakes)/cross members/out riggers and sidewall framing construction. There is a difference.

And don't forget brands can be marketed in one area of our country and not in another.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 two slides

TxGearhead
Explorer II
Explorer II
My Aluma 81" x 15' was $4500.
I considered an enclosed but didn't get one.
I've had several open utility trailers and wanted no more of annual painting and replacing floorboards.
And...this is my last trailer. Buying quality for the kids to inherit. LOL
2018 Ram 3500 CC LB DRW 4X4 Cummins Aisin Laramie Pearl White
2018 Landmark Oshkosh
2008 Bigfoot 25C9.4
2014 NauticStar 21 ShallowBay 150HP Yamaha
2016 GoDevil 18X44 35HP Surface Drive

Bedlam
Moderator
Moderator
I chose a slightly more expensive model to get a thicker/taller frame and stringers that are closer together and not just because it had the torsion axles I wanted. I could have bought a lighter 7000 lb trailer that would have been marginal for what I carry, but I doubt it would have held up as well as the model I selected. I put 6-8K miles on mine each year while loaded at 6-8k lbs. I had also heard of the less expensive trailers made in the southern states and how some of them actually have shimmy and shake as you tow them.

Next Spring, I will be replacing the tires for the second time which means I am averaging about 4 years and 30k miles on one set. The last time, I upgraded the LRD ST225/75R15 tires to LRE hoping to get a little more wear life out them, but they look like they will last about same - At least I didn't pay much more for the higher rating. I'm considering looking for a 15" LT tire that might fit but am not sure if going 6-lug 16" rims and tires would work out financially with any better tire longevity.

Host Mammoth 11.5 on Ram 5500 HD

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Reality Check wrote:


KT, you're just an irritant at times. No doubt I have a complete lack of reality...never done a **** thing and know nothing about anything. I just pale in your spotlight of wisdom. Seriously, why does anyone even offer any thoughts about anything since you have every subject under the sun covered.


Would you happen to have arguments for the dispute, that I could answer to?

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
jimh425 wrote:
I donโ€™t think all trailers are the same. There are a few brands that are pretty good though. So, instead of just buying โ€œanyโ€ trailer, buy one that has a track record even if you buy a used one.


Per my experience any brand can have excelent models and OPss...
Being mechanically-inclined I am strong believer in personal inspections.
For example, some of the pictures show trailers having siding with screws/rivets as much as 3-4 feet apart. That can't be good.
In cargo trailers sheeting is load-bearing and need to be properly fastened to do so.
Than there are small things you can't even imagine. On my V-nose the nose had shiny diamond plate. The plate mirrored the traffic and I could not stand it, so replaced it with black plastic.

Reality_Check
Nomad II
Nomad II
Grit dog wrote:
Realitycheck, I've seen you Summer S ucks trailer before! True words there!

SOrt of agree with both RC and Kayteg, and you guys agree too, to a point, a trailer is a trailer. Only thing to go wrong is lights, bearings brakes and tires.
There are "some" trailers with a bad rap though for structural issues. Mirage for example.
If you look at a trailer, and the welds look good and the floor doesn't bounce between stringers, it should be solid.


^^^ this

Kayteg1 wrote:
Reality Check wrote:
A $3k trailer is just that...it will pull and keep stuff covered, but I wouldn't be putting a bunch of heavy point load items in there.


Shows lack of reality here.
All trailers will have the same axles, who are manufactured in only couple locations in US. All of them will have the same door latches, hinges, vents and door locks.
All trailers will have strong frame as steel is cheap and no manufacturer will take chances with structural undersized.
What cheaper trailer will have are thinner outside sheeting, less inside ties and probably some poorly torqued screws.
I drove my 5000 lb convertible inside $3000 trailer just fine. Enough said.
My impression is that trailers are build by the same labor TC are.
Whatever farm-boy is available in the area - he's got the job.


KT, you're just an irritant at times. No doubt I have a complete lack of reality...never done a **** thing and know nothing about anything. I just pale in your spotlight of wisdom. Seriously, why does anyone even offer any thoughts about anything since you have every subject under the sun covered.
'16 F550 CC, 4x4 with Link Ultraride air suspension, '18 AF 1150. Just so we can play with our snowmobiles, dirt bikes and fishing boat. And new 20' tag along...kayaks, bikes, mc's and extra water and food!!

jimh406
Explorer III
Explorer III
I donโ€™t think all trailers are the same. There are a few brands that are pretty good though. So, instead of just buying โ€œanyโ€ trailer, buy one that has a track record even if you buy a used one.

'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.

NRA Life Member, CCA Life Member

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
Realitycheck, I've seen you Summer S ucks trailer before! True words there!

SOrt of agree with both RC and Kayteg, and you guys agree too, to a point, a trailer is a trailer. Only thing to go wrong is lights, bearings brakes and tires.
There are "some" trailers with a bad rap though for structural issues. Mirage for example.
If you look at a trailer, and the welds look good and the floor doesn't bounce between stringers, it should be solid.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Reality Check wrote:
A $3k trailer is just that...it will pull and keep stuff covered, but I wouldn't be putting a bunch of heavy point load items in there.


Shows lack of reality here.
All trailers will have the same axles, who are manufactured in only couple locations in US. All of them will have the same door latches, hinges, vents and door locks.
All trailers will have strong frame as steel is cheap and no manufacturer will take chances with structural undersized.
What cheaper trailer will have are thinner outside sheeting, less inside ties and probably some poorly torqued screws.
I drove my 5000 lb convertible inside $3000 trailer just fine. Enough said.
My impression is that trailers are build by the same labor TC are.
Whatever farm-boy is available in the area - he's got the job.

Reality_Check
Nomad II
Nomad II
I'll have to run with another thought here... I personally don't think the minor differences in the trailers between most of the manufacturers is a big enough issue to completely direct my direction in purchases. I'll grant that some are 'better' in certain ways, but there is no way I could definitively decide that one had a greater value longevity wise over another. With that...please keep in mind, I'm not buying the cheapest of the models. There is a point where the flooring stringers are so far apart, thinner plywood, etc, where they just can't hold up to anything beyond a mattress. A $3k trailer is just that...it will pull and keep stuff covered, but I wouldn't be putting a bunch of heavy point load items in there.

Currently, we have new Cargomate and Continental Cargo trailers, a Haulmark, a Wells, a Pace, a Mirage and some commercial cubes. I've owned several others, including Interstate. Add our flatbed equipment trailers and other various types of trailers, and wheels, axles, frames, etc, are obviously well known to me. My point is, I get to compare them all, hence my less than pointed opinion about where to look.

I don't like 14" tires, so they're not an option. We're almost entirely 16", but that is not a viable option on a light duty trailer (brutal ride and overkill) so we do have some that have 15". Almost all the axles are minimum 5k, and although I love torsion for lot's of things, they suck for replacement. Not the work, that's easy. But around here, they are almost 100% custom, so your trailer is down for the 6 - 10 weeks while waiting for a replacement. Ask me if if enters into our decision on which to buy? Pretty much never.

Doors are doors, the skins are all super light and flimsy. But they keep the elements off the stuff. We have both ramp and cargo units; they all serve a purpose.

I've never seen anyone complain about having an extra few feet, so with that, if you think you need 16', get the 20. The difference in towing is not even worth thinking about. When you get up into 28, 30 and 32'....it can something you have to deal with and plan for (gas stations, etc).

We extend most or our hitches.. they tow better, jack better and lessen the chance of connecting (turning 90 degrees on flat isn't the problem...do that with the truck on an incline and you'll find out that the camper is a whole lot closer than you thought).





'16 F550 CC, 4x4 with Link Ultraride air suspension, '18 AF 1150. Just so we can play with our snowmobiles, dirt bikes and fishing boat. And new 20' tag along...kayaks, bikes, mc's and extra water and food!!

towpro
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 7x14 dual axle V nose "Georgia" trailer (but it came from a VA dealer), the type they warn you about.
in first year I found some of the screws that mount the side metal loose, and the metal skin started to crack along an edge at these loose screw holes because of vibration.

I ended up putting large plastic washers under these 5 or 6 screws where the side cracked. Then I stated putting real miles on the trailer running it between PA and FL and this seam split open. I quick stop for some white gorilla tape, remove those screws, tape up the joint, and put screws back in so far has lasted 1500 miles. The trailer shop wants $500 to replace this side piece but I am done with the trailer now so I will sell it and let the next guy fix it.

But I still like the trailer, just check know to check the screws and don't wait to see the side loose to check.

I also have a newer Wells Cargo 5x8 single axle v-nose, and between you and me I don't see an difference between the 2 trailers, maybe the wells cargo has more screws that did not hit studs.

I notice the better trailer now have glued skin and not screws to hold it on.

Somethign else to think about is vision in mirrors.

The 7x14 has fenders on outside so its wide, but with my dually I can see the trailer in my mirror.

my Wellscargo I can't see it behind my truck without video camera
2022 Ford F150
Sold: 2016 Arctic Fox 990, 2018 Ram 3500, 2011 Open Range
Sold Forest River Forester 2401R Mercedes Benz. when campsites went from $90 to $190 per night.

Starpig
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 12' Interstate that I use to haul my large model aircraft. I have studied lots of different brands of trailers over the years and I am convinced that Interstate trailers are the best over the long haul. I am looking to get a wide and tall 14'-16' Interstate built to replace my current trailer and I will not consider any other brands. PERIOD.

SoonDockin
Explorer II
Explorer II
The Interstate Loadrunner has a longer warranty. The one I linked is taller that a basic unit. The basic 8.5 x 16 from them can be had for close to $5000.
2022 Ram Laramie 5500 60" CA New pic soon
2018 Arctic Fox 1140 Dry Bath
Sold 2019 Ford F450 King Ranch (was a very nice truck)

markowwes
Explorer
Explorer
I have an H & H car hauler, all kinds of head room, torsion axles no springs, when you get the car hauler they have a heavier ramp door and are a little wider. we are happy with it.